blackdiesel

ok im fixing to order a fuel pressure guage and i was wondering how many psi it needs to be. im not wanting to shell out the $$$$ for the electric guage so i was going to get the mechanical. do i need the electric if i want it in the cab or an islator for the mechanical guage? ive herd yalls problems about the isolators and them wearing out real quick. so what do i need to do? thanks

phox_mulder

30psi will be perfect.
Normal pressure is 14-15, so that would be in the middle of the guage.

You'd be pegging a 15psi guage, and not even hardly registering on a 60psi.


phox

blackdiesel

thanks phox

blackdiesel

what about the mechanical or the electrical guage? if i could get by with the mechanical guage, id rather do that. do i need to put the isolator on the mechanical guage or jsut run it into the cab anyway?

RATTLINRAM

Check out Shovelhead's set-up.. It's on a 99 but I don't think he uses an isolater.
I think he uses a mechanical gauge with a small needle-valve to adjust the flow and keep the pulses down to a minimum,, plus he can shut off the flow completely if he gets a leak in the line going to the gauge.

infidel

Many folks skip the isolator with no problem.
My experience has been that most isolator diaphragms fail within a few thousand miles and fuel is coming into the cab without the owners knowledge anyway. In some states it's the law that FP gauges be sold with an isolator. If that's the case buy from a state without the law or trash the isolator.
No isolators on both my trucks for over seven years.

2500CTD

In my gallery is a pic of my FP isolator. No needle valve and I got no gauge dancing

HOHN

That was my experience. Isolator was toast in 8 months.

I subsequently went direct to the guage, with no problems at all.

Oh, and while the needle valve is good for shutoff, it may not dampen out all the pulses that can cause gauge rattling.

My solution was TWO sections of Grease gun hose. One right at the pressure tap and another one feeding the gauge. They are connected by braided stainless.

No guage rattle even with the needle valve WIDE open.

jlh

Mopar1973man

Here is my setup. Going on alomst 20K miles and no leaks or problems. I run my needle valve 1/8 of a turn open and its good.

Needle valves can be picked up at NAPA for $5.00 !!!

Olratlr

Go with a mechanical gauge with a needle valve. I have been running one
for 2/12 to 3yrs no leaks.

GlennRMK

Go 30 PSI

I have a 15 PSI and its maxed out idling.

I would do 30 if I did it over again

infidel

Mopar1973man, I like your setup, almost like I do it with 1/8" boost tubing.
I feel braided stainless line is a overkill and too hard to route around.
Come on, we're only talking 15 psi here.
Not only that but many times braided line will saw though anything it touches.

What I do different though is push the boost tubing though some 1/4" tubing to act as a protective sheath to prevent cuts, abrasion and kinks.

BDR2500

Here's my set-up:
http://dodgetruckworld.tenmagazines....mer/227828.jpg