bcmopar1

can anyone tell me what fuel plate is best for the most streetable h.p. and any other mods needed for this? Mark at tst said a # 11, but as I read through the forum you guys are talking about 10,5,4,0, any help ?

VinDiesel

Well, first fill out your signature so we can see what your present setup is.<br><br>What are you going to do with the truck? Haul a travel trailer, 20,000 lb. gooseneck, just hotrod around?

WHIFF

If I'm not mistaken, I believe the plate# can vary, depending on whether you have an automatic or a 5-spd. You can try this link: TSTProducts.com and it will give you a decent idea about what type of HP #s to expect. Before you go nuts on a new plate, may I recommend a set of gauges (EGT and boost as a minimum for a 5-spd, and throw in a tranny temp for an automatic.)<br><br>By the way...welcome to the site. You can learn a lot from most of these guys (and gals.)

VinDiesel

As Whiff stated, you HAVE to have gauges if you intend on making as much power as possible. The more fuel, the quicker EGTs can go through the roof.<br><br>If you have looked at the TST chart, you will see that since you're starting out with a manual truck, you have the 215hp pump and injectors. That's why the same plate in yours will make more power than in an automatic truck. Note that the #11 is good for 280hp/680ft/lbs, and the #10 will do 330/750 with the notes (**/***).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>** stock manual will not hold <br>*** EGT will run high without airflow improvement<br><br>So, the #11 is about all you're going to get away with without beefing up the clutch and modifying the air intake and possibly the exhaust. Of course the heat problem gets worse if you want to tow something.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

1320

Where does the &quot;0&quot; plate fit in? I see some people running the &quot;0&quot; plate but don t see it listed anywhere.....?<br><br>

vssman

0 plate is just a straight plate - no profile (bumps).

berner

[quote author=VinDiesel link=board=7;threadid=16762;start=0#157960 date=1057723788]<br>As Whiff stated, you HAVE to have gauges if you intend on making as much power as possible. The more fuel, the quicker EGTs can go through the roof.<br>[/quote]<br>I'll second the &quot;buy gauges first&quot;. I put a #8 plate and gov kit in before gauges. When I finally installed my pyro I saw 1400 degrees unloaded winding it out in 3rd gear with my plate slid a bit forward. I still get close to 1300 with the plate in the stock position. I'm getting the timing checked/set tomorrow to see if it slipped again. The mechanic I'm taking it to figures it's at about 9 degrees by the way it sounds and smokes when cold. If that doesn't cool it down it looks like it's air filter time.

VinDiesel

[quote author=1320 link=board=7;threadid=16762;start=0#158061 date=1057762889]<br>Where does the &quot;0&quot; plate fit in? I see some people running the &quot;0&quot; plate but don t see it listed anywhere.....?<br>[/quote]<br><br>Anything hotter than a #5 is considered &quot;off road only&quot; or &quot;special application&quot;. Mods required to run such plates are extensive, I think that's why they're not on the chart.