Where is the best place to hook up for the dash light connection, as well as the 12V constant for the Pyro? 2002 3500.
I have this installation done except for that. I was disenchanted that I have the Infinity speakers in the A pillar, which the directions say to "hack your A pillar plastic up to get all those nasty bulges out of the way of our plastic pillar". Better yet, go by a standard issue from Dodge.
Other than that,it has been relatively smooth, if not a lot of hours. I did not remove the turbo, as this is a lot of work and their is one nut on there that can only be accessed by a small wrench, not enough torque; so, I used greased, removed as many shavings as possible, used a magent, crossed my fingers.
Also, strange, when I started it after, it ran 3-5 sec., quit. Checked computer reads, nothing. So I cranked it ernestly, hit the peddale, running motor, finally. I did move the fuel filter when hooking up boost, but have no idea why it acted up. Any thoughts?

 

What I did I took the light switch out and found the wire for dash lights and tapped into that.Now as far as the power supply for the pryo connection call the supplier and ask what wire to tap or get a test light. Sorry not much help.

 

Tig's right, pull out the light switch and turn on your marker lights. You can back probe the connector with a test light to ground. Check the wires for the one that makes your test light change when the dimmer is turned high to low. I'd look outside on my truck for the color....but it's not here. I think....maybe it was orange?? Anyone else? You could hook your pyro into one of your cig lighters. Mine has one that has voltage at all times and one that is with the key on only, I'd go with that one that way when you key off, pyro's off. I'm not sure of the current load on the pyro, but should not be more than 10-15 amps, which is what the outlet should be around.

 

I just did an install of guages on my truck. Mine is a 99, and I tapped into the light brown wire on the light switch for lighting. This way the lights on the guages dim with the adjuster like all the other lights in the cab. I believe that the other hot line on the Pyro needs to be a keyed 12V source, not a constant. I just pulled my radio out, and (using a test lite) found the keyed power source for it and tapped into that line and used it. Everything works great. Hope this helps.

 

I used the ashtry light. It dims with the other dash lights and is fairly easy to get to.

 

I used an "add a circuit" I bought from autozone. I plugged it into the dash light fuse. It has it's own fuse also. Worked very well and it's already right there close to your pillar.

Brad

 

Job complete. I did a search & found a good write-up/pictorial on the pyro install. You can get the Fuse Tap/Blade take off for the fuses at Auto Zone(they are samll, hard to find). In the fuse panel by the dash, #5 is the dimmer circuit and #8 is the radio for keyed power. They are right there with the wires, so relatively easy. Had to cut the blades to fit the small fuses. Kind of funky, but it works, I think. I have not tried at night.
One other issue, when I took off(or tried to) my turbo, I had a leak after putting it back on, bottom connection. Yesterady I cleaned the surfaces good with alcohol, did some blue RTV, tightened it up. The rear bolt is a little challange to get to.
At any rate, I could see where a shop might get $500+ to do this job. There is a lot to learn on the job, along the way. The deal with the Infinity speaker on the A pillar was pretty cheesy, again, hacking off the original to fit the new. Worked out OK. I made at least 7 trips to get the various pieces needed, tap/drill(stareted at Home Depot, plumbing shop, then bolt specialty shop), NAPA, twice, Autozone twice.
Seems like boost does not start untitl 1700 or so. I saw many posts on the pyro stopping at 200 on shut down. I read about the stepper motor. It seems it stops there, but on start up, drops to 0, which makes sense. I quicly goes back t0 200.
Nice to have them done. I have been wanting them since the truck was new and bought these in the spring. My Mods are complete(for now?)
Good luck to all of you who do this job that should have been done by the facory, at least the FP gauge. They should at least have been an option.

 

the only thing i can say is you should have bought the pillar pod for your gauges that had the built in infinity speaker hole

 

I did. It, however, does not match up to the one on the A-pillar. So, you pull the speaker out and put it in the new Gauge pillar, after hacking the old one to get the bumps out. Perhaps it has to be that way due to space constraints.

 

oh ok, i gotcha. yea that does suck...too bad they dont make direct replacements, instead of the slip over type

 

You know, I bought the a pillar guage pod that has the hole for the speaker. I bought the AutoMeter kit through summit, and my speaker won't fit in the GOD#*&% hole! Has anyone else encountered this problem with the AutoMeter pillar? And if so, how did u resolve it?

 

Also part of the quality experience, my instructions indicate to take sandpaper to the holes to enlarge them if they are too small. This goes quickly, the plastic is soft.
All part of the humor of gauge installation.
Happy motoring!
Mine are finally done, including the Vulcan. Seemed like a lot fo work & hours.
But they look good, work good, & the truck is finally complete.
Good Luck!