Trickytrae

Just bought a fuel plate #10 off of Ebay. Got it in the mail, with instructions from TST. It talks about doing something with the turbo line that runs into the back of the AFC housing.<br>What will happen if I dont do this part of the installation?<br><br>I have to admit that I dont quite understand what needs to be done.<br><br>Thanks Trickytrae

dieselcrazy

becareful with a #10 plate on a stock clutch. from my understanding the # 10 might put a whoopin on your clutch.. ( thats y i didnt buy 1 yet.. still researching ) maybe some of the other fellas will chime in and let u know for sure. also u should consider gauges before the plate ....good luck, scott<br>

dodgeman01

If you have the 180 or under pump I don't think the #10 alone will put a hurtin on your truck unless you have hight miles. Now if you go to a different Injector then yes you will have problems. <br>DM01

atc250r

The line goes to the wastegate on the exhaust housing. If you don't use the elbow that they sell ($25, I think) then you won't make any extra boost to make good use of that extra fuel. I can tell you firsthand, I am running a #11 all the way foward and the stock clutch will not hold it and the truck only had 36,000 miles on it when I put the plate in and the clutch was fine before I did the plate. Definitely put at least a pyro and a boost gauge, you'll DEFINITELY need to keep tabs on your EGT's. You may be able to block the line off or rig the wastegate shut with a turnbuckle but then you run the risk of overboosting the engine or stalling the turbo.<br><br>John<br><br><br>

dieselcrazy

was the 180 or under pump pre 97 ??

dodgeman01

the 180 and under's were used in the 97 down autos and 95 down 5spds.
DM01

VinDiesel

Trae,<br><br>If you look at TST's chart [http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm]<br>you'll see if you have a manual, you likely have a 175hp engine; auto is 160. That's why different plates are recommended. In either case, you could have gone to a bigger plate than what you bought. That is assuming you install it as it was meant to be, not slid all the way forward.<br><br>Different profiles for different pumps, injectors, and desired results. If you slide any of them very far one way or the other, you have just completey changed the fuel delivery characteristics.<br><br>More boost is a benefit to help burn more fuel. IMO, just blocking the wastegate is not the answer- opening to control peak boost reduces exhaust pressure and heat. The boost elbow is not the best answer either. A small adjustable regulator can be fabricated that will supply rock-steady maximum without over-pressure spikes. A similar item can be purchased on eBay, but has to be reworked a little for best use on our trucks.

rharveysr

The 180 pumps were also used on the California trucks(97 5 speeds)..<br><br>Rick

Trickytrae

Wow quess i opened a can of worms on this one. With my 4:10s and 5sp im not looking for a hot rod, just would like to have a little more hp on the lower end when pulling corn and sow beans to the elevator. What kind of or what is the name of the adjustable boost item I need to look for on EBay?<br><br>Thanks Trickytrae

rharveysr

For some low end with out the extra smoke...I have been told a set of 215 stock injectors on the smaller pumps work real well..

Rick

BIG&BAD

[quote author=Trickytrae link=board=7;threadid=13604;start=0#128283 date=1050427614]<br>Wow quess i opened a can of worms on this one. With my 4:10s and 5sp im not looking for a hot rod, just would like to have a little more hp on the lower end when pulling corn and sow beans to the elevator. What kind of or what is the name of the adjustable boost item I need to look for on EBay?<br><br>Thanks Trickytrae <br>[/quote]<br>just a wastegate boost fitting (elbow)

dalton4

Trickytrae, as per the plate chart, the #10 with your engine if stock will be 200 hp and 550 torque.

VinDiesel

Trae,<br><br>Do a search for &quot;manual boost controller&quot; the one I bought was &quot;MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER TURBO CIVIC ECLIPSE !&quot;<br><br>The tee is 1/8&quot; pipe thread, at the one end a 3/8&quot;-24 allen head bolt is used for adjustment. Though possibly not necessary for your particular setting, I took it apart and ran a 3/8&quot;-24 tap in to cut the threads a little deeper. I also took one turn off the spring. Be careful, don't over tighten, you'll pull the brass threads. <br>There is another guy also selling what looks like the same thing, but I can't tell from his pic if his has the wastegate weep hole that insures quick response when you let off. <br><br>Again, this is a MUCH BETTER, more accurate way to adjust your boost than with a restrictor elbow.<br><br>The #10 may do what you want, it is mild enough that you can get away with sliding it forward some (1/16&quot;-1/8&quot and still maintain reasonable upper rpm fuel control. Just be sure to keep a watchful eye on the EGTs.<br>

VinDiesel

BTW, be sure to mark the location of the front edge of the stock plate with a sharp scribe or chisel on both sides of the pump opening before removing it. That gives you a reference point to work from if you go sliding your new plate around.<br>I mention this because some instructions only talk about using the template.

Trickytrae

Sounds like if it is going to be 200hp I should be good with my stock clutch, for awhile.<br><br>Thanks to all, keep the threads rolling.