First drive with Mach 6's
#16
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I would run it till the gasket goes. My neighbor ran BD twins putting out 70psi for over 2yrs on the stock HG. (35k miles) In the mean time get studs and either install them or retorque your factory head bolts. Then find someone that does good work, get your pricing and start saving some money. If you start now and the HG lasts 1-2yrs you'll be in good shape when it goes.
But...after going out into my garage today I encountered an oil spot under the right front area of the truck, directly under the ac compressor. After doing lots of looking around with a drop light, i looked where the head meets the block around the side of the engine you can see, in the back and front, and didn't see any oil leaks, only stains that look like they have been there for a while. I also spotted fresh oil spots on some of my suspension parts on the passenger side which make me very curious. So I climbed under and noticed the bottom of my wastegate has a lot of oil on it, fresh oil. But how could that be there? It's far away from the engine and I don't see any other oil leaks anywhere else, only spots where it leaked to, such as the bottom of the oil pan, the drag link etc and the suspension parts I listed.
What could it be? I figure its not the HG because the truck ran fine on the way home yesterday, did not over heat, and I don't see anywhere that oil could have came out from the head and the oil looks normal just a little dark because I need to change it, but nothing out of the ordinary.
#19
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#21
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I checked both, they seemed fairly clean, the tube that goes down to the oil pan from the turbo seemed pretty oily where the rubber tube meets the metal one, I think I will wipe it clean drive it and see how it looks after a while, or see if it drops anymore oil, but the supply tube looked very clean. Thanks for the replies.
#22
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Turbo drain is leaking or you're turbo oil supply. Put your hand there and see where the oild is coming from. Sometimes you don't get the turbo drain flange tight. I have one supply line leak right in the middle. I just put asorbant under my truck as it has a habit of leaking from everywhere.
#23
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Fom what I could tell, it was the oil return tube on the bottom of the turbo that was leaking, I tightened both bolts up as tight as I could get them, the one on the inside near the engine is a lot harder to tighten that the outside one, but both are as tight as I can get them with the small ratchet that would fit. I don't see how that much oil could have came out though, but I'll see if it sill leaks but I think I did get a full turn on each bolt, thanks for the suggestion.
#24
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Try putting in a new gasket on the turbo drain. That should fix it. The oil is wet right where the gasket is located? Pull the drain tube off and clean the flange surface. 5 to 10 minutes you should be fixed up. You still using the stock piece or a home made drain?
#25
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It's still the stock oil drain tube with a new gasket that came with the turbo, if it still leaks I'll take it off and try to clean it up with a new gasket again. It's hard to get to the inside bolt so I'll wait to see if it still leaks before I mess with it again.
#27
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With comp on 5x5 was 1500 egt's
After test drive I came noticed more oil leaking, took pictures this time, and I think it is time for a new HG
not the greatest of pictures, but the first 3 are supposed to be where the head meets the block, the last two are shots from underneath the front of the engine. What do you think? The wet spots ran all the way down the front of the engine down to where you can see it on the oil pan in the last two photo's.
After test drive I came noticed more oil leaking, took pictures this time, and I think it is time for a new HG
![Frown](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#28
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Are you getting any oil from the filter oil lines? I had one had a small pin leak and it sprayed down my engine nicely. On did it when the truck was warm and under load. From the pics, it don't look good. Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from? I haven't had mine apart in sometime but I thought that the lube holes are on the driver side of the head gasket. If your head gasket is shot, there only one way to fix it. If you go into it that far, you might as well check for cracks and get the head o-ring. How fast does the oil come out? Is you're valve cover tight and sealed up? Sorry for all of the questions, good luck. If you lived here, I would help you do the head gasket fix. Its pretty easy fix. Just don't remove anymore stuff that what you need to. A engine with no studs head is very easy. You could be back running in 4 to 6hrs. Leave the exhaust manifold on and remove the turbo. Its only four bolts. Then the injector lines (they can be removed in two groups) and the fuel drain banjo at the back of the head. The head bolts can be impacted out in short time. Drain the coolant block down. You'll have to remove the rockers and pushrods. You can leave in the injectors, but I worry about breaking a nozzle. Then lift the head off with an engine hoist. Do a quick surface clean on the block and head. Then slam her back together. I did three or four head gasket last year.
#29
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Are you getting any oil from the filter oil lines? I had one had a small pin leak and it sprayed down my engine nicely. On did it when the truck was warm and under load. From the pics, it don't look good. Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from? I haven't had mine apart in sometime but I thought that the lube holes are on the driver side of the head gasket. If your head gasket is shot, there only one way to fix it. If you go into it that far, you might as well check for cracks and get the head o-ring. How fast does the oil come out? Is you're valve cover tight and sealed up? Sorry for all of the questions, good luck. If you lived here, I would help you do the head gasket fix. Its pretty easy fix. Just don't remove anymore stuff that what you need to. A engine with no studs head is very easy. You could be back running in 4 to 6hrs. Leave the exhaust manifold on and remove the turbo. Its only four bolts. Then the injector lines (they can be removed in two groups) and the fuel drain banjo at the back of the head. The head bolts can be impacted out in short time. Drain the coolant block down. You'll have to remove the rockers and pushrods. You can leave in the injectors, but I worry about breaking a nozzle. Then lift the head off with an engine hoist. Do a quick surface clean on the block and head. Then slam her back together. I did three or four head gasket last year.
I may be getting some oil from a leak where you say, from the oil filter line, I'll have to look at it a lot closer, but the front of my engine looks wet all the way down. So unless it is spraying right there, I believe oil is coming out from the front of the head. I checked my oil, still no funny looking stuff inside. Truck didnt' overheat, and ran normal. I'm starting to believe I could change it myself, the only thing I need is an engine hoist a new gasket and somewhere to take the head to get it checked out. Any tricks I should know before thinking of doing this?
Also is there anywhere else I should check for leaks? I think i'm going to let the truck idle for bit and let it get warm and see if I can see oil coming out somewhere, as both times I've noticed the leak the truck was turned off. Thanks again for the replies, been a big help thus far.
#30
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How's your fuel pressure with the walbro? I have lost an interest with the walbro and the stock fuel filter. My fuel pressure drops from 15to 5psi with full throttle with the mach 6's. And it starts struggling right away.
I'm waiting my airdog to arrive with the ½inch line. I have only the 3/8" line now.
I'm waiting my airdog to arrive with the ½inch line. I have only the 3/8" line now.
What are you doing for fuel pressure regulation?
JH