2500Ram

So I finally got my pyro, trans temp and boost gauge installed in a 3 gauge A pod pillar (had fuel pressure installed just after purchase) Install was really easy but time consuming mainly electrical and that was just finding the 12v switch power, none on my door fuse panel and a 12v dimmer source, both were found with a probe light without much effort. Ran the wires up and down and everything works. Question is EGT's are through the roof!!! I can easily hit 1300* with an EZ. Outside of gauges the EZ is the ONLY mod I've done to this truck, well silencer ring is gone but...

Does the EZ really give that much fuel to get the temps up so high?? Boost readings are ~8psi cruising at 55mph. Max boost was 18psi with a WOT run. With my EZ I was not able to use the boost elbow due to my turbo (is that the hx or hy?) If I lug 3rd or 4th egt's go sky high and this is with an auto so it's kinda hard to lug 3rd. Anyone have any comments on what could be causing such high temp readings???

Pics to follow.

pillar mount


Pyro probe


Boost bolt


Diesel Manor hot line with sending unit


Thanks again everyone for the help.

Bill.

mainer

sounds like you need to mod your wastegate for more boost to cool that extra fueling down a bit.

i would think you could get it that hot since your only running 18psi...


i can only hit about 1250* with my 12v and a few mods... but i'm hitting 36psi of boost... so it cools it down nicely

kelownadiesel

you need an exhaust for sure.Id add a BHAF as well.The exhaust is the next mod for sure.Youll lose 200 degrees easy.On my truck Ive got a drag comp,smarty,BHAF,exhaust.With the wastegate disabled,I can hit nearly 50 psi and never hotter than 1250.By then the clutch is beggin for it though.Get the exhaust soon,you are smart to get the guages first,most guys would be too impatient

smokinstrokes99

i would agree with mainer, you have an auto so get a j-hook to raise the boost you can get one from tst, bullydog and many other places for around 20bucks, also with a chip adding fuel, you may want to improve the air flow.

2500Ram

So I've read about the turnbuckle mod but is that the only way to reduce EGT's? I kinda like having a wastegate (newbie still) that will control some boost pressure, I don't have any other plans for BOMBS, maybe some RV 275's but...

With my WOT run I would get to ~18 psi pretty quick, lots of smoke until about 10 psi and then it's clear. 18 psi in 1st down to about 8psi for the shift into 2nd and up again to 15-17psi until 3rd repeat for 4th and I'm going way too fast I don't want a drag truck I want power for pulling our TT through the Rocky Mtns of Colorado. I was told the EZ was the "perfect" fit for what I want. Yes it pulls nice but now seeing EGT's I need help cooling things down before the camping season.

Thanks again

Sea:\>Drive

No, intake, exhaust, turnbuckle all work to reduce EGTs.

2500Ram

Thanks everyone. I know intake will help but what I read on here stock exhaust is good for about 450 hp. So will a BHAF really cool that much???

J hook, is that the same as turnbuckle? Links or pics would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

smokinstrokes99

its prob the same, just designed exactly for the auto turbo

http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=63

Sea:\>Drive

No, not the same. A j-hook has a spring built in and you wastegate will open, but it will open later, thus more boost. a turnbuckle will lock the wastegate shut period.

J-hook is probably safer with any fueling mods (injectors or box) as it will prevent the turbo from spooling too high. A turnbuckle could "possibly" let the turbo over-spin will additional fueling mods.

Most research puts the stock turbo good up to about 32-35lbs of boost.

As with any bomb, gauges will tell you waht is going on so you can keep it safe.

yfz450guy

nice job!
where did you get the boost bolt?
how did you drill/tap the exhaust without getting shavings in the turbo?
sorry for the dumbish questions.

AWCampbelll

Slowly with a lot of patience. You put grease on the drill and the tap and clean after a couple of turns. Its slow but keeps the shavings out of the turbo. Also when you get done with the tap stick a small magnet in the hole and move it around to get any strays. Thats how I did it and was told how to do it.

2500Ram

Exactly what I did, plus before installing the sending unit I fired up the engine and everything else small blew out the hole. Very simple. I was worried I'd mess up my manifold but actually the drilling and tapping was the easiest part of the entire install. Just take you time, buy a good drill and tap and it's quick and easy.

The boost bolt can be found at just about any diesel performance shop but I got mine from Geno's but Diesel Manor also has them.

Good luck.

phox_mulder

You can modify the turnbuckle by adding a spring at one end, and connect that to the anchor point.
You then have an adjustable J-hook, in essence.



Just get a smaller turnbuckle, then a hefty spring at one end.


phox

Sea:\>Drive

I've often wondered where to source the spring? What rate? What size? I guess I could buy a few and try them. I already peg my 30psi gauge with only a VA box, and will be adding DD1s soon, so I'm getting a tiny bit worried about overspinning my turbo.

Guess it is off to the hardware store and just start buying springs and trying them.

By the time I spend all that money, I might as well move to a j-hook that is already figured out for me

haloman

You should prolly move to a 60lb gauge. The stock turbo is generally good up to ~34psi.