Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Driving Light relay hook up, still problems

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Old 05-25-2004 | 03:08 PM
  #16  
jfpointer's Avatar
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From: Kansas City & Maysville, MO
Originally posted by Filmhog
The high beam indicator would be great. I was told it was a circuit board socket and not wired with a conventional....well....wire? Is that bunk?
Is it available from the loom below the steering column?
Thanks
Jan
Sorry, I'm at work so I don't have my FSM handy to look it up. I'll see if I can find anything later that indicates whether there's an actual wire for it somewhere or not.
Old 05-25-2004 | 04:15 PM
  #17  
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From: Reno. NV
Great Idea! The relay will not activate when the ground and high beam wire show both being +12 volts (like when the headlamp switch is off.). But when the headlamp switch is enabled on the dashboard, the ground goes to negative and if the highbeam is activated, the relay works and triggers the sense wire (white wire with black dots) to the PIAA's. Correct? No chance of shorting I guess if the ground and highbeam both are positive at the same time......
Very interesting. Thanks
Old 05-25-2004 | 04:30 PM
  #18  
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From: Austria Europe
I think you could also use a small relais to just open or close a connection to the sense wire. (as you stated) - I thought about switching the main current to the piaa relais. But if you want to keep the state LED without having to use the driving lights (in case the indicator in the dash went out) you'd just need to let the relais trigger the switching wire from the in cab switch. You'd have green on as an indicator for the high beams filament having power, and red for this condition plus driving lights working.

Where did you mount the lights? Any pics of your mounting brackets or the like?

AlpineRAM
Old 05-25-2004 | 06:52 PM
  #19  
Filmhog's Avatar
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From: Reno. NV
I mounted the lights on a chrome Rhino nerf bar assembly. All the chrome looks great. I like the idea of switching the sense wire. I want the green light to not be active unless the high beams are enabled. the green light is just too bright. I also fear it draws current when the truck is off.
I'll try to post a photo. I'm new to this.
Jan
Old 05-25-2004 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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From: Rising Sun, IN (out in the woods)
Here is how mine is hooked up...
Old 05-25-2004 | 11:00 PM
  #21  
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From: Kansas City & Maysville, MO
Cavity 9, Red/Gray wire on the Instrument panel connector C2 is supposed to be the high beam indicator driver. The description in the FSM makes it sound like it should have battery voltage only when the high beams are on. For whatever reason, the FSM shows the cavities numbered from right to left if you're looking into the connector. I can't seem to get Acrobat to let me copy the picture out of the PDF, sorry.
Old 07-15-2004 | 10:59 PM
  #22  
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From: Booneville, MS
I have a related problem with the way my driving lights are hooked up. I hooked mine up directly to the right-side high beam wire (white to blue-white wire) and black to ground. This works in that they come on perfectly when the high beams are turned on. Keep in mind that I said they come on fine. The problem is... when I first crank my truck the "Lamp off or Lamp not working" light or whatever it says is flashing until I turn on my high beams then it goes off. Would it help to up the fuse and where is the fuse for the high beams?? OR, am I gonna run into a lot of problems later on if I don't add in a relay? Thanks for any help.

_________________________________
2003 Dodge RAM 1500 4x4 Quad Dark Garnet Red w/ 20" wheels and tires, mesh grille and driving lights behind grille, just starting to "hook it up"
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