gonna start building a pulling truck
#1
gonna start building a pulling truck
well with the overtime picking up, side work picking up, and my garage getting cleaned out, im thinking of starting a new project. im gonna be looking for a beat to heck, rusted up old 12v farm truck. gotta be a 5spd with a dana 80. the truck will not be driven on the street, so its gonna have a big turbo and big clutch with lots of fuel. im looking to be making in the 700hp range and 4500rpms but like i said, it doesnt need to be streetable.
here is my plans for it
-pull the head and possibly the motor to freshen things up, make sure kdp is done, cylinder walls are good etc. no bad bearings
-have the head completely done, or buy a ported head with fire rings and reinstall with studs
-helix 3 competition only cam
-run something big like an S400, ht3b, ht60 etc single charger, no filter, no headlight
-have the stock pump worked over, go with some nice 435's, or DD4 injectors, delivery valves, etc to get alot of fuel thru it.
-interior will be gutted except drivers seat and possibly thinking of a hand throttle
-tranny will either be a 4500 with billet 1 3/8" input or my old NV5600 thats getting rebuilt
-gonna keep dana 60/80 combo but both will get lockers, and possibly some large 37 spline shafts in the rear
-t-case will be the 241 until it breaks then i'll either build it stronger or go to a 271
-it will get a big weight box, blocked rear suspension, and big traction bars
lots of other things will be done along the way but its gonna be almost all done by me. other than the machine work on the head and maybe some pump work.
right now i'll be looking for the donor truck, but once i find it ill be asking lots of questions. i know alot of 24v's but not much about 12v's
here is my plans for it
-pull the head and possibly the motor to freshen things up, make sure kdp is done, cylinder walls are good etc. no bad bearings
-have the head completely done, or buy a ported head with fire rings and reinstall with studs
-helix 3 competition only cam
-run something big like an S400, ht3b, ht60 etc single charger, no filter, no headlight
-have the stock pump worked over, go with some nice 435's, or DD4 injectors, delivery valves, etc to get alot of fuel thru it.
-interior will be gutted except drivers seat and possibly thinking of a hand throttle
-tranny will either be a 4500 with billet 1 3/8" input or my old NV5600 thats getting rebuilt
-gonna keep dana 60/80 combo but both will get lockers, and possibly some large 37 spline shafts in the rear
-t-case will be the 241 until it breaks then i'll either build it stronger or go to a 271
-it will get a big weight box, blocked rear suspension, and big traction bars
lots of other things will be done along the way but its gonna be almost all done by me. other than the machine work on the head and maybe some pump work.
right now i'll be looking for the donor truck, but once i find it ill be asking lots of questions. i know alot of 24v's but not much about 12v's
#4
im looking for a high mileage, maybe wrecked 4x4 cummins truck, i dont wanna cut or strip too nice of a truck.
i figure if i can find a junker for maybe $4k, sell off the stuff i dont need and make some money back, i can prolly get the truck running for about $12k
most of the money will be in the tires, clutch, cam and head/pumpwork. all the other stuff ill be doing myself. i already have the 5600, and a spare t-case (241 or 271), turbos that big can be had for around $600 since im not going top of line out of the box here. all the fab work i can do at my buddy's shop and he can get me all the free steel i need.
i figure if i can find a junker for maybe $4k, sell off the stuff i dont need and make some money back, i can prolly get the truck running for about $12k
most of the money will be in the tires, clutch, cam and head/pumpwork. all the other stuff ill be doing myself. i already have the 5600, and a spare t-case (241 or 271), turbos that big can be had for around $600 since im not going top of line out of the box here. all the fab work i can do at my buddy's shop and he can get me all the free steel i need.
#5
We're looking for a 1st gen to campaign on the strip next season - saw one today ('92) decent condition, runs fine and a good driver for $4500... only 220K miles, so break-in period is over!
#7
I'd say you have a good plan so far, I would use the NV5600 you have already, more gearing choices and already has a 1 and 3/8" input shaft. Read my post in your other thread in the Competition forum for sources to getting some of your stuff...
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#9
it will be a slow build because i still have some debt to pay off, and parts will come only as i can afford them.
im not worried about the interior, its getting stripped and i will be running in unlimited classes where i dont need interior stuff.
still debating on running a p-pump motor with a 24v head. not sure if the cost will be worth it tho.
im not worried about the interior, its getting stripped and i will be running in unlimited classes where i dont need interior stuff.
still debating on running a p-pump motor with a 24v head. not sure if the cost will be worth it tho.
#11
if it stays a true 12v it will get DD4's of the new era 435's
if i do a 24v head with p-pump then i will start to look into injector design when i get to that part.
right now i just need to find me a wrecked donor.
if i do a 24v head with p-pump then i will start to look into injector design when i get to that part.
right now i just need to find me a wrecked donor.
#12
#14
How about this one????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...QQcmdZViewItem
Lots of stuff you don't need, but you can part that stuff out for extra cash
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...QQcmdZViewItem
Lots of stuff you don't need, but you can part that stuff out for extra cash
#15
I don't think the switch to a 24v head would be worth it, if it was more people would do it. IMO Don't stick to an "off the shelf" injector, either get DonM to make something that will let you run much higher timing or see if New Era can. Some other injector shops can also do this too. Also see if you can find a 160 pump and have it worked over using a 215 pumps cam, a 160 doesn't retard the timing at a certain piont of rack travel like a 215 does.