annabelle

I would go with the Hellmann sump.......no drawing up from the tank and you have access to all the fuel.

1dumrednek

where can you get those from?

annabelle

Hellman sells them directly. Google them. A nice write up was posted on the sump's installation......do a search for the write up. I think the sump is was around $185.00.....nice precision built piece of aluminum.

nickg

draw straw basically is an extra feed line you instal into the tank. you can run them below 1/4, couple problems are:
1) if installed incorrectly you could run out of fuel at 1/4 tank (draw straw too short)
2) at 1/4 or less tank the higher GPH pumps move so much fuel it basically sucks the tank empty before it can return the fuel back to the tank, also shoshing fuel allows the draw straw to suck in air, causing PSI fluxiations.

to fix problem #1, you must instal the drawstraw correctly for length and cut a small notch at the bottom so that the fuel can still get up the straw even if the straw is bottomed out at the bottom of the tank

for problem # 2 If you use the orginal fuel moduel you can insert the drawstraw into the fuel canister instead of cutting a hole in your fuel tank, if you get a drawstraw with 2 ports (one suck and one return port) you can dump the return back into the canister instead of the filler neck (likely where yours returns now) this will help keep the pump from running out of fuel when the fuel tank has less than 1/4 tank.

as for the sump (sucking fuel off the bottom of the tank) check local rules, as far as I know its not reccommended to have a bottom feed tank, mostly for safety reasons, as you would have a large fuel leak if the hose is knocked off or in an acciedent, all automotive fuel tanks are ALWAYS fed from the top.
have also read, have no proof. but in the same low fuel level conditions the shoshing fuel runs past the sump, still causing the pump to starve for fuel for a couple seconds, although not as bad as a draw straw can be.

here is a link to a drawstraw instal, this is the option I went with as I decided to drill the fuel canister instead of the fuel tank. I do get some low pressure fluxiations when hard braking or turning when I have about 4 gallons of fuel left, I just treat 1/4 as if I was empty. and fill up at 1/4. best not to run your truck under 1/4 any way as the fuel cools the VP, and the lower the fuel tank level the hotter the fuel is because it has already cooled injectors and the VP

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...tallation.html

here is a link to vulcan, it shows the different draw straws or fuel canisters avaliable

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/220.htm

1dumrednek

i ordered an airdog today. its the one to go on a truck with the in tank pump. from what i could tell it looks like it hooks to the top of the in tank pump. anyone know how that kit hooks up? and if you just put a hose down into the tank, you wont have problems with it collapsing from suction?

nickg

If you got a kit that is susposed to work with an intank pump, I would suspect you have everything needed, who did you order from? and what exactly did you buy? a AD 150, AD 100??? Unless you remove the old pump from the tank, you cant just hook the the fuel line to the canister, your "kit" should have a new tank canister or new parts to replace where the old pump used to be

You cant just drop a fuel line into your tank, a draw straw is a ridgid tube that is diesel fuel compliant and wont collaps. the above link will give you a beter idea of what is involved

1dumrednek

i got it through the local diesel shop. its a ad 100. he said book time was 3 to 4 hours i'm assuming thats just cuz you have to drop the tank?

nickg

wether you drop the tank or lift the bed, its only 1/2 hour to do, I thought it took longer to run the new hoses and instal the push locks. if its a ad100, and if you have an intank pump they have to either instal a drawstraw or remove the pump and instal the piece that replaces the pump.

I would think even if it was your first time it would only take 3-4hrs

1dumrednek

i got the pump today and it came with a draw straw. one thing i noticed too is the inlet on the injection pump replaces the factory banjo bolt but thats already where i have my fuel pressure sensor for the attitude monitor. if that has to go there where can i get a fuel pressure reading from?

busa

Just cut the hose close to the inj. pump and buy a inline adapter for the gauge.

1dumrednek

i installed it today. (took way more than 4 hours) got everything in and done by the book, but it doesnt work. i got no power coming to the pump. all the connections are hooked up and everything. i cant figure it out. any ideas greatly appreciated

nickg

you should be able to jump the relay,(remove the relay) and use a piece of wire to power up the AD.

been a while since I had to do that , but if you remove the relay, then use a testlight, touch the terminals till you find one thats hot, you then should be able to go from that one to the one thats exactly opposite, this should make the pump run as long as you leave the wire in there.

Have you got good connections at the battery (I think the inst say to hook the positive lead to the alternator) and is the fuze in the wiring harnsee good as well? other than that it should start right up.
hummm, did you "bump" the ignition to get the pump to run for the 25 or so seconds? not trying to be smart here, but some guys dont know that they have to "bump" the key to get the pump to run.

when you do fiqure out the pump and get it running, my advice is to loosen off the fitting at the VP, and bleed the pump BEFORE trying to start the truck, otherwise you will starve the VP before all the air is removed from the 1/2inch lines, and all that air will end up in the VP causing you more grief trying to bleed it out
as for your pressure sender Vulcan sell a pushloc that has the 1/8npt port to screw your sender into, I think it was under 10$, here is how I did it

1dumrednek

ya i bumped the key. same as i would to get the factory setup to run. i have the + and ground hooked to the battery. it shouldnt have to ground through the relay bracket should it? also i didnt mount the fuse holder but that shouldnt matter anyways. ill try jumping power to it tomorow. il probaly give air dog a call too. see what they think

and as far as the pressure gauge, i think ill just go from the pump where they say to go for their low pressure light. just mount my edge sensor there and extend the wires for it. or else run a small line up to the sensor.

1dumrednek

i got it working. the relay on the air dog harness was no good. put a new relay in and it worked fine. and i hooked the pressure sensor right on to the pump and ran longer wires. works great. 15-17 psi at idle, 13-15 at WOT. it also feels like it has more power. im very happy with it.

1dumrednek

this draw straw sucks. i wasnt even down to a quarter and it was sucking air on hard braking. i gotta do something different