Well, I think I've settled on a FASS HPFP (95gph) replacement from my aging LP. But before I order it I would like to hear about what it's like to feed through the existing filter. Any downside here? Still get good flow to IP? It seems like a relatively easy installation.

I've read posts about the noise issue with FASS pumps. Quieter pumps are out now - maybe that's enough. Has anyone tried to isolate the noise with rubber mountings?

 

Personally, I like using the pump only system. Lets you use stock filters and keeps your water in fuel sensor. No problem with fuel supply to injection pump. I have installed several, and they are not loud enough to hear over your engine!

 

I just installed a FASS 95 system (the one with filters) on my truck last night. I was thinking about going the route you are leaning towards, but I read many threads about the fuel heater... As in if it works, what good does it do since the lines behind it would be frozen, fuel would not enter your engine. Also, as the engine heats up, this would heat up your fuel. Supposedly the fuel heater only work when the "wait to start" light is on.

Because of these reasons, I chose to use the better filter system the FASS provides. I run PS all the time, so I don't worry about my fuel being gelled up.

The installation is straight forward. For me, the only hard part was installing the "push-lock" fuel lines. I ended up using lots of WD-40 and a hair dryer to mostly push on the fuel lines. I sealed them with hose clamps. I have no leaks that I know about. I followed the directions about using the doorman fitting (thats the one that connects to the fuel tank) and I seem to have a good seal. If this leaks, I will remove the the doorman fitting and hose clamp the fuel line to the fuel tank. For the return manifold, I simply made 1 cut about 1/2 inch from the top of the filler rubber hose and installed the manifold. I did not cut out any of the OEM rubber hose. This seems to work well.

Allot of people seem to have a hard time removing the OEM fuel suction fitting. I used a short common screwdriver for the bottom clip and press the opposite clip down with my left hand and pulled it off. The green retaining clip was still on and I decided to cut it off.

What ever way you go, I am sure you will be happy. I would tell you what my fuel pressure is, but I finished up late and have not installed the plumbing for it. This will wait for latter on today.


HTHs,

Joe

 

What He said! (AND i expets you, XJ, to handle every FASS install question from now on! Very well done!) BUT the HPFP is a great system if cash doesn't allow for the full set up. No probs with the stock filter head that we have seen. AND any VP truck should be fine with this setup.

Only thing i would add to XJJoe01 comments is that green tab, it can be taken off without being cut. All you need to do is bend both tabs back over 180* and just pull it off. Then reinstall it back into the stock line. You can also use dental floss to compress the tabs as well.

 

A couple of other questions come to mind. I tried to call a distributor for answers but they were closed now.

1. The FASS (full) installs with a return line through the fuel filler tube. I assume this means the pump runs constantly regardless of fuel demands and overflow just goes back to the tank. On the other hand, the HPFP, does not return any fuel to the filler. Does this mean that it does not run constantly? Is there a pressure sensor of some sort to turn it on and off?

2. I saw a note somewhere that the FASS systems used to be shipped with a lower pressure spring in days of old. But now they are now, because of customer demand, shipped with higher pressure springs; but the lower pressure spring are available if desired. Since my truck is only going to be essentially stock, and since I am worried about blowing out an aging or weak VP diaphragm, wouldn't it be wise to get the lower pressure spring alternative? Does this cost extra?

 

Partly correct. The FASS is a regulated return pump. SO its always feeding fuel back to the tank. The HPFP is internally regulated so it by-passes internally. Its run on by-pass until demand goes up. Similar in nature to the stock pump. SO in-tank restrictions are less of an issue with the HPFP. BUT honestly they are not much of an issue with the FASS to begin with.

We set our pumps up with a 13-14 PSI Spring (95 GPH-150 GPH Respectively). We do have a PS-1001 spring, but this will give you about 8-9 PSI. 13-14 is stock pressure. If your VP cant handle this, it time for a new one.

 

Now I am really confused. From the DPP web site it says the appropriate application for my 2001 Truck is: HPFP-95-1003. Yet on a dealers site I see they list a HPFP-95-1002. What is the difference between a 1002 and 1003? I don't want to order the wrong one.

 

The 1002 was the correct part number for your kit before Jan 1st. If your dealer sill has one in stock, it will work just fine. BUT to cut down on part numbers for us and our dealers, the 1003 kit absorbed the 1002 kit.

 

TankerIP, I say go with the HPFP if that's what you want.
I've had mine on almost three years now, and it's still going strong. Pressure was only around 12 at idle with the original spring, so DPP sent me a new one and I still get approx. 18.5 at idle and can't pull below 14.5 to 15psi.
After I installed it I was getting hard start for about a month using the supplied quick connect fitting at the tank, so i took that off and used two hose clamps. That solved the problem, and it's been fine ever since.
Also, I've operated at -45*F before and she ran flawless.....although the seats and tires didn't have much flex to 'em !
A 90* drill will also make installing the mounting bracket much easier. I didn't have one.
There's a couple pics in my gallery.
Darn, one more thing....I ordered mine from Rip at SourceAutomotive and had him fab me up a matching line (with a port in it for my FP gauge plumbing) to run from the filter head to the IP.

 

Is this a common problem? after finishing my FASS HPFP LP install, the ONLY problem I've noticed is a small leak. It was getting dark so I'm not sure exactly where its coming from, but I do know its originating from the intake line area. I'll check it tommorrow but not sure if I'll be able to see any real leak.
-Tim

 

Most leaks that are noted on top of the tank is from residual fuel in the stock line that leaks out upon a new install. I would clean it off and see if the fuel comes back.

Hose clamps other than the quick disconnect is not needed at all if the lines are properly installed on the push-lock fittings.....