fuel pressure gauge
03-19-2005, 06:04 PM
#1
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fuel pressure gauge
i have a mecanical gauge w/isolater i have replaced once and am still not " at ease" with the dependability/accuracy of this one. are you guys using the mecanicals w/ isolaters or without isolaters or electrical ?
03-19-2005, 09:02 PM
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just replaced lift pump couple days ago . shows 10 lbs now. but gauge does not drop when i shut truck down and is eratic. sometimes 10 lbs then 4 lbs then 7 lbs ect.
gauge at pump reads 18 lbs
gauge at pump reads 18 lbs
03-19-2005, 11:05 PM
#5
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Originally posted by Shovelhead
Isspro Mechanical - No Isolator - 3 years - no drips.
If it says I gots no pressure, I gots no pressure.
Isspro Mechanical - No Isolator - 3 years - no drips.
If it says I gots no pressure, I gots no pressure.
I agree 100%
I would suggest plumbing it without the isolator
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03-20-2005, 12:37 PM
#11
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Originally posted by shoe
how do you all contect to the guage?what size line and kind of fitting?
Rob
how do you all contect to the guage?what size line and kind of fitting?
Rob
03-20-2005, 03:57 PM
#12
Wouldn't you rather use copper than that vinyl/plastic line? Personally I would anti up to the braided steel line. I had some of the plastic line leak on the race car on the oil psi gauge and that made a huge mess.
03-20-2005, 05:07 PM
#13
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I dont like the plastic(teflon) either, however I know of many people who have had no problems with it. Personally I feel safer with the SS braided teflon.
03-20-2005, 05:35 PM
#14
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Originally posted by J BODY
Wouldn't you rather use copper than that vinyl/plastic line? Personally I would anti up to the braided steel line. I had some of the plastic line leak on the race car on the oil psi gauge and that made a huge mess.
Wouldn't you rather use copper than that vinyl/plastic line? Personally I would anti up to the braided steel line. I had some of the plastic line leak on the race car on the oil psi gauge and that made a huge mess.
I use the bulk 1/8" line that you buy by the foot at the auto parts, it goes straight rather than trying to coil back up like the stuff that comes with kits. The 1/4" protective tubing slipped over the small line makes it much easier to deal with, no kinks.
03-20-2005, 08:09 PM
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Originally posted by infidel
Too much engine movement, copper would eventually break. I've had the same plastic boost type lines on both my rigs for over eight years without one drip. Have installed a couple dozen more. Biggest problem people have is due to overtightening the compression fittings. Hand tight and one turn with a wrench is plenty.
I use the bulk 1/8" line that you buy by the foot at the auto parts, it goes straight rather than trying to coil back up like the stuff that comes with kits. The 1/4" protective tubing slipped over the small line makes it much easier to deal with, no kinks.
Too much engine movement, copper would eventually break. I've had the same plastic boost type lines on both my rigs for over eight years without one drip. Have installed a couple dozen more. Biggest problem people have is due to overtightening the compression fittings. Hand tight and one turn with a wrench is plenty.
I use the bulk 1/8" line that you buy by the foot at the auto parts, it goes straight rather than trying to coil back up like the stuff that comes with kits. The 1/4" protective tubing slipped over the small line makes it much easier to deal with, no kinks.
The line to my mech. oil pressure gauge in my Jeep leaked on my passengers foot. I thought it was pretty funny, but he didnt see it that way
