berner

I finally got my converter installed yesterday. All I can say is . It works like an auto tranny should. The tach even drops when it shifts. I've got some tweaking to do with the low RPM fueling as it's a little doggy out of the hole now, but that's just details. Loading up the slide-in camper tonight and hitting the lake. Happy Camper here.

Mcmopar

Did you do anything other than the converter?

MnTom

Amazing just how much of a differance a TQ make, ain't it? Betcha didn't realize how much power you actually had there too.

berner

I had the trans completely rebuilt with a shift kit for now. I'll add a DTT Valve body later. I'm pretty much done with mods so I don't think I need upgraded shafts etc. Yea Right

SHARPMACHINE

berner,

Hello, I hope that I dont break any rules with this ?, but what was the cost of the torque converter, and what shift kit did you go with, how much did that cost?? Problem is I need to get mine done asap, but Im tight fisted evan though I want it done right!! Please share this or pm me and let me know.


thank-you v-much

Mcmopar

Why would you bother with valve body if you have already done the shift kit? It's the same thing except you pay for someone else to do it in a valve body.

berner

Sorry to take so long getting back but I had a hard drive crash.
The TC is listed on DTT's site at $925. I had to get a different switch valve and some input shaft rings which were about $20. I had a Transgo kit installed. If I would have went with the DTT TC at first, I would've got a valvebody instead.

berner

I was told by a pretty reputable tranny guy that a shift kit increases line pressure by 50%, ie. 60 psi to 90 psi, where-as a valvebody doubles line pressure.

Mcmopar

I'd look into that one!

SHARPMACHINE

berner and Mcmopar,

Thank you for the replies. Does anyone know, is that $925 T.C. a single or triple disk or??

Mcmopars question is a good one does anyone really know if a valve body is better than a shift kit or what.

thank-you everyone!!!!

BigBlue

The valve body is far better than a shift kit. Not only does it up the line pressures, it adjusts shift points and TC lock up and stuff. It's also custom tuned to work with your particular application, thus giving you the utmost performance possible.

Mcmopar

A properly installed shift kit does the same thing, If you are only looking to raise your line pressure you need nothing but an allen wrench. These shift kits have shuttle valves, springs and spacers for the servo's. And you can custom tailor your valve body to your application.

RowJ

Isn't this info is still valid
http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=136

AlpineRAM

I'd like to start my post with stating the fact that I am a happy DTT customer. And that what I learned about the 47re is from Bill K from DTT. Nevertheless I've got some experience on other automatic trannies.
I think that Bill's point is that you have to have leakage control to get a good transmission. And that you'll have to have the right clearances etc when building one. The stock trannies have really wild variations in clearances and sealing. (Therefore some guys are running hundreds of thousands of miles without an issue and others having the tranny fail without many miles)
Bill's argument that if the leak isn't in the VB or the TC and you have a tranny fail because the ATF blows out of a leak instead of applying full pressure to a clutch swapping those parts only won't remedy the problem seems very straightforward to me. (And a shiftkit won't help either)
When I had my tranny apart and since the return freight of the old TC would have been more than the core I cut it open. After the discussions about TCs I measured the diameters etc and compared them to the other clutches in the system. Assuming even apply pressures for all clutches the TC lockup clutch was the strongest. So I didn't see the necessity of an even stronger lockup system. Naturally, all things equal you could say that a multi disc TC lockup clutch will hold the same torque with less apply pressure. My thoughts were to go over everything and put in good seals and have enough apply pressure for my single disc DTT TC.
This works for me for more than 100 k miles now.
Another point about the shiftkits- I don't want to say that they are bad, but to be able to, as Mcmopar says, tune them for your specific application you'll have to know your stuff around the auto really good. If you screw up you will possibly end up with a complete teardown of the tranny because something has burned up and destroyed and contaminated the rest.

I know that this isn't an advice like go there and do that- which would be impossible because of the differences between individual trucks, the use of them, the abilities of the respective owners etc.
I don't want to bash any other brand of aftermarket tranny makers, I just want to state my experience with the product and the philosophy I chose. (And why it still seems a very good idea to me)

AlpineRAM

berner

Very informative post, AlpineRAM. Not knowing the condition of the seals in my trans was the reason I didn't install a shift kit before the rebuild.
I'm sure liking this trans now. It's like a whole new truck.