strokerace

I was crawling around my truck the other day and noticed a streak of oil coming from underneath the filter box. I investigated a little further and found oil on the filter so I removed the intake hose and found oil there too. I pulled the hose off the turbo and I have alot of play in the wheel and a definite oil leak. I've always wanted to upgrade and I guess now is as good of time as any. Well, I've been cruising around here as well as several other websites trying to find some info. I have come to the conclusion that theres alot of choices, it's enough to confuse a guy. The way I have my truck set up right now is nothing special, the timing was bumped and the plate was ground, I couldnt tell you everything exactly because the previous owner did it all. I just got out of school and have student loans and other bills coming at me so I cant get to crazy here but i've been working and have a little stashed away in the "cummins fund". I live and work on a farm and occasionally haul some pretty heavy loads and plan to do more to my truck as funds allow so I need to have enough turbo to handle that. I was kinda curious what some of you guys had and what you liked or disliked? Second to buying the truck in the first place this is a pretty big purchase for me so I wanna make sure I know what I'm getting into. Thanks

Ronco95

Strokerace, you seem to have a good stock truck platform to work with. With that in mind, lemme say that alot of turbos are built or modified to work with modified engines. I have the same basic truck with a WH1C stock turbo and maybe more fueling than you have. I made 309 H.P. on that turbo and can do better if I choose.

Point is, look around for a stock replacement to serve your needs or consider having yours rebushed with new seals and anything else a remanufacturer recommends within reason. You really cannot put a turbo on there that will work well with current mods and support alot more fuel in the future. You end up with a turbo that has too much lag now and you will hate it.

If you have an external leak, it sounds like the drain tube gasket on the bottom of the turbo maybe the problem. That is a 5 dollar fix and a good learning project to give you confidence for more later.

Believe me, this is an expensive toy as you add power. You have to add parts to transfer that power to the ground reliably.

Fact is, with much more power, your next clutch may cost $600 plus your labor. So, don't be too quick to add more power without a handful of dead presidents to support that power.

Big turbo on a stock truck = lag and no fun and loss of low end power.

I hope that helps.

cumminsdriver635

An HX40 with a 16cm housing is a great towing/playing turbo for a truck with between 300-450hp IMO. There are better turbo's out there, but if you do it right, you can pick up an HX40 for around $300-400 compared to an SPS62 or equivalent at about $1400. You cant go too big and still be able to haul heavy loads without keeping an eye on the pyro, but the HX40 is pretty comparable to the stock turbo hauling a load, but will support a decent bit more when playing around. I have a valet switch which cuts my power back to, id guess 260hp or so. My HX40 is still plenty driveable at that level, and max EGT's are around 1200* as long as you dont lug it too bad.

That said, an HX35 is a darn good turbo for anything 300hp or less. Mine would max out at about 1300* with id guess about 300hp, and was pretty hard to beat. The only reason I switched to my HX40 is because my HX35 was dying, and i needed something pretty quick, and I ran up on this HX40 for cheap with a downpipe. Pretty happy with the switch so far, and id guess im around 360hp.

kantdrive55

When you have oil on the intake side of the turbo that is usually a sign of restriction through either a dirty air filter or a filter just not being able to flow enough air. The turbo wont just leak oil out the compressor side. If there is a restriction there it creates almost a vacuum that will pull oil out and through the compressor side of the turbo. Also a little side to side play is normal in a turbo. When you see it touching the housing that is when it is no good. When the truck isn't running the oil that is normally around all the bearings isn't there. This allows the wheel to move a fair amount. Now in and out movement is no good. That is a sign that the thrust bearings are going. I would hate to see you replace a turbo because of a dirty air filter.

Now if you do need a turbo upgrade we have our Super B turbo available. It is going to have great throttle response when towing, and still flow a large amount of air to keep the egts down. This turbo on a 12v will support 450hp which gives you a fair amount of room to grow from where you are. If you are towing a fair amount of weight and towing often don't go to the HX40 charger. These have a lot of turbo lag. When they finally spool up the come on strong, just not great for towing. They also have a fairly weak shaft that tends to break if you let off the throttle too quickly. They also have a very narrow efficiency range. They were supposed to be on the bigger medium duty application vehicles which never really saw more than about 2200rpm.

Hope this helps.

strokerace

Thanks guys, that gives me some things to think about. I was wondering would a turbo from a 01' 24 valve fit on my truck? There is a guy just down the road from me who wrecked his truck and is now parting it out. I thought if I could pick it up off him for a few dollars that would get me going for now until someday when I can upgrade everything else. I would like to go bigger but if I do one thing then I have another and another and its probably best for me to use my money to get my student loans paid off right now.

bridleman

My opinion and it is just mine .......is to call as many turbo mechanic shops out there and ask there opinion, the obvious problem with calling HTT,II, or any of the turbo shops is that they are all going to try to sell you "their" turbo! The best thing is to call some guys that I have been real happy with and have giving me good info:

Nathan Wright- Maximized performance

Tim Barber -TRE

Tim's turbos

Majestic turbos

Rip Rook - Source Automotive


These are just a few I am sure some guys have many more out there but please don't go off of what the retail guys have to say, they are there to sell you a turbo..........period!

Just my experience as of lately.

Mike Holmen

The HX-35 from down the road will work good. If its cheap give it a shot. You have almost nothing to lose. HX-40 are good turbo and there are lots of different set-ups. Some work well, some don't and the best part, they are cheap.

heykw

I have a turbo from a 01 on my 98 and it works great.

cumminsdriver635

If it is an automatic and has an HY35, its not that good, but if its a stick shift, then it will have an HX35, and you are good to go. The HY35 will work, its just got a small exhaust housing and smaller compressor.

My HX40 isnt that laggy. I can have 10psi by 1200rpm by rolling into the throttle as the charger is lighting in 3rd or overdrive, and it is making 36-38psi(max) at 1600rpm. Really not much laggier than a stock one.

kantdrive55

The only thing to be careful with is to make sure it isnt the HY35 turbo off an automatic. It has a very small exhaust housing and with a 12v you could run into egt problems. If it is the manual tranny you would be fine.

strokerace

Luckily the guys truck was a manual so I should be alright there. What is a good price for one of these? Also the truck had 140k on it when he wrecked it.

Mike Holmen

Used turbo, if its in good shape around $150 area. Check for carboning up and end float on the turbo. Check for FOD damage on the compressor and turbine. If the truck was stock, it shouldn't be in to bad a shape. You can always sell it if you don't like it.

A new HX-40 is around $400 to $500, if you know where to look.

Grider Pirate

I PM'd you. Do you happen to know if the '01 engine is good?