HOHN

On YOUR truck, 35psi is pushing it. On *my* truck, 35psi isn't as big a deal.

The difference is the smaller stock turbo you have vs. other CTDs. You have the HY35- with the 9cm housing, while most other 2nd gens have the HX35 with a 12cm housing.

I didn't realize that earlier, or I wouldn't have told you to do something you can't (pipe plug the wg).

nickg

Hohn
So whats the reccommended safe max boost for my turbo? 30? I know someone locally who has a HX (if he has not sold it already) Would moving to a HX be of an benefit to me? realising that my truck is as bombed as its going to be, and a performance turbo is not something I'm going to buy.
The hy is no slouch in the spool dept, it only takes a second to build boost and at hi-way speeds boost is there in an instant. I'm guessing the HX will be a bit slower but more effecient?

Fishin2Deep4U

I ran my HY up to about 34 psi.

A HX will spool slightly slower and offer a small amount of EGT relief if needed.

Dave

RowJ

Max boost for the HY-35 is about 32 psi. The HY-35 is good to about 38 psi and flows more air.
With the EZ and you injectors, the lag from the HX-35 would not be very noticable, would be easy to get use to and would be a perfect upgrade.
The change was made, on automatics, in 2001 for emmissions reasons.... not drivability reasons.

If your sure your not going higher in HP, and the HX for sale is in good shape, I'd jump on it!
But beware. Many HX-35's have been heavily overworked as members added fuel long before adding more air.
Housing discoloration and/or shaft 'slop' are telltail signs.

RJ

HOHN

Nick, RowJ and Fishin' are giving you excellent advice above.

A used HX35 that "has a tan" has been worked pretty hard. My turbo shows no such discoloration-- my truck has never seen sustained high EGT. You'd honestly want a used turbo that was similarly spared the sustained high EGT.

Shaft play is another consideration-- less is better. An HX can be rebuilt for relatively little money (see High Tech Turbo for parts).

I don't know of any guys running an HX35 with an auto trans that complain about lag unless they have a VERY tight converter and live in very thin air (6K+ elevation). If live in thin air, then you have to account for that.

You last statement about "slower but more efficient" is almost universally true for ANY traditional turbo. Inefficiency is the price paid for enhanced response. For example, a larger 14cm housing in place of a 12cm housing on the same turbo will reduce response slightly but improve efficiency slightly.

If you never plan to add more power than your EZ and injectors combination, then a stock HX35 from another CTD will work well at minimal cost. I'd recommend plugging the wastegate hole (pipe plug) unless you can send the turbo over 35psi in cold, dense air.

35psi in cold winter air is very different from the turbo's perspective than 35psi in hot summer air in high elevation. The turbo has to spin much faster to make the same boost when the air is less dense.

On my truck, the stock HX35 performed very well with an EZ and 90hp injectors, so I think your friend's HX35 would work very well on your truck.

JMO