Ok kinda a newbie question but educate me a little on all the stuff you guys do to your engines when you are running higher Boost PSI. I think i might have a sorta idea but not much. Basically what are all the options bigger head gaskets, o rings, fire rings, etc... i cant recal all the stuff i have heard but i don know in reality what each do.

Also give me an idea of expenses and amount of labor put into it, and what PSI you need to start thinking about it.

Thanks
Rob

 

50 psi and you should have already gotten head studs. Cost anywhere from 450-800

 

Alright why are head studs better then the studs already in the truck? I can understand they are stronger but why?

Also what are the o rings for and different gaskets? Educate me on all of this or send me to someplace i can read about it.

Thanks
ROb

 

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stock the head has bolts, not studs. so when you tighten them, your turning a nut, not a bolt. which gives you greater holding pressure and a more accurate reading.

 

Studs have more clamping force. Also, by torquing a nut, you are not twisting a bolt shank to apply torque. In other words, it's mo better.

O-rings are cut into a cylinder head and a piece of wire is inserted. A portion of the wire extends out of the head surface, commonly called protrusion. The amount and diameter of wire can vary depending on builder, tools or intended use. These rings apply pressure to the fire ring built into the head gasket.

Fire rings are cut into the head and usually the block as well. The fire ring is removed from the gasket, but a gasket is still used.

Thicker head gaskets are used to compensate for engine block or cylinder head machining. Also, they are used to put more distance in the piston to head relation if a guy may want to run a bigger cam, reduce compression or ensure RPM induced valve float keeps the valves and pistons apart from each other.

Dave

 

-12 mm Studs start at $450.00
-O-ring for the head is $350.00, if you remove it and take it in.
-Marine Gasket (.020 over) - $100.00
-Decking the head - $100.00
Stiffer valve springs recommended but not essential - $400.00

Now you in great shape for 60 - 70 psi boost.... Just don't try to get it from your stock turbo.

RJ

 

Ok thanks FIshing to Deep that was what i was looking for, now 0 rings and fire rings...excuse my ignorance i am not much of a machanic...they would be gasketing for the coolent piping in the engine/head...? And that is stronger then just a regular gasket and studs?

Once again thanks
Rob
ps id try to do more searching but the internet is so slow over here that it just becomes rediculous.

 

The o-rings and fire rings sole job is to keep compression gases inside the cylinder. If they escape, the gasket typically blow out. Sometimes water or oil flows from the head, sometimes they mix. Either way, not good. The gasket simply serves as seal for the fluids. The fire ring in the gasket is further compressed by o-rings. Obviously it must be removed to do fire rings.

And sometime the head gets lifted, this also lets the combustion gases out. We are all trying to keep that high speed hot stuff where we want it. And in the place where it can be made into more power.

So, it's not a strength issue completely. It's about segregation.

Did this just become a political thread?


Dave

 

So how about some applications? O-Ring head vs fire rings? Daily driver and or full on performance? Max boost for both? Logevity?

 

i fire ringed my head and i think they look alot stronger but o-rings last longer so its all up to you

 

Agreed!
I had early firerings. They held for 4 yrs and 100,000 miles before cracking and tearing up my valves as two pieces skipped around all 6 cylinders.
O-rings, if done well, seem to hold up better and are cheaper. Firerings probably hold more pressure on project trucks...say over 80 psi boost... but are not recommended for daily drivers!

RJ

 

Im putting a new set of rings in my on my moter rebuild i had a 53 block that went south lol but i guess ill pull the head in 50,000 miles and drop a new set just to be on the safe side i dont wanna wreck my head or valves... but i dont really see how they could have come out of the groves??? they have an awful lot of pressure clamping them down and in place.

 

THanks for the replies.

 

I had a 1" piece on cyl # 3 (and same on #4) break off and rattle around.
My guess is high copper content (on earlier Firerings) along with repeated heating and cooling took a toll. This may be why earlier Firerings were not recommended for DD.
Don't know if they still make that disclaimer. Heard somewhere the copper content was reduced.

RJ

 

If you run more than 80psi you should use the 625 arp's. With the 625 you may want to run more protrusion on the orings. The standard arps are 125 ft*lbs and the 625 are 155 ft*lbs. Stock are 80ft*lbs, I think, its been awhile since I used a set. When you get your head done find out what wire they use and how deep they cut the grove.