windkid4

Hello all,

I tow a lot with my 95 auto stock, I would like a little more power. Anythoughts?
In the pas 6 mos, new water pump, new lift pump, new rubber fuel lines & pressure relive value. I take good care of it, I would like a easy HP upgrade something I can do myself.
Thanks

WHIFF

Welcome to the site! You've come to the right place for this kind of info. Lots of folks with tons of knowledge on your rig. Here's my input.

1. Gauges (boost, EGT, and tranny)
2. Scotty II
3. 4"exhaust
4. #5 plate -- Someone else can correct me, but for a 95 auto, I hear this is a good one.

All of this should set you back about $750-$1000, depending on if you can do the install. I wouldn't do any modifications to your rig until I had gauges to see what's going on with boost and heat. If you do these 4 things, you'll see noticeable performance improvement.

windkid4

OK...can someone explane to me what are the #'s plate. (Fuel plates)??? Also what is the Scotty II?? I will do all the work myself.

Can I just buy a performance set of injectors? I'm thinking 40 - 60HP would make a big difference. Is that possible with a auto transmission and a new set of injectors?

Thanks

SHARPMACHINE

Do a search on torque plate.


The first mods I did to my truck was a #10 plate and a 3gsk kit. Neither of these ever got my truck even close to the upper pyro limit, so I think they could be done without gages if you don't want to. Gages are a good thing, but I don't think that they are required for small performance gains, afterall newer trucks don't have them and they are pushing much more power.


welcome aboard and good luck

SHARPMACHINE

Also to answer your question the fuel plate is the governer that limits fuel to your motor. A search will net you much reading on the subject.

gunracer1

#100 plate and a gsk. you will be amazed at the differance. a search will fill you in. and it is cheap upgrade

Rattlerattle

Intake and exhaust for sure.

You can grind your stock fuel plate.

Might be the limit of the stock tranny with towing?

TxDiesel007

Get some gauges before u get all that done

Push your stock plate forward for an easy 25 plus horses, If you still want more, well the pick up trick works ok, Put the starwheel forward, IE loosen it, that is ur AFC housing smoke control, if you loosen it, more smoke and quicker spool up, just the opposite for tightening it up.

More power, u need more fuel, more fuel u need more air, that is the simplest way to put this whole diesel power equation in laymans terms.. (or however u spell it) Anyways, try pushin your stock plate forward first, Again the search on plate adjustment should yield many a result. so read and enjoy..

Welcome to DTR on behalf of everyone who hasnt properly welcomed u yet...

Tx

windkid4

OK, great advice, however can you explane to me where the stock fule plate is located and how I push it forward?
Thanks

AlpineRAM

Good info can be found here:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mor...ower_p7100.htm

You won't necessarily need a plate made by TST, but hte stuff I bought from them was top notch quality and came with good instructions. (This is very valuable because if you mess up it's gonna cost!)

Your stock auto is going to hate you for a torque plate.- I'd suggest a governor spring kit and some little work to the valvebody of your tranny in the first place. (I think of setting shift points). This would keep the torque stock and give more hp by letting the engine rev. Torque, especially at low rpms makes trannies slip.

HTH

AlpineRAM

cumminsdriver635

Here is a great explanation with pics of how to put in a fuel plate, except if you dont have an aftermarket plate to put in, then just play with your stock one once you get in there.

Link: http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/INSRUCT98.pdf

Here is my suggestions. Since you are hauling heavy loads.

-Gauges first(boost, pyrometer(EGT), and transmission
-exhaust(straight pipe the stock one for some EGT reduction on the cheap)
-Intake of some kind(scotty is good)
-Transgo shift kit
-3k GSK
-Stock plate/starwheel full forward

I wouldnt put in a fuel plate until you upgrade your torque converter. Also, if i were you i would get on ebay, and buy a transgo shift kit for these trucks for $59. I gave $50 for mine(they're $59 now), and it helped my transmission a LOT! Its kind of scary to put in, but just take your time, and you shouldnt have any problems. Mine shifts much better, and the Torque converter holds much better. This would be ideal since you haul a lot. Im sure glad i bought mine. The Governor Spring Kit will help you more with hauling than the plate will until the converter locks, but that is only in 4th gear, or 3rd if overdrive is off. So in my opinion, get the governor spring kit, and then get a fuel plate after/if you buy a better torque converter. The Governor spring kit wont be hard on your transmission like the fuel plate will. Moving the stock plate forward will give you a decent extra kick, and the governor spring kit will make you think you own a new truck. You could probably get by with having a fuel plate on a stock tranmission, i just wouldnt put it all the way forward. If you left it centered, as long as your torque converter wasnt slipping, and EGT's were fine, then you would be fine. Good luck whatever you decide on.

Eric

windkid4

OK Thanks for the info, I have a question.....................
After I get the cover off do I just turn the Star Wheel forward? I really don't understan how to slide the fuel plate forward.
I can fix dam near anything that breaks. Just a little hand holding and I will be good to go!!

Thanks

Rattlerattle

The holes that hold the fuel plate in are slots and not round holes. By loosening the two screws you can slide the plate forward and tighten down.

A good idea to mark where the plate was in the original position.

The star wheel is the fine adjustment. The AFC is the course. So when you move the plate if you reinstall the AFC full forward you should get a fair bit of smoke until spool up.