Gov. Spring Install how too....
#1
Gov. Spring Install how too....
Done LOTS of torque plate installs, but got an ATS Gov. spring kit here and this is a new thing to me. I have been told its no big deal but i like to get some info before i tackle it. Thanks!
Dan
Dan
#2
Dan,
I have installed 3 sets of the 3k Gov springs so far. And all 3 times I have went right down thru the throat of the pump. It takes a little longer but I didnt like the idea of the oil coming out of the side of the pump if you install them thru the side.
I made a tool to get the cam'd nut off the top of the spring cap and I also had a strong mechanic mag. to move the springs around. Here is a set of instructions that I found.
Rick
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/GovSpring.htm
I have installed 3 sets of the 3k Gov springs so far. And all 3 times I have went right down thru the throat of the pump. It takes a little longer but I didnt like the idea of the oil coming out of the side of the pump if you install them thru the side.
I made a tool to get the cam'd nut off the top of the spring cap and I also had a strong mechanic mag. to move the springs around. Here is a set of instructions that I found.
Rick
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/GovSpring.htm
#3
I just put my second set of Gov springs in and I have in gone in from the sides both times. It is quite easy to do. Just be sure to take the measurement before you take the old springs off. I had a hard time getting mine adjusted right but I was not able to take the stock measurement. You should have no problem.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#5
Even with getting them set exactly like the stock springs...I still had to up the idle about 1 full turn on the idle bolt. I used a set of Venier calipers that I got from Sears and measured the amount that the stuff stuck thru the nut and I used that measurement when I put it back together...
I dont remember what the results are if you get them too tight...but I do know what I have to do when they go back using the same measurements as the stock ones..
rick
I dont remember what the results are if you get them too tight...but I do know what I have to do when they go back using the same measurements as the stock ones..
rick
#6
To Tight and idle will be high. Be careful not to put them back in too tight. You may need to adjust them once or twice to get the best results possible. I have adjusted mine several times and I am getting ready to do them again. Everyone I have talked to has said that a good number to start with is about .050 but if you can set them to what the staock measurement was.
#7
I try to set mine to between 42-50k..but with measuring them and putting them back to stock...all you should do is up the idle.
Mine has been in since October and have not touched them! The other 3 trucks have not been touched either and working great!
Rick
Mine has been in since October and have not touched them! The other 3 trucks have not been touched either and working great!
Rick
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#8
Whos not to say that one cant count the turns to set it up back where it was stock. Then back it off as needed, record the number of turns and post it on here when he is done! Would that not work? Or is it hard to actually see what you are doing and when the nut lets go of the threads? Guess i am about to find out! Thanks for the replies!
#9
When Piers taught me how to install the springs...I ask him that question...He said that it is easier to measure them first. The clicks does not always work. Sometimes you dont hear or feel the clicks.
The caliper is about $7 @ Sears and this way you know exactly how much to tighten the nut...
Rick
The caliper is about $7 @ Sears and this way you know exactly how much to tighten the nut...
Rick
#12
Thanks to all that helped with the info. Got the springs in and works great! WOW does it wind out fast! This is what i did...i differed a little from what was said. I didn’t want to pony up the dough for a good caliper... so i got a cheepie. Needless to say it was junk and didn’t work. SO I just marked the nut with a paint pin and referenced it on the washer and housing. (Get the oil off as best as you can, paint will not stick well…be gentle on the nut not to knock off the paint.) Just back off the nut and count the turns. I got exactly 6. Did the springs and put the nut back on. Counted 6 and the nut lined up right back to the same place. (While I had the nut off, I center punched it and repainted it to make it clearer) Put all the stuff back on and fired it up. Worked and idled just fine. It just slams up to 3000 now! Wow….lots more responsive and pulls hard to 3000. If I got to adjust it, ill use the reference marks to go up or down. But I don’t think I will have to. Thanks again.
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03-13-2006 07:46 PM