1320

I have an extra head....figure its time t get it ready since I m running 50-55 psi now. Porting is no problem.....but I m wondering what/ who is done in particular with the fire ringed heads? That is just an o ring ring? or two? No receiver in the block? stainless .041 wire? or copper? What head gasket?

Jim? Infidel? others? whats the best set up for big boost numbers on a100% street truck that pulls a Biiiig trailer.


Beside arp, who/ where sells the "other" studs?

Are there better valves available at a decent price? bigger exhuast valve perhaps? Maybe lower egts?

Are the cams available worth it in reliability? As in just as good as an oem piece. 300+k miles?

1320

ttt ......anybody?

Jetpilot

The fire rings are pretty much larger O-rings that use a special gasket. I have used standard O-rings with a good marine gasket and pushed boost over 90 psi (on occasion) with no ill effects.

There are two brands of studs available for our trucks, A-1 and ARP. Personally I like the ARP much better. There seems to be some breakage of the A-1 studs.

As for the head there is a ton that can be done to them it just depends on how deeps your pocketbook is

The cams that are available are good, some are better than others though. Most are reground cams, and are somewhat softer than an original OEM cam. But they should last without any problems as the OEM models are hard to start with.

Doug

justinp20012500

Take a look here.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=55752

1320

Jet pilot, I read the thread posted below your reply. I find it enlightening that for the most part you gave more information right here then the three pages in the other thread.

I do have more quetions for you though. Fire rings? Are those the .105 tho ring? what material?
You said you used standard o rings? Do you mean .041 and what material? copper or stainless wire?
You also said good marine gasket? I thought there was only one marine gasket? The gen 3 modified gasket for a 12 v or a marine 12 v gasket?

You o ringed the head with .041 stainless, which gives a raised ring of about 030 ......do you know the marine head gasket thickness? Is it different from the oem head gasket thickness?

justinp20012500

Thanks for bashing my thread...


Heres the oring info.

Use .051" wire, cut the groove with a .048" cutter, that way you end up with a 2-3 thou press fit. You want to center the o ring with the middle of your factory head gasket fire ring & leave a .010" protrusion. As for the oring wire. Just use a stainless wire.

I am not sure what people are using for the .105 fire ring wire. Call Patty @ Haisleys I am sure she will tell you. (877) 948-3164


The reason for using the marine HG is the different thincknesses. It all depends on how bad your head is warped and how much you machine off. You need a thicker HG to keep the injector protrusion in specs along with the valve to piston clearance. (If you are going to keep the stock compression ratio.)

Here is the fire ring info. This is off the sheet that comes in the gasket kit. YOU MUST USE STUDS TO SEAL THE FIRE RINGS RIGHT!!!


FIRE RING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (.105)

INSURE HEAD & BLOCK ARE FLAT
(+/-) .002 FRONT TO BACK (MAX)
(+/-) .001 SIDE TO SIDE (MAX)

RING GROOVE WIDTH = .120 WIDE
MAKE TOTAL GROOVE DIAMETER .008 (+/-) .001 BIGGER THAN FIRE RING O.D.
(Example: 4.500” O.D. = 4.508)

RING COMPRESSED HEIGHT = .090 (.015 COMPRESSION OF WIRE)

RING GROOVE DEPTH TOTAL MIN - MAX
STD GASKET .030 - .032
+.010 GASKET .020 - .022
+.020 GASKET .010 - .012

GROOVE RECOMMENDATIONS
IN LOW BOOST CONDITIONS (80 PSI & UNDER) RING CAN BE INSTALLED ALL IN THE HEAD OR BLOCK IF TRYING TO REPAIR COPPER HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT.

IF GROOVE IS ALL CUT IN HEAD: PLACE GASKET ON BLOCK, INSTALL FIRE RING IN GASKET BORE. CAREFULLY INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD. FIRE RINGS ARE ROUND AND WILL CENTER THEMSELVES IN GROOVES. 4.550” RINGS WORK BEST IN THIS APPLICATION.

NOTE: IF HEAD OR BLOCK WAS SET UP WITH O-RINGS AND RECEIVER GROOVES FOR COPPER, IT MAY BE NECESSARY FOR HEAD AND/OR BLOCK DECK TO BE SURFACED FOR DEPTH OF GROOVE TO BE CORRECT FOR FIRE RING INSTALLATION.

ALL NEW INSTALLS USE 4.500” RINGS (NO GROOVES-NO WIRES-FLAT HEAD AND BLOCK)

FOR HIGH BOOST CONDITIONS
12 OR 24 VALVE STD GASKET .015-.016 GROOVE – BLOCK
.015-.016 GROOVE – HEAD

12 VALVE .010 GASKET .010-.011 GROOVE – BLOCK
.010-.011 GROOVE – HEAD

12 VALVE .020 GASKET .005-.006 GROOVE – BLOCK
.005-.006 GROOVE – HEAD

STUD RECOMMENDATIONS
HEAD STUDS ARE RECOMMENDED FOR ALL FIRE RING APPLICATIONS. STOCK HEAD BOLTS ARE NOT CAPABLE OF NECESSARY PSI CLAMP FORCE TO COMPRESS FIRE RINGS INTO GROOVE PROPERLY.

UP TO 80 PSI BOOST STANDARD STUDS
OVER 80 PSI BOOST XHD STUDS

HEAD STUD RETORQUE PROCEDURE

1. Leave valve cover off, start truck and let run until it reaches operating temperature.

2. Remove fuel lines and return line

3. Retorque STD studs to 135# - ENGINE HOT Retorque XHD studs to 160# - ENGINE HOT

4. Check valves, re-adjust if necessary. ( INTAKE - .008 and EXHAUST - .018 on hot engine)

justinp20012500

O ya, the 3rd gen gasket is very hard to get to seal right on a 12v'er. You will have to take the block out of the truck to get a very flat and very smooth finish on it. And do the same with the head.

You will also have to modify it so the water ports line up correctly.

Like Don said in the prevous post. Oring will not work on a MLS (3rd gen) gasket. There is no embossed fire ring in the MLS gasket for the oring to press into.


Justin

1320

Thats good stuff there.....sorry about your thread, it just seemed like it got alittle off track regarding vendors and secrets etc....

So the a marine gasket with stailess wire, I suppose the actual wire diameter doesn t matter alot. Do you have a listing for the marine gasket (s) ? is there more then one?

Im not gonna remove my block......I have another but figure I have at least another 150k in this one.

acdc

thanx justin that is the exact info I have been looking for