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Fuel Gauge Isolator?

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Old 04-14-2005, 08:23 PM
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P.J
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Question Fuel Gauge Isolator?

Is this a must have, or is there a slim to none chance of leakage into the cab? Worth the $?
Old 04-14-2005, 08:46 PM
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3+ years - no isolator - no leaks - no problemo
Old 04-14-2005, 08:46 PM
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I do not understand the question. The fuel gauge is electronic, and there are no fuel lines inside the cab if fuel is what you are worried about leaking.
Old 04-14-2005, 09:03 PM
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Fuel Pressure gauge.
Mine is a mechanical gauge, no electric sender.

click here for a picture.
Old 04-15-2005, 06:08 AM
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Fuel PRESSURE Gauge:
That's what I thought I was talking about. Connected by a stainless braided line?
I was searching on one of our advertisers, they have a disclaimer (or maybe a way to get you to by the isolator)??
I thought it would be a standard answer.
Old 04-15-2005, 07:55 AM
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I've got the guage.. but still got to hook it up... The Banjo bolt is on the way and the guage will be connected without a isolator. I will have a needle valve to shutdown the fuel if there is a leak. I also heard that the valve also heep the pulses down so the needle on the guage doesn't bounce.
Old 04-15-2005, 10:08 AM
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Selling an isolator with a fuel pressure gauge is the law in some states, that's why you have some vendors telling you that one is required. It's just a general law that should apply to only flammable gassers not diesels.
Too much pulsation on a diesel fuel system anyway, the isolators don't last.
I would venture to say that after a few years 95% of isolators no longer work. The diaphragm has cracked, diesel is making it to the gauge and the owners are none the wiser.
Why bother spending your money on something that will fail?
Old 04-15-2005, 10:36 AM
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Originally posted by Shovelhead
Fuel Pressure gauge.
Mine is a mechanical gauge, no electric sender.

click here for a picture.
Your pressure seems a bit low, if you ask me...
Old 04-15-2005, 06:31 PM
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Thanks Infidel. I was somewhat thinking that, but wasn't sure by the way the wording on the ad was. Not that they were totally pushing it on me, just kinda had me wonder what the chances of having a fuel leak/smell in the cab. I figure if it's buttoned up tight it should stay that way.
Old 04-15-2005, 06:37 PM
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Explained to the wife tonight at dinner why I NEED to get set up with some gauges. Trying to get at least 200K out this truck, seems reasonable to me.
Old 04-15-2005, 11:57 PM
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Geno's sells a hose that hooks up to the shrader valve on the stock bajo bolt at the IP. Then go to stainless hose to run to the cab. That is how mine's hooked up and no problems. PM me if you need stainless hoses. I got several that I don't need and they are cheap.
Old 04-16-2005, 12:26 AM
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The needle valve will not only keep your gauge steady but will protect it from the pulses. Ask me how I know this... DOH! Fortunately, Isspro was kind enough to replace the gauge N/C. The needle valve can act as a shut off should you need.
A little diesel resistant thread tape would be an added option to a long lasting connection.
A word of caution; SS braided hose can be very abrasive. Not a good thing if it's lying against any wireing, etc. and bouncing around behind your dash somewhere.
I've tried several isolators and none can stand up to the fuel or the pressure. A waste of money if you ask me.
3+ years for me with "fuel in the cab" and no problems here.
Old 04-16-2005, 06:55 AM
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Originally posted by Robert Stohl
A little diesel resistant thread tape would be an added option to a long lasting connection.
Where can I buy this, Is this similar to Teflon tape, but for Diesel Fuel?
Old 04-16-2005, 07:21 AM
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Stick with liquid teflon pipe sealant from either Permatex or Loctite. The tape can get into the system and block small orfices.
Old 04-16-2005, 08:34 AM
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Permatex #2 from any auto parts is the best thread sealer for diesel fuel.
Using any kind of teflon tape on a fuel system can turn into an expensive headache down the road. Save teflon tape for pipes, not for vehicles.


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