I bought the kit from Vulcan... started putting it on tonight, but ran out of time most of the way there...

three things left to do:
-> hook up pyro amplifier (easy, ditto)
-> Drill, tap, install pyro
-> Hook up fuel to isolator (yes, I know they are supposed to suck. I'll decide later... it came in the kit, which I am quite pleased with so far)

Anyway, questions:
Do I need to get a tap wrench/bar to properly hold the tap, or can I use an adjustable wrench and go carefully? it has a small square end.

And... how does the hookup for fuel from the 12V/P7100 work? A bolt came with the kit, but after pulling the feeder fuel line bolt from the IP, the bolt that came was too small. Do I have to drill and tap the bolt that is already on the pump? Or is this bolt that came with the kit meant to work off the fuel filter housing? It is a 5/8" head. It was getting late and an awkward position, so I didn't pull the fuel filter side.



And after this... a new steering box, the DSS, and I suppose it is time to put the winter front on.

 

Ok, looks like I need to tap the banjo bolt... should use the search function first (and who wants a 24V bolt.????)

As an add on question aside from the pyro tap, what size tap should I use on the banjo bolt? Also, the kit came with a 30 psi gauge, since the 12 V can get up to 35 (or is it 29?) should it be fine? Obviously, if I'm over 30 psi... I'm happy with the fuel pressure I have and don't need more info... or will it hurt the gauge?

 

The picture looks like a boost bolt for your boost gauge hookup.

Did your kit come with the tap? Not the best way or the steadiest but i have used a crescent wrench to use a tap before so it can work.

Make sure you push the isolator diaphragm fully to the fuel side of the unit. I use the eraser end of a pencil so I don't do any damage. The single biggest problem with this isolator is a small leak in the small plastic tubing connections. This allows a bit of the antifreeze solution to bleed off and allow the diaphragm to move to the opposite end of the isolator. This gives low and incorrect readings. I just had to work on my bud's rig Tuesday for just that reason. Turned out to be a very small leak right at the gauge. He was freaking out since he was down to 5 PSI on his newly installed FASS HPFP. And this is the guy who wouldn't believe me about having the gauge on his rig for the last 155,000 miles. Sure changed his tune now. Anyway, I hope we got it taken care of for good. One thing you need to be careful of: the bleed hole on the diaphragm side has a very small o-ring inside it or so Eric tells me. I think I lost it out of my Bud's and not sure that is sealed up. Be careful with that. I didn't know it was there and inadvertently backed the allen screw out too far!

Hope this is helpful.

 

Its a little tricky to tap the manifold witha crescent wrench - but that was the only thing that worked for me. Make sure you keep the tap 90 degrees to the manifold - its easy to get it cockeyed.

You dont need a boost bolt for the boost guage. There is a 1/8" pipe plug on the drovers side near the front (behing the injector pump). Remove the 1/8" plug and install your fitting and then run the tubing to the guage. Sell/give the boost bolt to someone with a 24V.

FP - yes, you are correct. Take the inlet banjo bolt out and drill and tap it 1/8" or 1/4" (depending on the fittings you have). Like this:



Make sure you use a needle valve or pressure snubber. You really should have gotten a 60 psi fp guage. 30 psi isnt enough and pegging the guage will likely damage it.

If you have any more questions - let me know. Im not too far away.

 

I found/knew about/confirmed by looking at the AFC line the bolt in the intake manifold. That gauge works great. (I didn't think it was supposed to get up to 25-26 psi stock [accelerating at WOT in 4th at around 115 km/h] - does it, or did the PO do some tweaking? I've had the truck for 4 years and haven't even opened the IP. )

FP range - that sucks. Guess I'll have to get a different FP gauge... ****, I thought selecting 94-97 meant the FP gauge would have the right range. (that, and I had even checked my FSM, which says 17-22 psi @ idle, 25-30 psi @ 2500 rpm). I might just run it and see what it reads, since I don't have anywhere near as much need for a FP gauge as a 24V'er. Possibly get one in the states/sometime when I don't have to get a $70 broker import fee from UPS. :P Unless someone in Edmonton really wants to buy the 30 psi'er off me.

Although I must say, other than that, I'm impressed with the Vulcan gauge kit.

 

Scott, call Eric at Vulcan...maybe he can swap it for you?...and use the United States Post Office instead of UPS.

If not, run it and see what happens.

 

Sounds good, I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

I didn't let UPS take the $70 from me - they didn't even succeed in leaving those yellow stickies on my door before sending me a postcard telling me they would ship it back the next day. I paid the import GST of $15.

I don't suppose you would have suggestions on how to hook up the various fittings, my next stab will be looking at princess auto for needle valves that feature NPT threading... I have only found ones with compression fittings w/ straight threads.

 

Scott, I might have a used needle valve laying around. Ill look.

Im pretty sure Princess Auto doesnt have them.

 

Scott, did you find what you need?

 

Yup - I didn't get a chance to call Vulcan until today. I talked to Eric, and he was very helpful, and will send me a 0-60 psi for a good deal. I'm quite pleased I went with Vulcan - good product at a good price, with good service.

I will have the 0-30, if any Edmonton 24V'ers want a good deal on a hooked up to coolant once, but never pressurized ISSPRO fuel pressure guage.

I found the needle valve at acklands grainger, just heading out to pick it up, and some welding stock to complete my cable shutoff (I tested the solenoid once out, just to make sure I was right... and the thing was dead - intermittent on the hold circuit, not fried like is normal, however).

Thanks for your help.