Is the electronics package on top of the VP an integral part of the pump body or is it removable? Meaning, can it be "unplugged" and mounted away from the pump?

I've never had one apart so I have to ask.

Also, the typical "stealth" cover. I know it replaces the top cover of the electronics package. Can it be used as a template to make a finned heatsink? My bro in Edmonton has a milling machine and I know he needs a project. I'm going to pursue this as well as a fuel cooler. I have a few minutes left out of my 24 hr day, so I think I can fit it in!

Jeff

 

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=17275

VP pics

 

That is my concern with the heat sink, guys are talking of monuting it to the cover but how, you can't glue or stick it as the bonding will insulate heat. You can't rivet it or similar due to internal working of the pump I would guess, the only way I can see is to have a fiinned cover machined like homstead mentioned. Homestead have you checked the price on the moroso unit?

Here is the link to the 6.5 electronic relocation kit.SAme basic idea as us and the testing temperatures are very interesting
http://www.mwfi.com/cooler/fsd_cooler.htm

J

 

Homestead, if you decide to do that finned VP cover I'd like one to. I'd be more than willing to pay for the materials and labor.

 

I haven't had a chance to look into a price on the Moroso cooler. I think that it's one of those "if it works, that's the price" kind of thing no matter what cooler you decide to use. I'm personally not to worried about the price of a cooler and some fittings. They will be greatly cheaper than a VP.

As for the finned heatsink for the VP. My brother and I are getting together for a road trip in the next week or 2 so I will have some time to go over some details with him about it. I'm thinking if you really wanted to get crazy, you could easily put in a tapped boss for a temp guage also. MMMMMMMM..........More guages!!

Can't really even think about a price until 1 is made. The thing is small enough that I'm sure scrap aluminum from the depot would more than suffice. Would for sure keep the costs down.

I will be looking into it for sure. I'll have to pick up a steath cover to use as a template. I'll go hit Piers when I'm done at the coast and get one from him.

Jeff

 

I'll give you a suggestion, the cover is flat and not too large. You can purchase heat sinks for radio work or scrounge one from an older radio. All you would have to do is cut it out and drill the holes on a mill with an end mill as a counter sink.

 

I kinda have a problem with a finned VP electrics top...it'll get hot air from the engine fan.
To test, after driving the truck enough to get right hot, raise the hood and feel the injector pump...it'll be just warm if there's plenty of fuel in the tank. Now touch anything anything else under the hood that's not attached to the motor or it's fluid lines but gets engine fan air blown on it. I haven't done that yet but will soon. I like the simplicity of a heat sink but only if it'll cool the VP electrics as good or better than fuel.

 

I've used a infra red heat gun on mine and it was usually between 145 and 165 after running down the road.
Let it idle after a run down the highway and it gets to 165. When I first pull over it is around 148-150. I put a cooling tube from the top left side of the radiator down to the VP. This has reduced the dead pedal issues.
Of course, it didn't save it!!! May have given it some extra time .
New pump is ordered.
Still running, but is un acceptable.

 

Clunk....

I agree with the fact that the VP electronics are hot to the touch when you raise the hood and put your hand on it. So is everything else under the hood. But even in that "hot" environment, any air passing over/thru a finned aluminum heatsink is going to remove heat from that same part. Anything and everything helps.

As an example, open your computer case up and put your hand on the power source heatsink. It will be very hot to the touch, but it is there for a reason, to remove heat.
When your dealing with forced air thru the rad at speed, you have a very large volume of air blasting thru the engine compartment. Sure it's heated by going thru the rad core itself, but it is taking heat from the rad and engine compartment.

I see no reason why any kind of heatsink on the top of the VP wouldn't help. For the price of a fist size blob of aluminum and an hour or 2 of machining time, I have nothing to lose.

 

When the 216 bug bit me , I converted the transmission cooler to fuel cooler and got a new transmission cooler and positioned it in between the intercooler and radiator centered to the (fan)clutch. Run it for 40k before changing the vp. Noticed less smoke(not "dumping" all the heat at the end of the intercooler I suppose) Eliminated the factory banjo's , drilled fuel filter housing to 1/4 npt and run 1/2" ID hose all the way. Routed the cooler between fuel pumps and filter
Been in freezing cold once, saw a modest 10 psi versus 15+

 

I guess mine just don't get hot JFox.

Homestead, after getting home from work, mine is just lukewarm. Everything else under the hood is hot but the sides and top of the VP is just warm with the fuel tank at 1/2 full.
Anybody filled up their fuel tank lately?

AJ2, I like your trans cooler idea. I also like the finned filter housing idea since I'm thinking about a prefilter.

 

If you go with the finned cooler on the vp, make sure you use some kind of thermal transfer gel between the heatsink and where you mount it. You can get it at most computer stores or oder it on line. This will greatly improve its heat absorption.


Now if you want to get real fancy and make one that will work really well then you might want to go with a bi-metal

Copper absorbs heat and conducts it very well but it does not dissipate it well. The aluminum does not absorb heat very well but it will disipate it much better than copper.

So if you could go with a copper base and aluminum fins that would be your best bet for heat dissipation.

I have done a lot of research into this but only for CPU coolers. I overclock my computer by a rather large margin and need to get rid of the heat from it. My next cooler for my computer will be a water cooler as this is the best way to do it.

Now my theory is to go with the transmission cooler but instead of having cool the fuel, let it cool either antifreeze or winsheild washer fluid that gets circulated via a small pump of some sort through a cooling block attached to the VP.

This way during the winter you could turn off the pump and not worry about getting to cold, but I dont think this is an issue (the being to cold).

What do you guys think?

 

The cooling block, either my idea or what Greenworks was talking about could be held in place with some kind of clamp or banding, Can you say BIG zipties.

But be sure and use the thermal heat transfer gel as this will help incase it does not come into very good contact with the mounting point.

 

I installed my heatsinks using a tad bit of JB weld on the very corners of the heatsink. I used the goop to aid the tranfer of heat to the heatsink.

 

Two thoughts...

I'd like to see a pic of the "cooling tube" solution that someone above posted. Or at least a more detailed description of the route, the tube itself, and where it was placed on the VP44.

Another thought... may be similar in expense... cut a hole in your hood above the VP44 and add a smooth ram-air thinga-ma-bobby to force air from the outside straight down to the VP44. Obviously, a more permanent solution once you cut the hood. Also, it would really work well the faster you went. Probably anything over 25 would be effective though. And, you could trick it out by adding a small windshield washer pump and a mist type tip to it and have it spray water inside the ram-air scoop by the press of a button. Would DEFINITELY cool the air even more. Don't some of the NASCAR guys do something like this for cooling brakes?

You could probably find lots of styles of hood scoops to suit your taste and budget. And the water sprayer BOMB would be very cheap... and kinda fun too.

Just thinking outloud too.

Steve