fuel pressure gauge help
#1
fuel pressure gauge help
I'm a new owner of the 2500 and want to heed the advice of this group and get a fuel pressure gauge. I found a single A piller mount on Summit. Any body use one of these with the exesting speaker. I wanted to know if it would mount above or below the speaker. Also can I just get braided fuel line 6ft or 4ft ? and the summit fuel pressure gauge. Sorry to be el'cheepo but just want it in before I do the LP relocation. I'll get the rest of the fittings at NAPA i.e. the 90 elbow and shut off valve. I don't want an isolator. trying to keep it at a 100 bucks.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Registered User
I mounted my FP guage next to the ash tray by your right foot. It's out of the way, and it will save your pillar for boost ot egt's if you get some seroius bombing. I just used a standard guage bracket, and taped into the ashtray for a night light power source. Looks good too.
I think it would be alot less than $100, mine was under $50 I think.
I think it would be alot less than $100, mine was under $50 I think.
#3
I was estimating the 100 bucks cus the fuel line was extra. I want to run WVO in about 6mths. I have the set up but gona wait till its nice and hot outside before I put it in. Also the summit gauge says you have to buy the cup to mount it outside. I was thinking it didn't come with a mount and no fuel line.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
#4
Registered User
Ranman, I used 300psi rated 1/4"ID hydraulic hose from NAPA. It was less than $20 and I think I used about 6' or so to go to the pillar.
One thing I don't understand is that a lot of people seem to think they need to use braided stainlees for their FP gauge....why? There is no braided stainless anywhere else in the fuel system, and we're not running high pressure either. It's a waste of money imo, plus you really can't see much of the line anyway.
One thing I don't understand is that a lot of people seem to think they need to use braided stainlees for their FP gauge....why? There is no braided stainless anywhere else in the fuel system, and we're not running high pressure either. It's a waste of money imo, plus you really can't see much of the line anyway.
#5
Running without an isolator is ok, but you do know that you will have fuel coming into the cab. Not that it will ever leak, but you never know and thats why most people install the isolator.
Just something to think about!
And yes, the braided lines are overkill.
Just something to think about!
And yes, the braided lines are overkill.
#6
Chapter President
-4 low pressure (250-300psi teflon lined) S/S braided hose is cheap.......it won't break the bank for 5'. I use braided hose and fittings for the FP gauge as cheap insurance to protect against leaks in the cab. There is no need to use high pressure S/S hose with a liner that has weaved steel/rubber - that is where the bucks are. My low pressure hose and -4 JIC steel fittings cost me about $25 CDN. High pressure hose and aluminum fittings will probably cost about twice that amount and certainly aren't required.
#7
Administrator / Scooter Bum
Originally Posted by HP Upgrades
Running without an isolator is ok, but you do know that you will have fuel coming into the cab. Not that it will ever leak, but you never know and thats why most people install the isolator.
Just something to think about!
And yes, the braided lines are overkill.
Just something to think about!
And yes, the braided lines are overkill.
I LIKE overkill.
Over 4 years with the stainless hose - no isolator and my gauge sits in the middle of my dash.....not a drip.
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#8
Thanks for all the help on this. I just clicked on order from Summit. I got the fuel line 6ft and the Summit gauge. I also got the single pod I guess no one has used them before. Hope it fits or I trash it and go with the dash set up (thanks shovelhead). I checked next to the ash tray but forgot I have the trailer break there. I'll let you all know how the install goes and what my numbers are.
#9
Administrator / Scooter Bum
You REALLY gotta commit to do a dash setup like mine.
There are 8 mounting screw holes, 2 elongated holes for the wiring harnesses, and a large hole for the -AN fitting the come through and connect to the back of the gauge.
There is also some 'webbing' molded into the underside of the dash that needed trimming in a few spots for everything to mount correctly.
Wifey gave me a look when I told her I was drilling several holes in the dash of my year old truck.
Just want you to have all the gory details, so you can make an informed decision.
There are 8 mounting screw holes, 2 elongated holes for the wiring harnesses, and a large hole for the -AN fitting the come through and connect to the back of the gauge.
There is also some 'webbing' molded into the underside of the dash that needed trimming in a few spots for everything to mount correctly.
Wifey gave me a look when I told her I was drilling several holes in the dash of my year old truck.
Just want you to have all the gory details, so you can make an informed decision.
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