I still have to install my FP gauge....have been searching all over for the 1/8" needle valve. Home Depot, Ace, Kunkel's, True Value, Western Auto....no luck. Have a couple other places to try tomorrow though.

My question is....what are the opinions regarding running an isolator or not? I was all ready to run without but after laying it all out I am a little leary about running fuel up into the cab? I read a post on here a little while back about an isolator that would hold up to diesel fuel...I think it was a guy from DPPI?

 

Enterprise Engine has them also....

I personally do not want fuel in my cab. I witnessed one truck that leaked a little and the guys truck still smells like diesel. Also not a good idea to have fuel in cab if there is a bad wreck.

You will have some that will chime in and say it is ok but my opinion, for what it's worth, is DO NOT RUN FUEL LINES no matter how small into your cab!

J

 

Got my 1/8" needle valve from NAPA.

I don't know either. Kinda don't like the idea of running lines in the cab. But don't like the idea of having to replace isolators.

So, my next task, is run the gauge with 1/8" copper tubing. I figure it will seal better then the nylon boost/oil pressure style hose and be harder to damage.

I haven't installed it yet, but we will see some time in the next week, how it works out.

 

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If you run quality parts and do the install right you wont have any problems and you wont have to worry about your isolator going south. The needle valve is only cracked open so even if you did rupture a line the leak would be very small.
IMHO scrap the isolator and do it right once

 

If you take your time and do the install right, you will not have to worry about fuel leaking into the cab. Everyone I know who runs fuel inside has never had any problems what so ever.

The needle valve can be very tricky to find also. You might want to try and call up some local welding supply shops or maybe some A/C suppliers and see if they have any. When I couldn't find one in this area, I had to get one from my gauge supplier person (Merrick), haha. You might want to try summittracing.com or jegs.

 

I got my needle valve from Mcmasters.com its carbon steel with viton seal real high quality
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=38181 just do a search for needle valves in the product finder on there web page.

 

I use this needle valve
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=

 

Ok....I think I'll give it a try installing w/o the isolator. One more question....I got all of the fittings per Moose10's picture and also got some 1/4" ID fuel hose that I was going to run from the fuel filter housing to the gauge. I was told the fuel hose is rated up to about 160 psi. That should be find to use....right?

 

You might want to rethink that....bad idea there is too much vibration and the line will eventually rupture.

Try 1/4" hydraulic line (like Moose10's setup) or braided S.S.

 

No expert here, but I can't see why that hose you got wouldn't work. If you ever bury a 30psi fuel pressure guage, something is wrong....but the hose will hold up
I used some 1/4ID hydraulic hose from NAPA....I think it was rated at 300psi....it's some thick stuff.
Just fyi, when I installed mine, I left the needle valve closed, started the truck, then just cracked the valve open until I got a good reading and the guage. It's been that way ever since. Whenever I change the fuel filter, I open and close the valve a couple times, just to keep it free.

 

I am running a rubber fuel injection tester hose off the scrader valve and into a needle valve. Doesn't seem to be much of any vibration on the copper tubing. Also, the copper tubing is inside some 1/4"(thin wall) air brake hose from gauge to firewall.

I could get 1/4" hydraulic hose too, but that is huge. I had doubts about running that down from my A-pillar.

 

well just a friendly warning - your choice I guess. I dont think many guys are using hard copper line. Sounds like a recipe for disaster. Would be quite a mess to clean up if it ever leaked and you didnt catch it in time.

 

I helped my neighbor unstick the front wheel joint with the kingpin in it on his ferd.
3ft. cheaterbar on the spindle and a 12" cheater bar on the grease gun trying to get it a shot of grease in it to loosen it and hopefully restore normal function. After cleaning the zerks and much work, it took a little grease and quickly loosened to working freely.
I wonder how much grease gun pressure you develop with a 12" cheaterbar in the hands a helluva man...as a fireman, he was the one they'd have to bring the 300lb women out of a burning house.
I like my cheapo grease gun extension lines.

 

Quote:

I wonder how much grease gun pressure you develop with a 12" cheaterbar in the hands a helluva man

Even without a cheater most grease guns will develop over 20,000 psi. I always thought it was cool on the older track layer tractors that the tracks were tightened with a grease gun. Amazing to move tons with a little grease gun.

 

Just a side question on a fuel pressure gauge!!!

My buddy just put Di-Procols in his 02...30psi fuel pressure w/isolator (Kyle@Extreme Diesel Performance said you HAD to use one with the Di-Procols).

He's getting what I would call screwy readings on a 10K mile old lift pump...starts off at 10, then falls to 3, then 2, then 1, then jumps back to 10, then falls back down, then jumps up again.

Does this sound like air in the gauge system, or another lift pump?? Also, do you really HAVE to use the isolator on a Di-Procol??

Thanks,
Chris