First big mods
04-29-2005, 06:10 AM
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First big mods
OK guys,
Tell me what you think and if I am doing the right mods for what I want. First off, I am modding for better performance towing my 8K trailer and have my quads on the flatbed, so it is a load!!
I think I am gonna go with the Van Aiken box with the Fuel/pyro/boost gauges. I already straighted my exhaust (loud mother!!) and run a K/N filter( I know, some don't like).
I have a pretty limited budget right now and with this stuff it would put me right at my 800.00 limit.
Does this sound like the right way to go or am I just peeing up a tree??
Thanks guys,
Chris
Tell me what you think and if I am doing the right mods for what I want. First off, I am modding for better performance towing my 8K trailer and have my quads on the flatbed, so it is a load!!
I think I am gonna go with the Van Aiken box with the Fuel/pyro/boost gauges. I already straighted my exhaust (loud mother!!) and run a K/N filter( I know, some don't like).
I have a pretty limited budget right now and with this stuff it would put me right at my 800.00 limit.
Does this sound like the right way to go or am I just peeing up a tree??
Thanks guys,
Chris
04-29-2005, 09:16 AM
#2
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Sounds like a plan! Don't know the Van Aiken, but have heard nothing bad.
Nothing wrong with K&N...is it a drop in or "cone" add on? If drop in, drill some holes in bottom of stock box, for more air.
Recent test was mentioned on another thread. K&N faired well... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
Assume your a manual, due to no tranny temp gauge. 5 or 6 speed?
RJ
Nothing wrong with K&N...is it a drop in or "cone" add on? If drop in, drill some holes in bottom of stock box, for more air.
Recent test was mentioned on another thread. K&N faired well... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
Assume your a manual, due to no tranny temp gauge. 5 or 6 speed?
RJ
04-29-2005, 10:16 AM
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Sorry, Its a 5 speed. I don't want to sacrifice drivability with it that is why I have really been torn between the EZ and the V-A. Read alot of guys on here say the Van has alot better bottom end which should help with the towing
Here is another ringer, I found a site where I can get the Edge EZ for the same price as the Van-A. SO now which way should I lean???
Chris
Here is another ringer, I found a site where I can get the Edge EZ for the same price as the Van-A. SO now which way should I lean???
Chris
04-29-2005, 10:24 AM
#4
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you will not be dissapointed with the newer Van Aaken box, I ran the v5 and it was WAY better down low then the comp I run now, you will most likely suffer from better mileage as well
you can most likely find one used for a good price, if anyone would part with em' I am running a drag comp but the VA is on standby because it was so good to my mileage. Gauges cost me less then $300 delivered with all the connections and pillar pod......so if ya find a used VA you will be $150 short of 4" exhaust
.....WARNING BOMBING IS ADDICTIVE!!!!!!!!!!
you can most likely find one used for a good price, if anyone would part with em' I am running a drag comp but the VA is on standby because it was so good to my mileage. Gauges cost me less then $300 delivered with all the connections and pillar pod......so if ya find a used VA you will be $150 short of 4" exhaust .....WARNING BOMBING IS ADDICTIVE!!!!!!!!!!
04-29-2005, 11:44 AM
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I just bought a VA V5 this morning for my 02...im gonna run that for a few months until i get the MAD ECM and a comp
i cant wait til it gets delivered so I can see if my clutch will hold out for the next couple weeks...or if I need to get that in before the Hot Rod Cruise at the beach
i cant wait til it gets delivered so I can see if my clutch will hold out for the next couple weeks...or if I need to get that in before the Hot Rod Cruise at the beach
04-29-2005, 08:58 PM
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I got mine through Diesel performance products... They ran me about $300 with a-pillar.
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/index.html
I think the Dipricols work great... (Pyro, boost 0-35, and Fuel pressure)
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/index.html
I think the Dipricols work great... (Pyro, boost 0-35, and Fuel pressure)
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04-30-2005, 10:10 PM
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I tow approx 10,000 lbs with my Van Aaken box, and I'm very pleased with pulling power down low, and midrange, and fuel mileage. I think it is a great all around 60hp fueling box. I keep mine on all the time(almost 5 years) even through the cold winters up here in western Canada, for added oomph and mileage even on winter diesel. Either EZ or Van Aaken you can't go wrong for what your towing needs are, and still maintaining reliability of your rig. The Bombing bug has bit me, and I'll be upgrading to Comp and injectors soon, and might be selling mine, Pm me if interested or for more info.
05-03-2005, 06:37 PM
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Well, I finally did it!!! Ordered the VA box,pyro, boost and fuel pressure gauges from DPP. Guys seem really easy to work with, only issue I have is it's gonna take a week to get to me
!!
I hate waiting
Chris
!! I hate waiting
Chris
05-04-2005, 08:45 AM
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Chris55,
This gives you good time to order to track down the other needed part for your system. Like getting the....
* Needle Valve - WH6820 @ NAPA
* 3/4" to X Bushing to reduce the thread hole for the boost. (No! Don't open the small plug it coolant!) X being the size you want to reduce to. I used 3/4" to 1/2" then brass 1/2" to 1/8"
* Extra wiring to hook up the lights. Remember to grab Male/Female disconnects for you wiring.
You might even want to open up the dash and plan your routing of cables and tubing. You find that there is a lot of stuff in the road. You might pull a few chunks of old wire though the dash and firewall so you don't have to do it later when your looking at those sweet guages! The wire & tubing route was the longest of the battle for me.
Actually hooking up the guages is easy...This will allow you to hook em' up in one afternoon...
This gives you good time to order to track down the other needed part for your system. Like getting the....
* Needle Valve - WH6820 @ NAPA
* 3/4" to X Bushing to reduce the thread hole for the boost. (No! Don't open the small plug it coolant!) X being the size you want to reduce to. I used 3/4" to 1/2" then brass 1/2" to 1/8"
* Extra wiring to hook up the lights. Remember to grab Male/Female disconnects for you wiring.
You might even want to open up the dash and plan your routing of cables and tubing. You find that there is a lot of stuff in the road. You might pull a few chunks of old wire though the dash and firewall so you don't have to do it later when your looking at those sweet guages!
The wire & tubing route was the longest of the battle for me.Actually hooking up the guages is easy...This will allow you to hook em' up in one afternoon...
05-04-2005, 11:05 AM
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Originally posted by Mopar1973man
Chris55,
This gives you good time to order to track down the other needed part for your system. Like getting the....
* Needle Valve - WH6820 @ NAPA
* 3/4" to X Bushing to reduce the thread hole for the boost. (No! Don't open the small plug it coolant!) X being the size you want to reduce to. I used 3/4" to 1/2" then brass 1/2" to 1/8"
* Extra wiring to hook up the lights. Remember to grab Male/Female disconnects for you wiring.
You might even want to open up the dash and plan your routing of cables and tubing. You find that there is a lot of stuff in the road. You might pull a few chunks of old wire though the dash and firewall so you don't have to do it later when your looking at those sweet guages! The wire & tubing route was the longest of the battle for me.
Actually hooking up the guages is easy...This will allow you to hook em' up in one afternoon...
Chris55,
This gives you good time to order to track down the other needed part for your system. Like getting the....
* Needle Valve - WH6820 @ NAPA
* 3/4" to X Bushing to reduce the thread hole for the boost. (No! Don't open the small plug it coolant!) X being the size you want to reduce to. I used 3/4" to 1/2" then brass 1/2" to 1/8"
* Extra wiring to hook up the lights. Remember to grab Male/Female disconnects for you wiring.
You might even want to open up the dash and plan your routing of cables and tubing. You find that there is a lot of stuff in the road. You might pull a few chunks of old wire though the dash and firewall so you don't have to do it later when your looking at those sweet guages!
The wire & tubing route was the longest of the battle for me.Actually hooking up the guages is easy...This will allow you to hook em' up in one afternoon...
I was wondering about the needle vvalve. Does it thread directly into the filter housing or does it need bushed also?? I have had the plug in the intake manifold out once already to check for a boost leak so I got that one covered.
Any tips on where to bring all the wires through?? should be 2 hoses and the pyro wires so there is gonna be alot to pull through
Chris
05-05-2005, 07:52 AM
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Here is a picture of the assembled needle valve. Banjo bolt is on the right and that is what screws in to the bottom of the fuel filter housing... You have to remove the banjo bolt in the bottom of the fuel filter housing and replace it with the tapped banjo you see in the pic above... Tapped banjo bolts are at...
http://198.104.149.53/CoastalData/sh...ID=593&CATID=1
Here is a picture of the 3/4 to 1/2 inch steel busching plus the 1/2 to 1/8 inch brass bushing. This is the boost gauge connection.
Some will drill a hole in the firewall and install a rubber grommet I just followed the jake wiring that the dealer put in through the main harness boot... Boot was kinda ripped so I used it...
To route for the A-pillar you should pull the knee bolster, dash trim, and headlight switch. This will make pulling wirings and tubing easy as pie...(well it helps a lot... )
As for doing the pyro...
You need to buy a 1/8 NPT tap and a 5/16 drill. I did mine without pulling the turbo off. Mark you spot with a center punch. Get a second person with a shop vacuum and hold the hose as close to the drill bit as possible. Also use heavy grease on the drill bit. Drill slowly and clean the bit often and re-grease. After the hole is drilled I used a dry Q-tip and a magnetic screw driver to pick up any chips in the hole. (Didn't find much.. mostly in the grease...) Tap the hole now with the 1/8 NPT tap. Use the grease on you tap too. Make sure to clean and regrease the tap often. Once the hole is tapped clean once more in the bottom and assemble the pyro...
I've got more pictures here at this link...
http://www.cloud10computers.dynu.com...0Truck/Guages/
I hope this helps...
http://198.104.149.53/CoastalData/sh...ID=593&CATID=1
Here is a picture of the 3/4 to 1/2 inch steel busching plus the 1/2 to 1/8 inch brass bushing. This is the boost gauge connection.
Some will drill a hole in the firewall and install a rubber grommet I just followed the jake wiring that the dealer put in through the main harness boot... Boot was kinda ripped so I used it...
To route for the A-pillar you should pull the knee bolster, dash trim, and headlight switch. This will make pulling wirings and tubing easy as pie...(well it helps a lot...
)As for doing the pyro...
You need to buy a 1/8 NPT tap and a 5/16 drill. I did mine without pulling the turbo off. Mark you spot with a center punch. Get a second person with a shop vacuum and hold the hose as close to the drill bit as possible. Also use heavy grease on the drill bit. Drill slowly and clean the bit often and re-grease. After the hole is drilled I used a dry Q-tip and a magnetic screw driver to pick up any chips in the hole. (Didn't find much.. mostly in the grease...) Tap the hole now with the 1/8 NPT tap. Use the grease on you tap too. Make sure to clean and regrease the tap often. Once the hole is tapped clean once more in the bottom and assemble the pyro...
I've got more pictures here at this link...
http://www.cloud10computers.dynu.com...0Truck/Guages/
I hope this helps...