gonna start building a pulling truck
#16
well im not gonna be putting out over $1k for injectors. an off the shelf injector will do for now. i dont wanna call this a budget build because everyone knows big hp diesel arent cheap, but im not doing a full billet bottom end, billet cam, stoopid pump, custom tuned build either. 600-700hp is not "easy" to get by any means, but when i can run basically any big turbo because spool and smoke dont matter, and i can add as much fuel/timing needed to make it run good with the sled because it wont be seeing the street.
it doesnt have to be a fine tuned minimal smoke street motor, i basically want a 4500rpm, 700hp 300' at a time motor. the kind that as it spools on the line it makes everyone smile and hair on your arms stand up, at least thats the way i felt when i saw my first pro-mod/pro street puller run.
in the future if i decide to build a better motor and go for 900-1000 hp or something crazy then i can get into custom stuff.
it doesnt have to be a fine tuned minimal smoke street motor, i basically want a 4500rpm, 700hp 300' at a time motor. the kind that as it spools on the line it makes everyone smile and hair on your arms stand up, at least thats the way i felt when i saw my first pro-mod/pro street puller run.
in the future if i decide to build a better motor and go for 900-1000 hp or something crazy then i can get into custom stuff.
#17
what would be needed to hold this motor together at 4500rpms?
studs on the bottom end?? special pistons??
i know it will need better springs with the cam, and there will need to be some cooling system mods to keep the water pressure down.
give me some more info on the pump work. what afc mods and plate would be used, what about delivery valves, what timing should i run? this stuff is all new to me. like i said tho, the good thing here is it can smoke like a train at idle, smoke like crazy at WOT, take forever to spool etc because its not gonna see the street.
studs on the bottom end?? special pistons??
i know it will need better springs with the cam, and there will need to be some cooling system mods to keep the water pressure down.
give me some more info on the pump work. what afc mods and plate would be used, what about delivery valves, what timing should i run? this stuff is all new to me. like i said tho, the good thing here is it can smoke like a train at idle, smoke like crazy at WOT, take forever to spool etc because its not gonna see the street.
#18
Studded bottom end, main girdle, head studs, HD valve springs, upgraded keepers and retainers. Also, make sure you add a couple breathers on the engine...at higher RP they like to push oil out if you don't have enough ventilation!
Clip the fins on the water pump, or buy a kit from EEP or Haisley!
Gut the AFC...you don't need it, and most likely it will keep you from getting full rack travel. Timing will be +30*...some of the big guys run near 50*, but 30-32* should be plenty for what your planning! DV's---big!!
Chris
Clip the fins on the water pump, or buy a kit from EEP or Haisley!
Gut the AFC...you don't need it, and most likely it will keep you from getting full rack travel. Timing will be +30*...some of the big guys run near 50*, but 30-32* should be plenty for what your planning! DV's---big!!
Chris
#23
II dragon flows or dragon flys as well for injectors.. Just something to think about...
Rick
#24
if you get a 94-95 12v you are going to have to ditch the pump or get it built by a pump shop the 94-95 have smaller barrells and plungers. i think your going to have a tough time finding a 94-98 12v for $4000 that still runs. i do know where one is, my friend just bought a 94 with 275mi for $3000 5spd long bed reg cab. and the body is in decent shape to use as a plow truck. but i have intentions of swindelling that one off of him in a couple years.
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