HOHN

True, and most pumps with a gerotor design will, too.

So what *I* would do is this:

Gerotor Walbro GSL 394:
http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...hp?productid=8

I'd recommend an inlet screen, so you put a 100mic cleanable stainless screen in front of it. LIke one of these:


Then I'd invest in a quality bypass regulator, also from Aeromotive. The carb-range bypass regulator for Marine applications is tough to beat:


From the regulator, I'd plumb it to the stock filter canister and such on the supply side.


On the return side of the regulator, I'd plumb in a high-flow 2 mic filter. The Glacier Diesel kit from DynoMite diesel is perfect for this:


With this setup, you'd have all the fuel you could ever need for a street truck, and you'd have continuous recirculation and re-filtration of the fuel at the 2 micron level. SUPER CLEAN fuel!

JMO

2500superram

i just finished my vulcan big line kit.i thought i was relocating my LP,but it ended up having this instead.i guess my 02 truck has an in-tank pump?

would they bolt this stupid thing on there from the factory?i'd rather have the line go straight to the fuel filter housing,2 less banjo bolt's

pgcountycop

I'm getting the Glacier for my next mod. Can't wait.

HOHN

2500superram-- that doesn't appear to me an OEM piece to me at all.

It looks like a LP relocation kit has already been installed, or someone just decided an LP wasn't necessary.

Keep in mind that the reason the LP is installed on these trucks is for priming-- that's it. The factory was considering having no LP at all (like another VP44 application), but they didn't want Dodge customers to have to use a manual primer bulb, so they installed the pump.

It's tempting to go back to a manual bulb and let the VP do its own "lifting."

1BAD4X4

Since I first got my truck I've never completely been sure as to what my LP system is. As I've posted before, I have low numbers, 8 at idle, 6 at cruise, and 4 at WOT... but there has never been any inconsistentcies in fuel pressure. Supposedly my dad works with a guy who some how knows the truck and claims its had the in-tank LP done. Does anyone have pictures of the OEM LP on the block in its original spot as from the factory? Atleast that could give me an idea of wether or not I'm on the stock LP... then I could go from there.

Russ Roth

Not any kind of problem. I think that's why most of us are here, to help or discuss different issues in some manner. I have a 30 micron screen filter before the Walbro. You don't want to restrict the intake side with too fine of a filter.

MSquare

I have the full FASS system. It's been on for a year and has performed as advertised.

My "ultimate" would be an aftermarket cam and 12V mechanical pump. Not a P-pump. Fishing2Deep has this setup and is very happy with it.

Marty

2500superram

thanks russ.i'm not sure what to do yet with mine now.i just discovered my truck has an in-tank pump.it does have low number's like what 1bad4x4 just posted.the truck runs so much better with the big line kit.it seems quieter and has a touchy gas pedal.i wish i had my gauge before the big line,to see if the pressure was different.i was also thinking about changing the fuel filter,maybe the pressure will come up a bit.i'm learning a little at a time and just discovered my truck has an edge ez on it.i wish i could contact the previous owner and ask him about the truck

tenbrooks

Just buy a walbro off of E-bay and put it on the frame rail, bypass the old pump and power it from the stock harness. Then run a 3/16 inch bypass back to the tank from the rubber hose in between the filter housing and the vp44.
It's just that simple.

HOHN

I wouldn't recommend this ^^ unless you KNOW how much current your Walbro is drawing and KNOW that you're not gonna fry the ECM from too much current draw.

As for the return line, well I suppose this would work but a bypass regulator would actually only return the fuel that's needed, instead of just leaking off all that fuel flow with no control over the distribution.

jmo

2500superram

hey justin.how where you planning to do the regulator.maybe put a tee at the IP ,then the regulator on the new conection,then the return to the tank.thats kinda how the set-up is on my car.the set-up at the tank can support the extra line going in?is it metal,so you can braze a fuel line in or just an an-6 bulkhead fitting bolted in?
i have no idea what the tank set-up is like or what i'm going to have to do to remove my in-tank set-up.

PourinDiesel

FASS with filters and dont look back....

HOHN

I was planning on doing the regulator right before the OEM filter housing.

Using the Vulcan draw straw, send the regulator's return flow to the Vulcan return straw via a Glacier Diesel 2micron universal filter setup.

But I tend to do things the hard way-- for the cost of the setup they way I would do it, you could probably just buy a FASS and be done with it-- AND get the air removal feature of the FASS.

JMO

AAmeeting

I have the older FASS 95 with spin ons. Its been 2 years and 50000 miles or so not one problem fp gauge always reads 15 psi even at wot. I just changed the filters not because they were full just because they were starting to rust real bad. New filter and water seperator both 10 micron were 35.00 from schieds. Good pump and 6 year warranty. Tom

junkyard

i've ordered the walbro 392 kit from glacier and then made the mistake of searching into what is included. on the net there are walbro discount outlets and i found one that sells the walbro pumps for anywhere from $100 up to $116 for the 255lph/hp (assume that means liters per hour/high perf), and the same mounting hardware - some kind of sleeve and a couple of straps and screws - for around $12. they also sell every kind of brass fitting and fuel line you might need. what i don't know, and want to hear from you folks about, is whether the glacier kit includes any high-zoot pressure regulators, pressure-sensitive switch gear and wiring, or other pieces/parts, that justify paying $419 for what looks like about $175 worth of hardware.