free GSK for the p pump bunch
#196
I did this mod also to my 1995 4x4 auto.
I gotta tell ya that yes, it did give me an added rpm band without defueling but it REALLY killed the low end power. I started with 23.8mm OD, 13mm ID and 1.55mm thickness as adviced in this thread earlier on. I tried adjusting everything one can adjust from AFC, plate, starwheel and smoke screw. Result was crap.
So I hated this mod and opened it back up the next day for following:
I started figuring out which part does what inside the governor. Naturally the stiffest spring of the pack of three springs "gives in" first as rpm arises. We can outrule the idle spring from equation because we already know it's the biggest dia. spring.
So the next stiffest spring is the one which deals on low and midrange power due to its activation being the next "in line" what it comes to rotating the governor assembly. The smallest dia. spring (with lowest spring rate) only comes to play when all the stiffer ones start to compress which requires the governor to spin fast.
And why do the smallest spring come to play only at this point? Simply due to bigger ones excessing the small ones in spring rate and therefore the smallest one has no impact on the total governor weight movement untill a certain point of rpms is met.
I grinded down the OD of forementioned shims to 18mm therefore ONLY to stiffen the smallest springs. I didnt want to go back to original setup which starts to defuel way too low and was not to my liking. I installed the washers (18mm OD, 13mm ID, 1.55mm thickness) into their place in the retainers. I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner, put in small quantity of axle grease to the washer to bind it together with the retainer and not dropping it and then installed them with 0,040" protrusion.
Fired the truck up and let it warm a bit and then took it out. Idle exactly where it's supposed to be. No hickups, nothing wrong. Worked like charm in every way. Then gave it "lead" on the throttle just so much that converter would stay locked on third gear. Boost was instant and it really accelerates now. It pulls all the way up to 3100rpm without mishaps or hesitation or defueling. After 3100 defueling starts.
I only needed few extra hundred rpms without defueling and this is the best setup I've had so far. So usable powerband is now from idle to 3100 and low, mid and highrange power is present. Just wanted to share this with you if it helps somebody with their governor blues.
I gotta tell ya that yes, it did give me an added rpm band without defueling but it REALLY killed the low end power. I started with 23.8mm OD, 13mm ID and 1.55mm thickness as adviced in this thread earlier on. I tried adjusting everything one can adjust from AFC, plate, starwheel and smoke screw. Result was crap.
So I hated this mod and opened it back up the next day for following:
I started figuring out which part does what inside the governor. Naturally the stiffest spring of the pack of three springs "gives in" first as rpm arises. We can outrule the idle spring from equation because we already know it's the biggest dia. spring.
So the next stiffest spring is the one which deals on low and midrange power due to its activation being the next "in line" what it comes to rotating the governor assembly. The smallest dia. spring (with lowest spring rate) only comes to play when all the stiffer ones start to compress which requires the governor to spin fast.
And why do the smallest spring come to play only at this point? Simply due to bigger ones excessing the small ones in spring rate and therefore the smallest one has no impact on the total governor weight movement untill a certain point of rpms is met.
I grinded down the OD of forementioned shims to 18mm therefore ONLY to stiffen the smallest springs. I didnt want to go back to original setup which starts to defuel way too low and was not to my liking. I installed the washers (18mm OD, 13mm ID, 1.55mm thickness) into their place in the retainers. I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner, put in small quantity of axle grease to the washer to bind it together with the retainer and not dropping it and then installed them with 0,040" protrusion.
Fired the truck up and let it warm a bit and then took it out. Idle exactly where it's supposed to be. No hickups, nothing wrong. Worked like charm in every way. Then gave it "lead" on the throttle just so much that converter would stay locked on third gear. Boost was instant and it really accelerates now. It pulls all the way up to 3100rpm without mishaps or hesitation or defueling. After 3100 defueling starts.
I only needed few extra hundred rpms without defueling and this is the best setup I've had so far. So usable powerband is now from idle to 3100 and low, mid and highrange power is present. Just wanted to share this with you if it helps somebody with their governor blues.
#198
Could be. You will know you have gone "too tight" when the throttle "hangs".
Are you referring to the idle stop bolt?
If so, it is at the back of the IP casting. The somewhat rounded head holds the throttle arm up (the arm actually hits the bolt head). Below the casting is a lock nut (10mm wrench size). You must first loosen the lock nut before adjusting the stop bolt. It can be touchy- go about 1/8 turn at a time.
Are you referring to the idle stop bolt?
If so, it is at the back of the IP casting. The somewhat rounded head holds the throttle arm up (the arm actually hits the bolt head). Below the casting is a lock nut (10mm wrench size). You must first loosen the lock nut before adjusting the stop bolt. It can be touchy- go about 1/8 turn at a time.
#202
Sure thing,
it's natural to share this stuff because at least to me it gave great satisfaction. Why not also others. This is not a race winning mod but a small thing. But a good one.
Satisfaction through two specific washers... maaan are we weird or what?
it's natural to share this stuff because at least to me it gave great satisfaction. Why not also others. This is not a race winning mod but a small thing. But a good one.
Satisfaction through two specific washers... maaan are we weird or what?
#203
What I've noticed is that these engines do have a lot of variance in the setups and how they react to mods. I would say that pumps with different #CPs react differently to such mods and everything has an impact on everything.
So I would quesstimate that 4wheelinfreak*s problems mentioned earlier may relate to differences in pump setups or the overall or part tune of his pump.
How have you tuned it to smoke in various situations? Deadstop accel? 35->55 accel? with or without torq conv lock or do you have a manual?
How much does it smoke? Too little? Too much? Does something wrong when used in some particular way? Not?
So I would quesstimate that 4wheelinfreak*s problems mentioned earlier may relate to differences in pump setups or the overall or part tune of his pump.
How have you tuned it to smoke in various situations? Deadstop accel? 35->55 accel? with or without torq conv lock or do you have a manual?
How much does it smoke? Too little? Too much? Does something wrong when used in some particular way? Not?
#204
sorry i dont have anything posted about my truck yet, it has a auto, i have the star wheel cranked, my fuel plate is ground down to about a 10, planning on going to a 2 or 4 here soon, smokes like alot when i floor it from a deadstop, smokes like a chimney when the converter locks in at 40 and i slowly accell, and i get a fairly good stream of smoke if i keep it matted. gonna do the POT trick and mess with the washeds some more when i get the truck back from getting the rear axle fixed.
#205
Mine smokes a lot less in similar kinda situations. I followed this link's pieces of advice by Got...Diesel what it comes to the amount of smoke. And you have a #10(ish) so this also explains the differences we have in spinning our motors.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...7100-pump.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...7100-pump.html
#206
Do you have to work on the gov spring through the top of the pump or can you work on them where the big cap is on the side of the pump??? I've read about guys doing it both ways but it seem to me it's better to do it on the side of the pump...
#207
I'd recommend the plug on the side. Shutoff solenoid needs to be removed for that but it's only two bolts. I never even considered to do it from the top. Can be done both ways as said many times before.
#208
why s it that on the 97 pump they rev to 4200 rpm wih the washer mod? cant figure it out..... hahahaha ive done a few of these mods and dads tuck and cousins truck both reach 4k as mine only likes to see 3k
#210
Just got done putting in some washers and getting her all back together. I've got zero experience with diesels let alone tearing apart p-pumps, but I consider myself quite mechanically inclined so I gave it a whirl.
Idles perfect, no hang-ups. But I didn't see any increase in RPM's. Throttle response is 1000 times better.
Now all I really got out of reading this thread [yes I read every single post] is that the outer most [largest] spring effects idle. The other two combined are your governor's?
If I used a washer that was too small and was only grabbing the inner most [smallest] spring, would I get the results I'm getting? Or do I just need to keep turing in a click or two to get those RPM's up?
Any and all help would be fantastic!
Idles perfect, no hang-ups. But I didn't see any increase in RPM's. Throttle response is 1000 times better.
Now all I really got out of reading this thread [yes I read every single post] is that the outer most [largest] spring effects idle. The other two combined are your governor's?
If I used a washer that was too small and was only grabbing the inner most [smallest] spring, would I get the results I'm getting? Or do I just need to keep turing in a click or two to get those RPM's up?
Any and all help would be fantastic!