I am thinking to keep it a VP truck as it looks like a P pump conversion would be quite costly. Its a hard decision between a VP truck and a CR but the CR are a lot more expensive so it would be easier for me to buy a VP truck and mod it.

1. If you had to do it all over again would you still buy a VP truck or would you get a CR?

2. From what years do the trucks have 53 blocks?

3. So with mach 8s, twin turbos and a Helix 3 cam what kind of HP would I be looking at? What type of track numbers?

4. Would this setup last/ be reliable if it is run in the low setting?

5. What would I need to buy to keep the engine in one piece?

thanks,
Andrew

 

an earlier model common rail truck costs about the same as a nice second gen.,,,,,,,,,,,ive had both,,i think common rail is the way to go now........bama

 

If you are looking at running 10's or 11's in a full weight truck, then a p-pump conversion is gonna be a drop in the bucket in terms of money. Not to mention it will be much more reliable in the end. Looking at the trucks that were at the Blackout this year that were running 10's and 11's, there is a decent amount of money in them. All 3 were CR engines.

 

1. What is the cost for a p pump conversion?

2. What is involved in the conversion?

thanks,
Andrew

 

I paid about $4k CDN. Would be less now since our dollar is above the USD. Some wrenching and some running around. The swap itself isn't bad, just the smaller things to finish it up. If I ever bought a 24v again, it would be getting a p-pump in short order.

FWIW, I paid more to have my VP replaced than I did to convert. But I paid labour on that first job. But I still paid $2200 for the VP (HRVP, dollar sucked at the time.)

 

Those parts you listed would work on a stock block. I would get the block decked. Put in decent valve springs and retainers. If your going the p pump route and planning on using the 5k gsk, the block will need some mods. I'm thinking if money an issue the VP is a good route. If you go the SO VP pump, go smaller on the sticks. You top end HP might drop a few ponies. You spray and methanol, to level the field. A P pump set-up to run 10's will be smokey and not truely streetable. I'm not sold on all that 3rd gen electronic stuff. Too many electronic stuff to go bad, when you need the hp the most. I'm a mechanic at heart not a computer programer. Anyways to get to the big power you have to run 2 CP's and dump tons of $$$ just to get it to run with the p pump boys. Yes it can be done, depends on you and how you want to race.

 

1. If I were to do SO VP, Mach 7s, Twin turbos, Helix cam 3, and supporting block work what kind of track times would I have? (99-02 Dodge 2500 Quadcab 4x4 LB)

2. How much more reliable is the SO VP then the HRVP

3. How much hp is it capable of supporting reliably?

thanks,
Andrew

 

You seem to have over looked one of the most important things to get that much power down the track.
You will need a full billet auto trans which will run about $5-$6K.

 

He is gonna need that regardless if its 12v, 24v, or CR. No matter which way you go it is gonna get expensive. JMO
Joe

 

High 11's at best without nitrous.

Stick with the SO pump. Low end fueling will be less and smoke will be more controllable with that big of injectors for a street truck. Top end HP should be the same.

 

With that big of sticks, you're probably looking at a HRVP . I would guess that you should be at 70 to 100k miles for pump life. The Helix 3 is over kill. Use Helix 2 or similar, you might want to have the head ported and polished. I might even go mach 6'ers and run the SO pump, its cheaper and almost makes the same HP (you can still drive them on a daily bais). The billet input/output shaft is a must and same with the billet flex plate. Depending on whose twins you select, should be 600+rwhp and mid 12's area just on #2. A true daily driver and you can still some limited towing. Add nos and methanol to go faster if you need too. Mach 8's are really met for HRVP's and nos. I've heard that some SO pump trucks lose HP with the mach 7's vs a similar dyno pull on mach 6er's.

 

My goal is to have a reliable DD/ racer in the 12s or 11s

1. What twin setup would give me the most instant spoolup but still haul A$$ on the top end?

2. Where does the power come on and off with a twin turbo/SO pump setup?

3. So I would not be better off to run mach 8s on #2 only with twins and a Hot rod pump?

4. Or how about mach 7s and a HRVP?

5. Would I be able to retain stock MPG with the fuel/ timing boxes turned down with machs 6/7s?

6. What would I dyno with the fuel/ timing turned down with mach 6s or 7s?

thanks,
Andrew

 

First of All, My Truck makes a considerable amount more with 8's on a so than it did with 6's. Most HRVP's have show high HP Losses, Some beg to differ, Just my opinion i guess!
In all honesty i think everything here has been discussed in other threads . And for the fact of the matter, all any of us have voiced is opinion, You'll have to see what you can do for yourself, Theres lots of opinions here, and all good ones, but would that make you happy? maybe, maybe not, Its trial and error, get a fairly common setup and tune it to do what you want!

 

Also somethin to think about to, if you leave it a VP pump you have the ability to turn it up and down on the fly, really would help with street drivin and in the rain.

Like some one said, to be in the 11s with a street truck, it's just gonna cost $$$. I'd say if you started figurin it up, each motor (12v,VP,CR) they are probably close to the same cost dependin on which route you take (i.e. nitrous, water/meth etc).

 

I'm only in it 2200 plus 12,000 i paid for my truck. My truck can be smoky or clean, depends on my foot.

My 5spd truck runs High 11's to low 12's. . . . . . . . . In an 1/8 mile.