Anyone running an external transmission filter? Im interested in doing it but Im unsure of the plumbing. Id prefer to use transmission hose rather than solid lines if possible. Lots of rot on the fuel lines as it is.

 

I personally don't see the advantage to an external filter as you should still run the internal tranny filter and change it regularly.

 

Im seeing a lot of sooty clutch material in the oil that Id like to filter out. The internal one doesnt look like its picking it up

 

Oops!! A tranny which is not wearing out its frictions or self-distructing in some other way will have fluid which looks clean at each service. Frictions are not a wear item.

 

I sure don't see where adding one would hurt. As much as a good tranny costs I think an ounce of prevention would be good. Look at DieselSite.com . They have one that goes in full bypass mode if it clogs up. I have not seen anyone elses mention this advantage.

 

I need to limp along with my stock transmission until I can afford the cost of upgrading it. Doesnt seem like it can be done in parts, it has to all be done at once and thats a killer on the wallet =(

 

Man I understand. I am about to embark on the least fun part of bombing and thats going to be rebuilding my tranny. I am just going to order some parts each month, rebuild kit, VB, TC and rebuild as I can. This part will take me at least 4 - 5 months. Then I'll start having more fun with fuelin' it up .

 

Inline hydraulic remote spin on filter with 20GPM flow rate and 10 micron filter.
Northern Tool has one. Also has bypass valve built in. HTH
James
Ad removed site violation

 

I just plonked down the 2k deposit on the parts for a DTT rebuild, so I dont think Im going to install the filter but Ill ask my mechanic what he thinks of doing it on the rebuild.

 

Main reason for me is that I'm running amsoil full syn trans fluid ...it's good for 100,000 miles , I'm still running the stock filter , but off the return line I piped in a baldwin filter mount ...I forget the # but the filter I chose was a bt365 ...it's a 23 micron filter ...it is a little long , but the 18 mircon is smaller but dose not flow as much and I had consern with return flow .
That was main reason for the filter is so I can just change a filter out and not have to drop to get to the filter .
Other wise I would think is was a little over kill and a lot of work and money ...you should do the trans hose at the same time .
Hope this helps
Greg

 

Hi All,

I installed a remote filter in my tranny and still use the exisiting pan filter. I installed a "spin on" filter unit and a pure one filter PH8A unit. from outlet line of the tranny to the cooler(s), before it goes into the first engine coolant/tranny fluid heat exchanger. If you start chewing up your Torque Converter disk(s) material, it could plug your cooler(s) and also contaminate the rest of the tranny, escpecially those electronic governer dodads in the 47RE and poss later?

I also installed a pressure switch inline to monitor the lock up pressure while I was at it. I'll try to post pics, someone else was asking this awhile ago and life got in the way

 

Just be sure it has a total bypass mode if it gets clogged up so you don't completly lose hydrolyc pressure.

 

As soon as I learn to post pics I'll show you what I just competed on my external tranny filter install. For now, use your imagination and feel free to PM me:Someone mentioned dieselsite.com for the Ford PSD external filter setup. Go with this. Bob Rielly at dieselsite sells excellent kits. Buy the one for the PSD. Buy the housing, a filter or two for this housing(Baldwin filters), 1 -3/8" shut off valve, and the balwin pressure guage that mounts on the housing. Total cost was around 50 bucks. Do not buy the pre made hoses. Go to a hose and fitting store in your area and purchase about 7' of 5/8" oil resistant hose and about 2' of 3/8" oil resistant hose. You willcut into the 1/2" pipe that comes from your tranny cooler mounted at the front of the truck and heads back to the tranny. To locate the correct return pipe, it will be the one that comes in towards the rear of the tranny. You will be filtering fluid after all has been through the system and all coolers. You will need 2 brass 5/8" compression to 1/2" barbed 90 degree fittings to tap intothis line. I tapped in right at the front of the truck at the bottom where that pipe turns 90 back towards the transmission. I mounted my filter housing on the 90 degree bracket that comes with the housing, and from there mounted that bracket onto a 2 1/2" exhaust clamp that is wrapped around my intercooer pipe up high right before it turns 90 into the combustion intake chamber up. The reason for this particular location is that the housing guage is protected and the changing of the filter will be effortless. Finally, connect your 5/8" hose to and from the filter housing from these pipe fittings. Now, this housing is a true bypass housing, and the guage will show you when it is time to change the filter. It will bypass only once it starts to get clogged with tranny debris. You do not have to do this next step, I chose to for added assurance. That 3/8" valve, I mounted that on top of the housing bracket and plumbed it to come from the 5/8" hose before the filter back to the 5/8" hose after the filter. You will need 2-5/8" to 5/8" to 3/8" heater hose tees for this added bypass backup. To make it easy, here are the parts:
Dieselsite tranny filter housing w/ 90 degree bracket
Dieselsite pressure guage made for this housing
1- 3/8" ball valve( 3/8" FPT x 3/8" FPT)
2- 3/8" 90 degree brass fittings(3/8" MPT to 3/8" barb)to attach to ends of ball valve
Badwin filters- your choice on amount
7' 5/8" hose, 3' 3/8"hose---all oil resistant
2- 3/4" MPT to 5/8" barb 90 degree brass fittingsto mount on in/out of filter housing
2- 1/2" compression to 5/8" barb 90 degree brass fittings to tap into 1/2" tranny return line
2- 5/8" to 5/8" to 3/8" heater hose tees
Exhaust clamp made to fit snug around your intercooer pipe-driver's side
Zip ties
Hose clamps- if you can locate them, get the Corbin style clamps,(NAPA, ACE, TRUE VALUE) the kind you squeeze with piers to get on.Much cleaner in appearance and worm style clamps tend to get loose and cut into your hose. I have yet to see a leak with these. 8-5/8" and 4 -3/8"

When you get done with this, PM me and I'll share with you my bypass coolant filter parts and install.

Let me know if I can be of more help. Carmyne

 

I'm running a Magnefine inline tranny filter in my Honda Accord. It uses magnets as well as a filter element to filter crap out of the tranny fluid. And it's very easy to install. Costs about $20... You can get it at:

http://www.emergingenterprises.com/s...1Magnefine.htm


I took some cut open pics after 30K miles:

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...ight=magnefine

 

_____________________________

I would be worried if that came out of my auto!
You have a serious problem in there!
IMO a well built and operating auto should not need more than the stock filter and regular fluid changes, and since the fluid coming out of the converter is at a fairly low pressure the extra resistance thru the extra filter could be a problem no? I know of someone that killed a tranny from plumbing on a external cooler with long lengths of tiny 3/8 hose and that slowed the oil flow to much.