smoke_pedal

I don't know about you guys, but I did the free gsk with a 1/2 " washer, and I had a problem with the throttle being too sensitive at low rpms.

I remedied this by shimming the springs differently. I took two sockets, and cut them to make shims of different thicknesses.

The outer spring is the idle spring. I didn't shim it any.

The second spring in takes over once the outer spring is compressed enough to let it start taking over. I made shims out of a socket. I think it was 13/16 6 point. I made them just over 1/16" thick. I didn't measure it. I just eyeballed it.

The third spring in is pretty stiff. It takes over once the next two outer springs are compressed enough to let it start getting compressed. I made shims for it out of a 9/16" 6 point socket. They were about 3/16" thick.

I put it all together set at the same height I had for the retainers with the governor washer mod. I think it was about 2 clicks out from stock.

After driving it, I noticed it made it a lot more part throttle friendly. Before, I had a hard time locking the torque converter going down the highway. Now It works as well as it ever did stock.

I just used a 4" cutting wheel to cut the sockets to make the shims. I ground them using a pair of vise grips, and a bench grinder after I cut them from the socket. I am not sure about the size of the sockets. You want the one that just fits over the center, but doesn't overlap the second step for your small shims. For your big shims, you want the size that will only cover the second step on the retainer. You want to go through the side plug. going through the afc housing is a pain in the butt. You will drop something in the pump. I dropped the retainer, and the old governor washer in there. I did get them out with a little bit of hassle. Just save yourself some time, and go through the side.

It starts defueling at about 3100 rpm, and free revs up to about 3400. I am not sure about all of the differences in pump springs, but this is on a 96 180 pump.

I hope this helps some of you. The only downside to this mod is that the transmission shifting is less exciting, more predictable . Most of us are happy with our free free GSK for the P-Pump bunch, but I wanted to take it to the next step and get the driveability back. I just noticed the regular smiley face doesn't get used very much anymore.

big jimmy

Thanks....

nivram

smoke_pedal;
Just run a cross your modified washer fix. After reading it I was wondering if one used two washers, one, just under the dia. of the 1st spring and a 2nd just big enough for the 3rd spring, if one would get similer results as you have with your sockets cut the way you have. They would line up better on the nut. what do you think? I just made two about .93" inch outer dia. It would not take much to make the second one a little smaller.
Marv.

12valve

smoke_pedal;

is your throttle not touchy at all now? more like stock?

i still have a hard time imagining how you exactly did it.
sounds like a good idea! my shortened 96 215 needs a little more rpms

smoke_pedal

I definately have a lot better throttle now. it is almost like stock. it moved up the sensitivity point. it used to be idle, 800, 900, 1000, 1100, vroom 2100, 2200, 2400...... up to 3200

Now, the jump takes place at about 2300, and if you are under load, you don't feel it. Most of us don't have a problem with this because my trans shifts below this at most part throttle conditions. if my engine is at 2200, I usually am floored by then.

I was just looking back at old posts, and saw you guys replied, sorry for the lag time. I am on deployment right now, and the internet is a little unreliable.