DodgeDawg2500

Alright guys,

Pardon me as I am still very new to the diesel world. I will get right to the point.

I have searched this forum pretty extensively, but am still not sure.

I am going to install a FP gage, but have quite a few lingering questions.

First off my engine is still stock and plan to keep it that way for a while, but I have read about the value of the FP gage.

1) Mechanical or Electric (which brand is more reputable)?

2) Where to place, Schrader valve before IP, buy new fuel filter cap from Genos, or any other suggestions?

3) How involved is the install (time, tools, etc..)?


Thank you guys for the advice and suggestions.


James

mopar-or-no-car

It is a pretty easy install. I have a mechanical gauge. All I did was tee into the fuel line with some brass fittings, but I'm sure other people know of better ways to hook it up. Mine works fine and I did use an isolator(just becouse it came with my kit) Most people say that the isolators are nothin but trouble, but mines been ok so far.

DodgeDawg2500

How long have you had the gage w/ isolator?

Which brand did you go with?

Any trouble with fuel leaks, T'ing it up?

Thanks for the reply.

Tate

I'm running an autometer electric in both my trucks. 3 years on the one gauge, never an issue. I got some tapped banjos initially from Geno's garage, but have gone to big lines with JIC fittings, so I have it tapped directly into the filter housing (not an option on the newer housings). Tapped banjo is my bolt, nice and clean install.

mishkaya

I personally prefer a mechanical gauge over an electrical one, I do not use an isolator anymore either. I did, but with the engine vibrations it gave me nothing but grief. I now use a needle valve and have fuel straight to the gauge. As a precaution I am using braided stainless steel lines, and the way I see it, even if I did have a leak, it would only be a drip as the needle valve is almost completely closed to eliminate the pulsations from the VP44, and I could always just close it completely anyway.
Any brand is good (Autometer, ISSPRO, Pricol) for the mechanical gauges; it's more a preference of aesthetics than anything else really. I have both ISSPRO EV and DiPricol Optix, and I think the Optix gauges match the factory look the best, but others may think otherwise.
I suggest tapping the fuel line as far away from the VP44 as possible (once again because of the pulsations of the VP44), but after the fuel filter, so you know exactly what fuel pressure is being delivered to your injection pump. A fuel filter cap from Geno's would make things easy, just remember to plumb your gauge so you can easily remove the line before filter changes.
Install time can vary greatly depending on your wrenching skills, how picky you are with your setup and how many trips to the hardware store you need to make to get those extra widgets you didn't think about before the install. All said, my first gauge install ended up taking about three hours because of this. No special tools really, and the install is really straightforward all said and done.
Good luck.
mishkaya

Fisherguy

I agree with Mishkaya, I also have a Dipricol mechanical with a needle valve but have mine installed right at the CP3. With the needle valve you only need to open it v-e-r-y little, just enough to read the pressure but not so much you get a whole lotta pulsing at the gauge.

I had to wire my valve in that postion, the engine's vibrations tended to open the valve and I got the pulsing at the gauge.

The pulsing seemed worse before I installed my AD100, not sure why that is, maybe it's just my imagination?
I get no pulsing at all now, but maybe that's just cuz I wired the valve so it won't open anymore?

Pics in my gallery...

BTW, if your trucks a stick you may want to consider boost and pyrometer as well, if it's an auto you should get a tranny temp too...

DodgeDawg2500

Alright.

Thanks for the great info.

motochamp250

by pulsating at the gauge...do ya'll mean like the needle in the gauge pulsating or what?

mishkaya

Yes, that's exactly it; and if that weren't bad enough you usually get a nasty hum or vibration to go along with it. I hear it can destroy the gauge if subjected to it long enough.
mishkaya

PaulDaisy

I have done this for a friend with your year truck (mine is done too but my setup is different for 98), and the simplest thing to do is to take off your banjo bolt from the bottom of fuel filter can, drill and tap it for 1/8" NPT thread (21/64" drill bit), install a hardware store needle valve (I used an Ace Hardware piercing valve) and run a 1/8" line from it into the cab, connected to a mechanical gauge with no isolator. Open the valve just a bit and you are done.

Fisherguy

No, it's a lot simpler to just put the needle valve at the CP3.

motochamp250

well i have the hum when i romp on it, but my needle doesnt move abnormally.....

motochamp250

do yall think that will crash a gauge?

mishkaya

No, you should be fine as long as the needle isn't bouncing all over the place. I just couldn't put up with the constant humming. A needle valve works wonders!
mishkaya

motochamp250

ya mine hums...but the needle is constant....i was going to put a needle in...but i didnt have the right fittings to make it work.....so i got a screw down cutoff....i suppose i could screw it down almost all the way but then my gauge wasnt as responsive....i guess i will leave it....