Mike Holmen

I suggest that you start at washing the engine down very good. I put a rag around the line to see if the line was wet or was coming else where. Tighten everything up good. I just saw mine dripping out the back of the motor. Mine where easy, give it a try. Rent an engine hoist. Its pretty easy repair, if you have to rip into it.

oaborbag

Well after wiping the front part of the engine down and starting the truck up, I didn't have to wait long to find the issue. I saw drops of oil collecting on top of the bracket in the front I took a photo of. After the drops collected enough it started running down the bracket and all the way down the front of the engine. So in conclusion, the front of the HG has leaked.

So before I go through and change it I know I need a few things, maybe people can point me in the right direction.I already have studs on order, they should be here within the next few days.

I need: a head gasket, I've read a lot about a marine one. I need o-rings, I don't thing I've even seen these for sale anywhere, and I'm unsure of what exactly they do. I will need my head machined, and ready for o-rings. I'm going to need a engine hoist. I'm also going to need a rear engine hoist bracket, I noticed mine was missing, not sure why. I'm going to need some sort of instructions such as torque settings etc, and how good of a torque wrench should I use? I have a 70ish dollar one, I'll probably need a better one.

Did I miss anything?

Mike Holmen

You could get away with just running a stock head gasket and studs. If you're gonna stay under 50 psi, o-rings is over kill. If you do want o-rings, you need to find a local shop that does the mod/repair. I just put a bolts in the head at the back for the lifting sling that I have. Prior to reinstalling the head, I would do a leak/crack check. I just pressurize both sides the intake and exhaust to around 40-50psi. If you have a crack, air should come out. For a coolant crack, you can pressurize the coolant system to check leaks. Just drain down the block enough so you can remove the head without dumping coolant into the motor. There is a 1/2 npt port that I use for my tranny heat exchanger that works really good, it saves you from completely draining the system. A new thermostat, is good idea. I would buy a new torque wrench or get the old one calibrated. My old torque wrench cause two of my head gasket failures. I ran my studs torque up to 135 ft*lbs, in steps of 70, 90, 110, 125, 135. I used the dodge manual torque sequence for the head studs. If you go o-rings, there is a few more steps. You can leave on the head the exhaust manifold and intake plenum cover. It will come apart pretty fast, so make sure that you put everything back together as it comes apart. Label and mark the parts as they come off, it helps with reassembly i.e. rockers, push rods as these parts are matched together. Injector lines come off in two clumps, front and rear. The connector tubes and injectors can stay in the head, but be carefull as the nozzle tips are sticking out.

oaborbag

How much over 50psi can only studs go? I planned on eventually running twins at around this same psi and would hate to have to do it later if not now. I also looked at getting a rebuilt head from a few sites I looked at last night with o-rings already done. The price would obviously be higher this way, but as far as I know there are no sites around me that know anything about these trucks. So you would recommend a normal head gasket? I read up quite a few things last night about people only using stock head gaskets with high boost. But looks like I'll be doing it as soon as I decide on what I'm doing with the head, either reusing my current one and hope its fine, or getting a rebuilt one possibly with o-rings. headgasket does not change with o-rings correct? only firerings? I did some research that's what I gathered from that.

HOHN

No one knows for sure. Each truck varies a lot. If you're looking for a hard number you can rest on, you're out of luck.

JMO

oaborbag

Yeah I noticed that when my hg goes 2nd time I boost 50psi heh. Looks like I'll probably order a rebuilt head with o-rings cut. what difference in installation is there from that?

oaborbag

Probably going to order a head from puredieselpower. They seem to have the most information from what I have gathered, and can do the o-ringing before shipping it. I asked if it would come with the wire for the rings and am waiting for a reply, unless I'm totally wrong on how o-rings work. then I'll just need new gaskets, not sure how many I'll need to replace (intake, exhaust, etc.) but i guess i'm looking at the weekend after this coming one to get her all together, possibly going to start the teardown this weekend so it's ready.

paulb

If you are having them o-ring the head, then the wire should come pre-installed.

Paul