fuel pressure isolators?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: outside of H-town, Tx, thankfully
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fuel pressure isolators?
I know most of ya'll pipe fuel straight to the gauge,,,,, but I'd really prefer to use a isolator, the one I installed with my gauge package failed,,,,,, This ain't my first rodeo,,, bleed the fire out of it, compressed the blader or media before filling,,, worked for about 250 miles then went south.
Checked under hood with mech. gauge, everythings fine, Air Dog is doing it's job,,,,,,
So does anybody make a isolator worth the time to put on or is it a lost cause.
I have a low pressure light hook up, and I think I'm going to hook up another one (adjustable pressure) and set it for 10 psi, that way I'll have one at 5 psi and one at 10 psi. Thoughts anyone,,,, Bueller, Bueller?
Checked under hood with mech. gauge, everythings fine, Air Dog is doing it's job,,,,,,
So does anybody make a isolator worth the time to put on or is it a lost cause.
I have a low pressure light hook up, and I think I'm going to hook up another one (adjustable pressure) and set it for 10 psi, that way I'll have one at 5 psi and one at 10 psi. Thoughts anyone,,,, Bueller, Bueller?
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: WA State
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vulcan Performance makes a very good one and it looks sharp too! Add a SS braided hose for max bling!
#3
Once a year I refill my isolator with
antifreeze, I even fill my line, using
a syringe. If I don't do this I will
see a fluctuation in pressure. I think
the antifreeze dissipate,s by itself.
antifreeze, I even fill my line, using
a syringe. If I don't do this I will
see a fluctuation in pressure. I think
the antifreeze dissipate,s by itself.
#6
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: WA State
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just used an aeresol can with the plastic extension on it. Filled the line, let the air bubbles disipate and repeated until the line was full with minimal air in it.
So far I've got about 500 miles with no issues.
So far I've got about 500 miles with no issues.
Trending Topics
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: WA State
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes I filled the isolator and then the line. I left both ends of the line disconnected. Then I stuck the plastic extension from the silicone can (aeresol) in the line from the cab side and started flowing. I filled it until it came out the other end and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Once the air bubbles settled down, I hit it again, waited and hit it one more time. This got about 95% of the air out and left me a few inches on either end to trim before putting the fittings on. I started at the isolator, I cut the line down to the level of silicone and made the connection and then did the gauge connection.
Be patient and take your time. I am very happy and ended up with alot less air in the line. The silicone is much easier to work with then coolant and not nearly as messy.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Great Northwest!
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dave
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Roseburg Oregon
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2nd on the silicone. I have blown 2 isolators in the past and now I use a needle valve prior to the isolator. Im never worried about air. all I have ever done is fill up the isolator with silicone. usually spray it in a small fill cup fill up the isolator and then connect the compression fitting. my psi was always around 25psi with my fass150 but now I have the needle valve adjusted to read around 20psi I think this combo for me has saved my diaphram in the isolator from breaking. the silicone should be good for a long time. if you have the smallest of leak this will cause many problems with irratic readings.