inline6359

Okay i have all my equipment for the fuel pressure gauge install, but still a few questions. First of all i went with 1/4 inch needle valve and line becvause nobody had a1/8. So i have my tapped 24valve banjo bolt i bought which i hope workd. Will it. Here are my quetions: Will the 24vlave banjo bolt work? If it does should i just put the valve right off of the bolt or should i use some line and then put the valve on? Do i need to fill the line with fuel to get the air out or just hook it up. And how do i know when to stop opening the valve when i get it on?

Rick

sumner

I just did my install yesterday. I put the new banjo on and ran a 90 degree elbow on top of it, and next the valve. Ran 2 lengths of hose to the guage. Works great. The hoses i used(got them from genos) were rubber with the fittings on each end. I opened my valve all the way. Not getting any pulsing. Hope this helps.

Mopar1973man

Check out my set up...

http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...icol_gages.htm

VinDiesel

The 24V banjo is 12mm, it will fit the 12V filter housing outlet. The 12 V P7100 pump has 14mm inlet (and 14mm outlet overflow valve). Replace the banjo with the air bleed bolt. For bleeding air when installing a new filter, just don't quite seat the filter, pump the primer button until you get fuel coming up around the filter, then tighten it. If you're careful this isn't much more messy than using the air bleed bolt.

Put the valve at the banjo. Some fuel hose and fittings or a grease gun hose may be used up to a fitting at the firewall where you can attach to a fuel isolator or the small tubing to your gauge (assuming mechanical). Or to your sender if you're using an electrical gauge. This length of tubing can also help dampen vibrations.

You do not need to fill the line with fuel, if you use an isloator, fill the gauge side with antifreeze mix.

Have someone watch the gauge and just barely open the needle valve until you get a reading. When you shut the engine off, the gauge should return to zero. If not, open the valve just a bit more.


The whole idea of having the needle valve "snubber" is to dampen pulses by having it just barely open. A small fixed orifice would do the same, but the needle valve is easily adjustable and cheaper than the commericially available snubbers. To help hold adjustment, the packing nut can be tightened until the valve is more difficult to turn.

infidel

To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:
First of all ignore advice from the 24 valve folks, their set up is different.
The 24 valve bolt won't work on the 12 valve injection pump. If you use it on top of your filter you will lose use of the air bleed screw plus there isn't as much room to work as there is at the injection pump.

I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel
or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.

Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.

If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs. No need to purge air, the gauge will read very close with or without air in the line. It won't be long till the entire line is full of air anyway.



Needle valve installed on pump banjo

inline6359

well i found out the bolt dosent work. I posted the plan on other sites and nobody said it wouldnt work so i bought it. Should have done it here. My second problem i have is that there is no 1/8 needle valve at lowes, home depot, ace, napa, auto zone, pepboys, wal mart, kmart. So i went with the 1/4 needle valve. It will work kosher but i dont think my banjo can be tapped that big for the needle valve. I will find out later. I guess tis is going to be a work in progress.

VinDiesel

If you bought the usual 12 x 1.5 mm tapped banjo, it should fit your filter housing outlet (filter end of the IP feed line). Your '97 should have the spin-on filter housing same as my '96. You did pull the whole old banjo out, and not just the bleed bolt on top, right? As you probably know, 12mm is very close to 1/2 inch. If your banjo is bigger, it may be a 14mm and fit in the IP inlet.

I couldn't find an 1/8" pipe thread both ends 90* needle valve locally either. I bought one with 1/8" male pipe thread on bottom and 1/4" compression out the side. You could just put a short piece of tubing in and clamp fuel hose to it. I took a brass hose barb splice and cut all but the last "cone" off one side. I then shortened that and increased the taper to resemble the ferrule. Finally, I drilled the compression nut out a little. Then I had a 1/8NPT x 1/4 hose barb 90* needle valve! I know, that's a lot of labor for such a small part. I don't like not being able to buy a realatively simple part, so I end up making it.

The easiest way to use the 1/4" valve would be a jump size hex nipple. I bought a couple of those at TruckPro recently. 1/8NPT male x 1/4NPT male is what's needed. Autozone might have them too. You could use a 1/8" nipple and a 1/4" x 1/8" bushing, or a bell reducer and two nipples, but get into several fittings that way.

Let us know how it goes, I'm still not quite sure why that banjo isn't working for you. Good luck.

blackdiesel

I had a hard time finding a 1/8 needle valve. so I used a ball valve. works good also

infidel

This is the needle valve I use
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1612835462

VinDiesel

I bet your problem was that your truck has the cartridge style filter housing instead of the spin-on. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it does have a smaller banjo bolt.