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Exhaust brake & 60# Springs

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Old 05-31-2006, 10:41 AM
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Question Exhaust brake & 60# Springs

We are still in the rebuilding phase on this truck. When back on the rooad it will be pulling heavy loads on a gooseneck trailer. I'm considering installing a PacBrake on the 96 Cummins. I understand I'll need at least 60# exhaust valve springs. Currently they are not available from Cummins so I need a source for the springs, where would I look?
Also, I fishing for opinions on the PacBrake. Any other EB suggestions and all opinions welcome.
Thanks .... Ken Gardner
Old 05-31-2006, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by akghound
We are still in the rebuilding phase on this truck. When back on the rooad it will be pulling heavy loads on a gooseneck trailer. I'm considering installing a PacBrake on the 96 Cummins. I understand I'll need at least 60# exhaust valve springs. Currently they are not available from Cummins so I need a source for the springs, where would I look?
Also, I fishing for opinions on the PacBrake. Any other EB suggestions and all opinions welcome.
Thanks .... Ken Gardner

You might want to take a look at our brake. The BD brake uses a different method of regulating the back pressure. The engine is good for 60lbs of back pressure. Our safety is built into the cylinder. It essentially is a spring setup for 60lbs. If the backpressure exceeds 60psi it will push the brake open to relieve the excess pressure. Once it is below 60 it closes again. Pac has drilled a hole in the butterfly valve so the brake will never build more than 60psi. The problem there is you do most of your driving between 1800-2200rpm. With a hole in the valve you are going to lose most of your low rpm braking through that hole. Ours because we have the solid butterfly will work much better at the rpm you are driving at. Give us a call if you have any questions.
Old 05-31-2006, 12:48 PM
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www.haisleymachine.com or www.scheiddiesel.com will have them. I don't understand why Cummins doesn't have them. Maybe the branch you are dealing with doesn't want to order them from a distribution center...
Old 05-31-2006, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
www.haisleymachine.com or www.scheiddiesel.com will have them. I don't understand why Cummins doesn't have them. Maybe the branch you are dealing with doesn't want to order them from a distribution center...
I'm dealing with Northwest Cummins in Missoula Montana. Their suppies has them back ordered so they N/W went directly to Cummins and found that the springs are out of stock there as well, or so i was told.
Thanks for the sites, I'll check them out. I'll also check out the DB Exhaust Brake.
Ken
Old 05-31-2006, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
www.haisleymachine.com or www.scheiddiesel.com will have them. I don't understand why Cummins doesn't have them. Maybe the branch you are dealing with doesn't want to order them from a distribution center...
what do the springs run?
Old 05-31-2006, 08:20 PM
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Piers has them along with an inexpensive tool for installation.
Most of the e-brake suppliers also stock them.
Old 06-01-2006, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 12valve
what do the springs run?
http://www.scheiddiesel.com/cummins_engine_parts.htm
http://www.haisleymachine.com/PERFOR...20PRODUCTS.htm

I think Haisley has the best price for them. KD tool 2078 is the preferred valve spring compressor. Stay away from the Lisle tool.
Old 06-01-2006, 05:23 PM
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Here are some instructions, that'll make that job a little easier. By the way, check out Pacbrakes new PRXB brake, light years ahead of anyone elses.

On the Cummins B series motor you can change the valve springs on 2
>cyl's at a time.
>The thing to remember is that # 1 & 6 are a pair, # 2 & 5 are paired &
># 3 &
>4 are paired.
>You'll need a KD 2078 valve spring compressor, about $25.00 @ PDR or
>any tool place that handles KD tools.
>A 3/8 drive torque wrench & a 1/2 drive torque wrench. 13mm,15mm,18mm,
>9/16", 7/8" or 15/16" wrenches and sockets, .010" & .020" feeler gauges
>& a short flat screw driver [for setting valves afterwards] Now clean
>the area around your valve covers, then remove valve covers. Use your
>7/8" short socket and place it in the reverse position & attach it to
>the alternator nut, note, some alternators take a 15/16" socket. You'll
>only be able to turn the motor over backwards, but that is fine.
>Use the rachet to move the engine & watch your valves, you are looking
>for an intake valve to be on its way up [doesn't matter what cyl.] Once
>you've spotted the valve that's moving, lets just pretend that's it's #
>2, watch it as it comes up. As it approches the top watch the exhaust
>valve, as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down STOP That means
>that-that cyl. is on exhaust stroke [TDC] and its mate is on
>compression stroke.[you can check this by feeling the rockers on the
>other cyl. [in this case # 5] & they should both be loose] Now remove
>the rocker block, loosen the small bolt first [13mm head], then the big
>bolt [18mm head] Use your thumb & forefinger to hold the push rods in
>place as you lift the rocker block off. You can now safely remove the
>valve springs [intake or exhaust] on that cyl. once you put that cyl.
>back together [the big bolt gets torqued first 120ft. lbs then the
>little bolt 18 ft. lbs. You can now move onto it's mates cyl & repeat
>the procedure. So now you've done cyls. # 2& 5, rotate the engine some
>more until you spot the intake valve coming up & the exhaust valve JUST
>STARTING TO MOVE DOWN STOP you're now ready to do that pair of
>cylinders. A little trick that makes things easier, when you install
>the new valve spring into the compressor, crank it into the tool to put
>some preload on the spring before tightening the valve spring
>compressor, that'll make it a littler easier to get the spring on the valve. The reason for this is the KD 2078 is a short throw compressor & the new 60lb springs are a little long for it.
>When you do get to do # 5 & 6 cly.....the fun ones that little trick
>will make life much easier. Now once you've done all the cyl., you'll
>want to check the valve clearances. That is always done on a cold motor, .010"
>intake, .020" exhaust. If you roll the engine over till # 1 cyl is on
>compression stroke [ watch the valves on # 6 cyl. same thing, as intake
>comes up & exhaust JUST starts to move down STOP you are now on exhaust
>stroke of # 6 & compression stroke # 1 ] So you can now set some valves.
>I've tried to show below how the valves are layed out in your motor.
>You can now set the valves that are marked with the *. Then roll your
>engine over 360 degrees [ now both valves on #1 cyl will be tight &
>both valves on #6 cyl will be loose] & set all the valves that are marked with a @ sign.
>
>Piers
>
> e @
> 6 i @
> e *
> 5 i @
> e @
> 4 i *
> e *
> 3 i @
> e @
> 2 i *
> e *
> 1 i *
>
>
>
>
>
Old 06-01-2006, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kantdrive55
You might want to take a look at our brake. The BD brake uses a different method of regulating the back pressure. The engine is good for 60lbs of back pressure. Our safety is built into the cylinder. It essentially is a spring setup for 60lbs. If the backpressure exceeds 60psi it will push the brake open to relieve the excess pressure. Once it is below 60 it closes again. Pac has drilled a hole in the butterfly valve so the brake will never build more than 60psi. The problem there is you do most of your driving between 1800-2200rpm. With a hole in the valve you are going to lose most of your low rpm braking through that hole. Ours because we have the solid butterfly will work much better at the rpm you are driving at. Give us a call if you have any questions.
I have sat and thought about about this comment and enough is enough. As a salesman he is full of s#$t. Pack Brake makes a similar system to allow full brakeing at low rpm it is the PRXB. I am not connected with Pac Brake.
I have hauled many a load down slippery roads. We used to have what is knowen as a 3 stage jake to compensate for the road condition, not only that an engine brake loses braking power at lower rpm.
I have Pack Brack none PRXB. Now if I need to have more brakeing power I will shift down to bring up the rpm.The real power to this system is I can control how much rear wheel brake power I am applying.If you are going down a slippery road and use full rear wheal exhaust brake power pulling a trailer JACKKNIFE. Kantdrive55 you might what to think about the safety of your cutomers over a sale.
Old 06-06-2006, 03:51 AM
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Talking Pacbrake

I just installed the Pacbrake PRXB and love it, don't know why I didn't install it along time ago, it sure would have saved my brakes. Easy and very good instructions to install. Well it did take awhile. Most time was putting the elbow on bymyself.
Just my two cents worth from Tucson
Old 06-06-2006, 04:39 AM
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but how do they work on a auto?
Old 06-06-2006, 09:34 AM
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Hello,what Holds The Valve Up Compression? Or Since On A Gas Motor You Add Air To The Clyinder.
Sorry If This Is A Dumb Question
Old 06-06-2006, 09:42 AM
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The pistons protrude about .024" above the block @ TDC, so the valve only drops a little bit, before the piston holds it up.
Old 06-06-2006, 09:48 AM
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Thats Too Cool Thanks,i Like Those Instructions Too.
Old 06-06-2006, 10:31 AM
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fast 5.9 thanks for the install instructions they are very helpfull


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