to start off, again, what is the "perfect" psi i should be looking at?

now, i got the steering column pod, and i don't recommend this to anyone, man did i have such a horrible time trying to get that thing to fit, but anywho, after i got it on i noticed that my gear selector indacator ( you know the little red thing that indicates whether your in P R N D 1 2) ok, that is not lined up right anymore, when i put it in R it goes between P and R and when it's in D it's between N and D. so what or why did this happen? or did mayby it been this way for awhile and i just now noticed?

well that's all for now, thanks.............

 

I'm not going to tell you twice


As long as you know what gear you are in, all is good, right?

 

Any psi lower than 8 is not good, below 5 is immediate time to replace LP. Ideally you want to see >12psi at idle, and >7-8 psi at WOT.

No answer on the gear indicator, sorry.

 

ok, here are my FP #s but please give me a bright side to look at.

i get 11 psi at idle, about 7 at cruising, and i can suck it down to 0 at WOT!

and i'm sure everything is good, with the connections and all i mean, i ran fuel in the cab b/c i havent heard good things at all about the whole isolator thing, but what i'm really trying to say is, how far should the needle valve be open, i just opened it until i got a reading, could this throw something off if it ain't open enough?

 

I don't think it will throw anything off, I run mine barely cracked open. It just makes the gauge reaction slower (like when you start the truck). As for your fuel pressure, I would run and go get a Holley Blue and plumb it up and forget about it. Maybe not the best setup, but it has worked great for me. Good Luck!

 

caleb, please enlighten me on this holley blue that you speak of!

 

Well, they are mainly used as a fuel pump for gassers, but work great on our trucks too. I just took mine and placed it right after the tank, there is some stainless line right there that I cut and I used some rubber fuel line and slipped it over the lines and clamped it all. You will see what I mean if you look just past the tank. Anyways, it just goes inline right in that spot. Some people remove the factory lift pump and just run the holley. I run both the lift pump and the holley as a "Pusher" pump. I t works great, I have it regulated to 20 psi. at an idle, 16 cruise, and about 14 WOT. It does come with the regulator. You can get one at Napa, Auto Zone, whatever is close. Its a pretty cheap fix. Hope this helps!

 

i got the Bully dog fuel system from Jegs for cheap. it is great and i also have 23 idle and 15 wot, not running the regulator don't need it.
Try shifting the lever all the way down to 1st and sometimes this helps the indicator find it's correct spot.
see ya scotte

 

how cheap?

 

About $240.00 bucks..................comes with pump, all hardware, and enough hose to get to your injector pump!!


~Nick

 

dang, i can get the fass pump for about 300 can't i?

 

Depends on which FASS you go with......most are up around $500 just for the pump and then you have to get the bigger lines from the pump to the injector pump.



~Nick

 

You can get a Holley for about 120 bucks.

 

and is that all that i'll need, if not, what else is needed, i'm really thinkin that i'm gonna end up doing this so can i get some detailed instructions and a parts list or somehting like that pleeeeeease

 

Nothing much you need. Just cut the S.S. line and get some rubber fuel line and a fitting for the "in" and the "out" side of the pump to attach to the fuel line and thats it. And a few hose clamps. You can wire it however you want, but I ran a relay from the stock lift pump harness so it will fire when the factory pump does. Its a pretty easy install. I would recomend running the regulator, no need in pushing to much fuel, I hear it can be hard on the VP. I have been meaning to turn mine down for a while but I havent got around to it! But it's probably no big deal. So, thats it, pretty easy to do.

OH...BTW, the pump mounts to the frame.