Formula 1 Mach 4 Injector???
08-28-2007, 12:10 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 3,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are leaks under each nut today??? All the o-rings looked great last night? Does a guy tighten down the injector cap first or the line nut first. The way I did it last night was to hand tight the injector cap down, then tighten the injector line nut and then torque down the injector cap. Is this right?
08-28-2007, 12:34 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
^^ditto, sorta.
I screw the bolt into the top of the injector and tap it all the way down with a mallet to make sure it's all the way down.
Then I do the clamp, but not all the way to tq. Snug the nut, then alternate clamp and nut.
I use a 19mm stubby for the line nuts. Prevents overtorque...
jh
I screw the bolt into the top of the injector and tap it all the way down with a mallet to make sure it's all the way down.
Then I do the clamp, but not all the way to tq. Snug the nut, then alternate clamp and nut.
I use a 19mm stubby for the line nuts. Prevents overtorque...
jh
08-28-2007, 12:47 PM
#19
Chapter President
Just thinkin out loud, but I would torque the injector hold down to the head first. I think that the tubes are being disturbed when you torque the injector down and not sealing. Do all the fuel connections last after the injectors are torqued.
08-28-2007, 01:29 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 3,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds great Dog. I bought new tubes this afternoon and o-rings. I'm going to take it all apart tonight again and try it that way and see how it turns out, hopefully no more leaks... I'm sure the leaks are causing the injectors to not pop properly...
08-28-2007, 01:44 PM
#21
Chapter President
I had a leak with mine as well. The fuel return rail had a crimped copper gasket to injector #3 and flooded the side of the engine.. Amazing what a little speck of paint can do.. 
I might be able to squeak out tonite if you want a hand..
I might be able to squeak out tonite if you want a hand..
08-28-2007, 01:56 PM
#22
Registered User
Service manual says to replace 'connecting tube' O-rings anytime you change injectors. Never understood this but....?
I finally did it this last time..... 4th set of injectors.... and the used o-rings looked brand new! But can't hurt to replace them.
Those connecting tubes are stout.... but you could have dinged up a tip, I suppose??
Ditto on tightening injector hold downs before putting any pressure on first fuel line nut, but i 'click' the connecting tube into the injector first. Think the book recommends this??
RJ
I finally did it this last time..... 4th set of injectors.... and the used o-rings looked brand new! But can't hurt to replace them.
Those connecting tubes are stout.... but you could have dinged up a tip, I suppose??
Ditto on tightening injector hold downs before putting any pressure on first fuel line nut, but i 'click' the connecting tube into the injector first. Think the book recommends this??
RJ
08-28-2007, 04:10 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 3,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds good guys, thanks for all the tips. I will put all new parts in tonight and see what happens. It just seems weird when I finally get the truck started after the injector install, the truck idles great, step on the fuel pedal and the idle shoots up to 1150 rpm??? Maybe an HRVP 44 issue? I'll be working on the ol' girl tonight if your bored Jason??? My nmber is 318-3376. Thanks...
08-28-2007, 04:36 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 7,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My HRVP would idle at 1k rpm if you touched the throttle after start. On cooler days, I bring the rpms up to 1200 or so to get the EGT's to 300, then let it fall back down. The HRVP would always hold it at 1k. It would also idle up when I was slowing down until about 15km/h, where it would go back to 850.
08-28-2007, 04:53 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 3,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other thing, I found the torque on the injector cap to be 80 inch pounds. Does anyone know the torque of the tube nut and is 80 inch pounds the right torque..
08-28-2007, 05:14 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Great Northwest!
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Injector hold down 89 in/lbs
High pressure tube nut 28 ft/lbs
Use a crows foot and a torque wrench. Torque settings are offset depending on crowsfoot position relative to centerline.
Always torque #2 to final spec and then do the rest. This eliminates issues with the air horn. Or better yet, I get it running with the air horn disconnected. Leaks are dealt with very easily.
Also, I snug the inhjector retainers to seat the injector. I then take the pressure off the retainer adn then tighten the tube nut to spec. Then I go back and torque the retainers. This way the crossover tube can find the center of the injector adn the retainer just holds it in place.
Dave
High pressure tube nut 28 ft/lbs
Use a crows foot and a torque wrench. Torque settings are offset depending on crowsfoot position relative to centerline.
Always torque #2 to final spec and then do the rest. This eliminates issues with the air horn. Or better yet, I get it running with the air horn disconnected. Leaks are dealt with very easily.
Also, I snug the inhjector retainers to seat the injector. I then take the pressure off the retainer adn then tighten the tube nut to spec. Then I go back and torque the retainers. This way the crossover tube can find the center of the injector adn the retainer just holds it in place.
Dave
08-28-2007, 09:02 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts