Some opinions on easiest install, most reliable, and reasonable fuel pressure guages. Also, some mounting options if anyone has pics. Thanks

 

I searched products for price and style. I wound up with Westach. Easy install. I got it from Genos. If you had problems w/install, they have tech support to assist. I've had it on for almost two years. Works fine.

One thing....I initially didn't have this guage. I only had two guages on A pillar. If I cross this bridge again, I'll purchase a three pod guage set up.

Hope this helps some

 

Where did you tap the fuel line for your pressure hose? Did you use the VP44 test port? I am also contemplating purchasing the westach from Geno's.

 

sorry frenzel, not trying to hi-jack your thread here, but (everybody) whats better, mechanical or electrical? and if using a mechanical unit, is an issolator needed? i've seen some guy on E-bay selling without. he says it's not necessary. but all of my past experience building muscle cars says that it's not necessary if mounted outside the cabin on the cowling. but in cabin, always with an issolator.
is it that different with diesel?

 

Crude install, but quick,
Geno's banjo with line fitting, Fuel hose to firewall, 1/8 copper to gage
cut off bolt shoulder in fuel line with 1/16 hole drilled for snubber.

 

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I put my gauge here because i dont run an isolator and if it starts leaking i can shut the needle valve to stop the leak. Its alot easier the clean the floor mats than behind the dash!!!

 

Thanks...Think I'll definitely go with an isolator just in case . Is it really that much more work or just the cost difference. OH, and does anyone else leak fuel from the tank when full and parking facing uphill on an incline??????????????

 

Am I right that if you go electrical guage you wont need an isolator. How easy is it to rig an electrical unit like this http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....ber=WM-FPKT-30

 

I heard bad stuff about isolators. I just bought a new fuel pressure gauge too. I got a mechanical Autometer 100 psi gauge with stainless stell braided line. Haven't installed it yet but one thing I'm not installing is an isolator. I think mechanical is the most accurate and reliable way to measure the fuel pressure. Only downfall is that I have to plumb diesel into the cab. But that's why I went with the steel braided line.

 

I agree with Devin 01. I have mine on pillar, but needle valve is a must with a mechanical gauge. It also helps to keep the gauge from rattling from fuel spikes. My experience with isolators has not been good. They have never read right. I have a couple of buddies running electrical auto meter C2’s, and cobalt’s they have not hade any problems, but electrical gauges are high$.

 

Yeah, I don't trust isolators one bit. They never read right. I would just run a straight line into the cab with a neddle valve so you can shut it off if it ever leaks. I've never had a problem with a leak though.

 

Dang, you should just put all your gauges on a triple pod pillar or something.

 

 

Here is what I did and it worked great:

1. Got ISSPRO-EV fuel pressure gauge. Mechanical is more accurate.
2. Installed in the "cubby" port next to the radio. Geno's will give you a face plate that make it look almost factory if you order a gauge from them. Otherwise, you can mount on top of the steering column or another location of preference.
3. Take the issolator and chunk it and run one continuous line into cab to back of gauge. Worked great and no leaking if you seal your threads with #2 sealer and DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!!!
4. I hooked it into the test port on the VP44
5. Also put a needle valve in-line to be able to shut off fuel to gauge.

It took a couple of hours and helped me save my IP due to a weak lift pump.

Have Fun!!!

 

So are you guys saying that an electrical guage isn't going to be accurate enough to serve my purpose? Or are they just not as accurate as a mechanical? I mean will it be accurate enough to warn of possible lift pump failure? That is the main reason most install them isn't it?