EverydayDiesel

Does anyone have any pics on where you hooked up the fuel pressure sender for a fuel pressure gauge?

Are there any adapter fittings that i will need to hook up the fuel pressure sender?

Are the gassers fuel pressure gauges the same as the diesel fuel pressure gauges?

GFB

Just get a mechanical one with an isolator. Not sure why, but on summit's webpage it says the autometer electronic gauges with senders are not for dodge diesel trucks. I did the ISSPRO with isolator and used the factory test port for a pressure source.

XJJoe01

Most people either use the factory test port which is located near the injection pump, our use banjos that are threaded for a test fitting. I also am running an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge, but I do not use an isolator. I used to have an isolator, but it failed and caused me to think bad things were happing to my truck.

I believe the DTR and Geno's Garage stores sell the parts you need to monitor your fuel pressure.

HTHs,
Joe

EverydayDiesel

is there anything wrong with running an electric gauge?

PaulDaisy

No, other than when you see zero pressure you have to test if this is a bad sender unit or the pressure is indeed zero. For that you still have to use a second mechanical gauge. Plus, electric is usually more expensive. On the upside, electric is neater to install (no fuel feed into the cab).
-P

DL1221

Exactly.

If you want the most reliable gauge set up, don't use an isolator and don't use an electric gauge with a sending unit. Like Paul said, when ever you get an out-of-normal reading, you'll always have to check to make sure your isolator or sending unit isn't bad.

I run mechanical fuel, oil, and water temp gauges. For the fuel gauge I used a rubber line (from Geno's Garage) from the test port on the pump a point on the fender, then from the fender I run 1/8 copper tubing to the gauge under the dash.

PaulDaisy

I ran a teflon tube from the fuel filter housing to the gauge in the cab, no isolator. Never had any problems with the setup. And, I used a "water" pressure gauge, the whole setup cost me like $15.
-P

EverydayDiesel

what if i take a "T" under the hood and make one side of the "T" go to the electric fuel pressure sender and the other side go to a mechanical gauge under the hood. That way if it reads zero all I have to do is pop the hood and look at the mechanical gauge under the hood.

Is there anything wrong with that setup? other then the price?

EverydayDiesel

it doenst look like mechanical is that much cheaper if any after you buy the gauge, isolator, fuel extension, and banjo fitting. I may just go electrical with a T and have a cheap mechanical gauge under the hood

PaulDaisy

I bought a mech gauge from the surpluscenter.com for $7 and had a piece of hose that was laying around. The whole setup cost me less than $20, including the needle valve that allows to shut off fuel to the gauge in the unlikely event of a leak in the cabin. You don't need an isolator, its a waste of money and will break through in a year anyway. Don't bother.
-P