I bought this truck in non-running condition. The previous owner had a lot of high performance stuff on it, and I sort of assumed (bad, I know) that a piston or two had melted. I pulled the transmission today and found the flex plate all torn up. Motor is probably just fine. I will be putting it back together with a single turbo instead of the BD twins. Any suggestions for a flex plate?

 

Sorry I have no suggestions for a flex plate, but why are going to put it back together with a single turbo and not twins?

Cory

 

Well, if you arent going to do hard launches with it, put a stocker back in. If you need one that you can abuse,get the ATS billet flex plate.

 

Get a billet or laminated flexplate. I wouldn't put another stocker and risk that happening again.

Randy

 

I saw somone on EBay last summer selling a supposedly billet flex plate for I am thinking somewhere around a 100.00 bucks or so . It was some place out west and they were selling them all the time. I don't know if I would trust it it a race truck but in a daily driver it might be ok . Check EBAY !

 

Mostly because I don't have any need for the extra power. My bone stock 1999 is just fine. I'm not going completely stock, but the twins were just over the top for my type of use. I'm hoping to end up around 300 HP as opposed to the 650+ the previous owner had.
After checking around a bit, I settled on the BD Black flex plate, and ordered it from Pure Diesel Power, along with a few other bits and pieces.
Looking forward to putting it all back together soon!

 

I have heard stories of the Ebay flexplates being of poor quality.
The tabs on the back of the flywheel are not spaced correctly and the center hole that the TC "nub" goes into is out of center, thus allowing the flexplate to "waller" around on the crankshaft since there is nothing to keep it centered.
Just what I've heard.

 

i took the risk and bought a ebay flex plate

PRW is the name of the company. i paid $100 shipped.

 

I wouldn't buy any other flexplate than the BD diesels 29.3 sfi approved one.
http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...duct/index/20P

By the way, what's the chance by breaking the transmission when the stock flexplate gives up?

 

I would go with Suncoast!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

why spend all the money for an aftermarket when he is only going to 300 hp?

 

I would go laminated over billet.

The term "billet" might be the most overused and meaningless metallugical descriptor ever. All billet means is that the part started life as a chunk of metal, and a machining center carved away everything that didn't look like the final part.

Billet lead, tin, or gold is still billet-- is it good for a flexplate? HARDLY.

What matters more than being "billet" is what the metal actually is. Billet mild steel? 4340? 9310? 8620 chrome-moly? H13 tool steel?

A billet H13 flexplate would be heavy, and not actually "flex" much, but you'd never break it.

A laminated design is superior, imo, because it allows more flex for a given strength, or conversely, more strength at a given flex.

A flexplate needs both flex and strength. Billet that flexes also tends to break.

JH

 

I agree with the billet flexplate not really having enough flex and have read about them contributing to the breakage of some billet shaft's.

When I bought mine, with my very limited knowledge I relied on Mr. Goerend's more expert knowledge to steer me to the proper combination of part's. So far it has held up very well and I don't have any regrets of buying the billet flexplate.

Randy

 

Go to your dodge dealer and purchase a 6.7L flexplate. they're a little over a $120 and are a solid flexplate (no holes or webbing) It will directly replace your stock one no modifications. Have one on my '01 and it holds tons of power with hard launches.(33x17 slicks)

 

I seem to remember my parents saying something like "haste makes waste". I already ordered a BD Black flex plate. Now I wish I had delayed just a little.