i had my pump all apart the other day and noticed that the fuel rack inside the pump hits a big plug on the front of the pump... is there a way to modify-buy a different plug so that you can get more fuel out of it? and if you do this, do you also have to modify the afc so you can actually get the rack all the way back there? i'm not really scurd of the egt's, i want SMOKE! i alredy have plans for 370's and delivery valves. oh, and say you grind a plate down too much, or just take it out completely, does it affect the governor speed??? like make it act like it has no governor?? that's what it looked like it would do if you just took it out opposed to grinding it to a 0

 

and i can't just shim the plug with washers like my uncle suggested b/c that washer inside falls out and locks the rack to no fuel and i dunno what would happen if the pump was actually turning when the rack falls out of place like that.

 

Removing or swapping plates does not affect governor rpm........you need to change governor springs to change the governed rpm limit........please do not remove your plate - do search - lots of potential problems, it does more harm then good..............no gauges in your sig, at least get an egt gauge if you are going to mess around with grinding plates...........you should be scared of egt's if you don't know how hot you are running!

Are you referring to the AFC rack?........if the housing is full forward and the spring is slacked, the AFC rack should not hinder the limit of arm travel on the fuel plate..........there is no reason to have the arm travel past this point - lets too much fuel in too late and you would have to remove the plate or badly over grind one to let this happen..........all you will get is more smoke and egt instead of a power gain - especially with a stock turbo.

 

The plug I think is what adjust you rack travel. Not really sure but I have heard of people adjusting the plug for mroe rack travel.
DM01

 

i havn't got my truck running yet, but i do have a set of guages in the closet. my boost guage goes to 30 psi. i first bought the guages for my ford and i figured the 30 would look better in the FORD than a 50 because 15 psi would be 1/2 way around the dial instead of 1/4.... the ol' gal only made 15 psi... turd, but that guage is cheap compared to the pyro. and that plug i'm talking about is the one on the front of the pump, if you take that plug out, you can see that the fuel rack will move another 3/16 or 1/4 inch. dodgeman knows the one, it takes about a 1-1/8 wrench to turn it, i just spent 3500 on the engine, sleeved, turned, valvejob, port & polish. i could have done it cheaper if i put it together myself, but i didn't have the time to do it all. i gotta take it easy on her for a while at least. can't go hot-rodding a brand new motor. just wait till it gets about 1500 miles on it.

 

you're gonna need more than a 30psi gauge

 

if you grind the plug down it will increase the rack traver, and get more fuel. but it will also increse the duration of the fuel shot. so more timing will be need to get a good burn.

 

Does the additional fueling duration not get added to the retarded side?.........After measuring my AFC rack travel limit with the TST spring I found that with the housing full-forward the rack didn't impede the arm travel on my #100 plate which is moved .080" forward of stock at WOT..........I'm sure other plates will vary slightly but probably not much more on the top end than on my #100...........I could move my #100 another .080-.100" more forward and still have no interference with the AFC rack.........I've never ground my plug.........makes me wonder just how much you would want to grind this plug if it still doesn't interfere on my set-up?

Gunracer:

Any general rule of thumb on pump timing changes in relation to top end fueling retard?.........I'm very interested............I only run mine at 16* because the truck was towing heavy from time to time and I had high cylinder pressure concerns.......I don't haul heavy with my 94 anymore so I may advance some more if that would let me push the plate forward some........Right now I'm at the limit (maybe just past ) for plate position in relation to egt's........maybe some more advance?.......Just worried about lifting the head with over-advancing......

 

i am not so sure of the timing myself, i wish i knew for sure. but there are many trucks that run 20 plus degrees timing on stock head gaskets. the factory stock timing on a marine 370 motor is 22 degrees. i know jeff price likes a lot more timing than most around here. i set my wife 215 truck to 17 and i have to admit that little truck rolls for what little has been done to it. i have been meaning to bump mine to 19 or so just to see how it does.