NHDiesel

Most of you guys just about install these things in your sleep, but I have seen several posts from nu-B's like myself asking about plates, so I thought I'd share my install experience. I received my #10 plate in the mail today and couldn't wait to see what it would do, so I installed it in my driveway.

First off, the install instructions from TST are excellent. But I found that many of the steps are unnecessary if you have good dexterity and work well in tight places. I didn't have to pull off any of the intake plumbing at all, or any hoses or lines other than the plastic line running to the AFC housing. The hardest part of the install, by far, was dealing with the break-off screw. I tried using a Torx bit without luck. Then I tried a sharp chisel to turn the screw without luck. I ended up breaking off the head completely, and removing the piece after the AFC housing was removed. Make sure you use a GOOD screwdriver that is the CORRECT size for the AFC housing screws, and also for the plate screws! You don't want to damage the heads, and these screws are pretty tight. My housing screws had some oxidation, so they took a fair amount to break them loose. I actually ground the tip of a large screwdriver to just the right size for the slot in the screws to ensure I didn't damage them.

I did remove the dipstick tube bolt, and the fuel shutoff wiring plug which is just above and behind the AFC housing, to give more room to work. Then remove the housing bolts and carefully pry the fuel shutoff solenoid away like the instructions show. Use a wrench to remove the wastegate tube (mine was plastic) and carefully move it out of the way. Lift the AFC housing up and move it back, and if you want to remove it completely, twist it around and lift it out of the engine compartment. I just moved mine back and set it where it wouldn't fall.

Now you will see the top of the fuel plate. Before I went to work on it, I had to remove the broken piece of the AFC housing bolt. Once the housing was off, it was pretty easy to turn out with small needle nose vice-grips. It was very tight working in there, but I was able to get it out. Now follow the instructions for replacing the fuel plate. It only took a few minutes at this point to swap plates and put the AFC housing back in place. The upper front bolt (the one that was the breakoff screw) is veryr tight to get to. The replacement I received had a 10mm head, and a socket wouldn't reach it, so I had a slow process of installing it with a wrench. Hook up the wastegate tube, plug in the shutoff solenoid wiring, and bolt up the dipstick.

The last step is to install the boost fitting. Unfortunately mine came as a straight fitting, not an elbow, so my original hose wouldn't work. I had to install a new, slightly longer hose to reach the new fitting. Once thats done, go for a ride...and hang on!

Jim

cumminsdriver635

Glad you got er in Does the tranny do any better with a working mystery switch now?

Eric

NHDiesel

Yup, it does much better. I still hate autos, but at least I can live with this one a little easier now until I get the 5-speed.

By the way, I was taking a good look at the boost fitting, and noticed there is NO hole in it at all. I tried blowing through it, nothing came out. I tried poking a needle in the center, nothing. Is there supposed to be a hole through it? (dumb question...I would think so, or else we would just have to block off the hose). If so, what size? This isn't the style with the adjustment screw, its just a barbed fitting with what looks like an aluminum plug pressed into the center. It has a dimple, as if someone center drilled it, but didn't continue to drill the rest of the way through it.

Jim