Ok the 94 and 95 12v manuals are rated at 175hp as the 96-98s manuals are rated at 215hp.

From what I gather here the #10 fuel plate 1/16th inch back from full forward is the best plate for the 96-98s.

What is the best plate for the 94 and 95s?I know they make up to a #5 plate but it seems like I heard someone on here say that the #10 plate was the beest for all the 12 valves.I know the 94-95s have a smaller pump and I would think small injectors too.

 

You cannot go wrong with a #10 in a 94 it will like it also. Goodluck,,Rick

 

I've got a number 10 in my truck as you can see in my sig and I love it. I also ran a #6 for a while but the 10 has a lot smoother and broader power band I think.

 

#10 in both my trucks, you'll love it.

 

I would definitely reccommend the #10 plate. I have had nothing but smiles from mine. I would deffinitely reccommend the 3K GSK at the same time. The 2 together will really wake up your truck.

Before you start bombing though. You should consider a pyro and boost gauge. The pyro really being the most important of the 2 in my opinion.

I could continue with the list from there. In time, you will want the bigger injectors, 4" exhaust, bugger DV's, bigger turbo (mmmm twins). I say this because I started here with my 94 being bone stock, now I have 2 to bomb.

Good luck

 

Yeah my plans are:

Gauages(EGT,Boost,Fuel Pressure)
Exhaust (4 inch staight pipe turbo back
No silencer ring
Cold air intake
#10 fuel plate (1/16 inch from will forward)
AFC full forward
Star screw cranked
3000 GSK springs
Turbo boost elbow


I'm think about devilery valves?What do these do and TST has them for 250 bucks for about 40HP, that ant bad.

 

you can just get the plate without the boost elbow from tst for $200. just block your wastegate and save yourself $50. spend the extra money on one of your gauges

 

Halerazor ( I like that name) how do you like your #6 plate?

 

i like my #6 the power don't really roll in until around 1800rpms i think that is why people like a #10 i think you get the power alot earlier. i think with a 3 or 4 gsk it would really fly and a better clutch i can slip it with about 3/4 throttle.

 

Ok I 'm look for some where around 350hp and 700 pounds of torque on a 94-95 manual (175 pump)

I'm plannin on:

Gauages
#10 plate full forward
AFC full foward
Crank the star screw in
Set timin at 16.5 degrees
4 inch straight pipe turbo back
Cold air intake
3000 GSK springs
Maybe a boost elbow

I don't care how much it smokes preboost, the more the better.Can I get some where around 350/700 with these mods?

If not what else would I need?

I don't want to go over that cause I want the South Bend clutch (MU0090 con.) cause it's only 350 bucks.

Dixie Diesels in Columba,Tenn will install everything and they speicalize in Cummins so I think they can tune my truck for the max out put from whatever mods I do.

 

that would probably put you at around 250hp. put a set of 370's and a 16cm turbo housing and i think you would be pretty close.

 

Check out my mods (Correct except for the #8, I now have a #10), I can slip a stock clutch from 1250-2250rpms, and build 40psi on stock charger.

Power estimate ~350hp, 850 ft lb. Sound Close, Guys?

The injectors made a big difference with the #8 plate, but I swapped in a #10 and look out Sally Bost maxes at 1700rpm, and holds all the way to 2500 when I back out because EGT's go instantly from 1300 to 1600+. I love the power this truck has, but desperately need a clutch (SBC DD on the way) , and a charger to use all my RPM,s.

All I know is that my truck will flat run away from my buddies '02 HO 6-speed 4.10 equipped truck, loaded or empty, and still get 17+ MPG on the freeway.

I love my Cummins, and after 18 months the jury's still out on the Dodge truck around it

Chris

 

Ok I really don't want to mess with the turbo so would 191 lazer cut delivery valves push it over the edge?

Ok I saw the TST 16cm non wastegated turbo housin.Why wouldn't I need a wastegate, how hard is it to install, and really what is it?

 

BlowBy,

Don't fear the bombing bug. When I first started, about 10 months ago with a stock truck, I thought I only wanted to make about 300hp. It only gets better with more money and mechanical experience. If you have a pretty good set of tools and some time, you can't replace the fun and satisfaction of doing it yourself.

Seriously, if you can afford it, get the next step up from the MU0090 con. This diesel horsepower is addictive. A #10 or #4(more aggressive) plate with a 3k GSK, 4" exhaust, intake, 370's and a set of 191 or 022 delivery valves should make for a wicked setup for your truck. Then of course, you'll need a bigger turbo if you tow, sled pull or drag race. You can make awesome hp for a few seconds without an upgraded turbo, but if you want to use the hp to its fullest, you'll need the bigger turbo.

 

I don't plan to tow anything, or pull a sled I just want to go to town.Smoke the tires (33X12.50s super Swamper SSRs), out run all the other diesels (nobody around here even knows what bombin is), drop chains with a few people, and maybe out run a stock ricer or two.

I honestly think 350hp and 700 torque will be the limit cause that puts me up there with the new diesels and think I'll be happy.

Ok about how much Hp and torque can I make with the mods I want (above) plus some delivery valves (Probably 191s unless I can find some stock 180s out of the 215 pump motors pretty cheap.If I could find some used injectors out of that same motor that would be good too.).I don't want to go with different injectors I just can't spend that much money so I think I'll get the plate, give it all the fuel I can give it (Slide plate full forward, slide the AFC full foward and crank in the star screw, and set the timin at 17 degrees), then the delivery valves, and hope for low EGTS.

Dang I really hope I can just find a 96-98.With just a #10 plate I'd be right where I want to be.