Espar install
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 7,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran a second line. I have a fass on mine with 3/8" line, so the stock steel fuel lines were just sitting there. I ran the fuel line that came with the heater through the factory fuel lines. I drilled the pickup and installed the draw straw that came with the heater in it. There is a second straw in the pickup already that you can use if you like, but I had it out and the whole pickup unit was wrecked, so I fixed that and just installed the new draw straw. You can tee it, and unless you have a leak that air can get in, it should suck from the tank only. That being said, if they are mutually exclusive, then a problem with one won't lead to a problem with the other. If you're gonna go with a second pickup, just jack the left side of the bed up, don't drop the tank. Theres lots of room under there too work. Remove the left bolts, and loosen the right. I didn't even have to take my filler neck off.
dieselman, my espar is a fully contained unit. I was under the impression that the gas versions were with the external fuel pump, but I also thought the water pump was internal, so I don't know. Mine is just a single circuit, no tee's. I think if you teed it in the heater hoses, it might just circulate in the heater core and not do much in the engine block. Path of least resistance. Just do everything in series. Engine> Heater Core> Espar> Engine. You won't loose any heating capacity when the engine is running, and the espar when off will act like a small aux rad.
dieselman, my espar is a fully contained unit. I was under the impression that the gas versions were with the external fuel pump, but I also thought the water pump was internal, so I don't know. Mine is just a single circuit, no tee's. I think if you teed it in the heater hoses, it might just circulate in the heater core and not do much in the engine block. Path of least resistance. Just do everything in series. Engine> Heater Core> Espar> Engine. You won't loose any heating capacity when the engine is running, and the espar when off will act like a small aux rad.
#17
Registered User
Tate,
Let me get this straight (bad cold so head is plugged up and the old brain isnt working to well now).
You cut the return heater hose and ran it to the Espar, and out of the Espar back to the other side of the cut hose? So in other words you just did a loop through the Espar?
You dont have any problems with heat when the Espar is off? I guess that means the waterpump is a flow through design.
I was under the assumption that you had to tee into the lines, the directions arent the greatest.
Thanks for your help.
Let me get this straight (bad cold so head is plugged up and the old brain isnt working to well now).
You cut the return heater hose and ran it to the Espar, and out of the Espar back to the other side of the cut hose? So in other words you just did a loop through the Espar?
You dont have any problems with heat when the Espar is off? I guess that means the waterpump is a flow through design.
I was under the assumption that you had to tee into the lines, the directions arent the greatest.
Thanks for your help.
#18
Registered User
dieselman, my espar is a fully contained unit. I was under the impression that the gas versions were with the external fuel pump, but I also thought the water pump was internal, so I don't know. Mine is just a single circuit, no tee's. I think if you teed it in the heater hoses, it might just circulate in the heater core and not do much in the engine block. Path of least resistance. Just do everything in series. Engine> Heater Core> Espar> Engine. You won't loose any heating capacity when the engine is running, and the espar when off will act like a small aux rad.[/QUOTE]
---------Heater Core---->-----Espar---->---Engine-->---
l l
l l
l l
----------------<------Cyl. Head---------------<-------
Sorry so primative, I tryed to scan the Espar directions but it didnt come out to well.
I am thinking this is how you ran yours, no tees just a loop?
Also, I just checked my Espar and it says diesel on it. It has the fuel pump and the water pump seperate.
---------Heater Core---->-----Espar---->---Engine-->---
l l
l l
l l
----------------<------Cyl. Head---------------<-------
Sorry so primative, I tryed to scan the Espar directions but it didnt come out to well.
I am thinking this is how you ran yours, no tees just a loop?
Also, I just checked my Espar and it says diesel on it. It has the fuel pump and the water pump seperate.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 7,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
---------Heater Core---->-----Espar---->---Engine-->---
l l
l l
l l
----------------<------Cyl. Head---------------<-------
Sorry so primative, I tryed to scan the Espar directions but it didnt come out to well.
I am thinking this is how you ran yours, no tees just a loop?
Also, I just checked my Espar and it says diesel on it. It has the fuel pump and the water pump seperate.
#22
Registered User
The Espar is a diesel fired hydronic boiler that hooks into your trucks coolant system. It has a small fuel pump that goes from the tank to the Espar. It also has a waterpump built into it to circulate the coolant.
It runs on a 7 day timer that you can set to fire 3 times a day. You can also set it up so it will turn on your blower motor, so you have a warm interior and a defrosted window.
I bought mine through lubricationspecialists.com for $1100.00 shipped. Greg Landuyt (owner of lubricationspecilists has the best prices around and hes right in Indiana)
http://www.espar.com/
You can also now get these as an option on new Dodge Ram CTD.
It runs on a 7 day timer that you can set to fire 3 times a day. You can also set it up so it will turn on your blower motor, so you have a warm interior and a defrosted window.
I bought mine through lubricationspecialists.com for $1100.00 shipped. Greg Landuyt (owner of lubricationspecilists has the best prices around and hes right in Indiana)
http://www.espar.com/
You can also now get these as an option on new Dodge Ram CTD.
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 7,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its worth the money. I paid more than that, and I'd still do it again. It will be at 75C if I let it run for about 90 minutes in -15 weather. And where I work, theres not much for outlets, and with the pump/injector combo, it stumbles alot when cold started, so this is a life saver.
#25
Registered User
Its worth the money. I paid more than that, and I'd still do it again. It will be at 75C if I let it run for about 90 minutes in -15 weather. And where I work, theres not much for outlets, and with the pump/injector combo, it stumbles alot when cold started, so this is a life saver.
Tate,
How many times have you cycled your Espar without starting/charging the batteries?
The reason I ask, is I get early quits all the time. I would like to cycle it more than the 3 times a day.
I also have 2 brand new Optima Red Tops. I was thinking about adding a 3rd one, maybe a blue top or yellow top, for the extra capacity.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
coiler33
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
2
09-24-2008 09:08 PM
Mlucas
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
24
11-27-2007 04:30 PM
Special Blend
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
1
11-21-2007 09:52 AM