no offense intended .....little tougher to get a good image of the inside...this was the best one, took 5 total of the inlet but either dark or shadowed blah blah blah. Plus we all know the inlet can be roto-rooted, but does everyone know you can actually get a 1 1/2" wastegate into a 35 housing? Can't wait to bolt her up and try it out.

 

ATTENTION ALL YOU JUNEAU GUYS AND YES I'M YELLING!!! You must get in touch with the local chapter president got...DIESEL? we need to get together and get away from our wives and grunt about doin these mods and break stuff too!!!!

 

and swank....3 pressures (interstage, post second stage, and manifold), 4 temps (interstage, post second stage, post IC, and manifold post meth), 1 rpm (for graphing purposes), and 1 Mass Air (intake manifold)

Yeah the 'gate should work well once the actautor is adjusted properly so no flutter takes place.

 

so what have you come up with to manage all this stuff?

 

jury is still out on that one....easier said than done

 

i'm going to have a chat with my electrical engineering buddy. see if he's got any ideas. i'll let you know if he comes up with anything.

 

That is some sweet lookin work on that housing!!! Very informative.

THANKS FOR SHARING

 

PSHHHH, Wife has 2, She's winning, he is just a little slow......has he told you boys about the time I SPANKED him with my Volkswagen? 15 years ago back when he thought his 350 S-10 was the Best!
BTW got...DIESEL? in case you haven't put it together, I have managed to get into your "world", and figured out what your doing when you should be in bed with me, hanging out with boys. How do you guys put up with all his Mumbo Jumbo Blah Blah Blah? Better he ramble it all to you then me, however I have gotten very good at tuning him out, goes something like this, "blah blah blah ..... ...... ...... Tranny...... blah ......... broke......... blah ...........blah .......... again!.....!"

 

Got...WIFE??........................
!

got...DIESEL?........................
SSSSHHHHHHH!!!! She's found you, you gotta use some sort of code from now on!!!

 

Any test results yet with the wastegated housing?

 

not yet.....I was going put it on before the compounds, but it's a lot of work to make a back plate for just that reason, as the stage piping will be different. So I may wait until I get the rest of my pipe and put the primary on before I get to try it. I should still be able to tell from the drive pressures how it's doing. I'll keep everyone posted..........

 

i bet it would make a noticeable difference even with the stock backing plate. it would at least be better than looking at it.

 

yeah thinking about that one pretty hard....Northslope is biting at the bullet to get his hands on my housing so he can go on a date with his burr grinder again!!

 

wringing hands together!

 

so I've gotten a few requests to build some more housings or at least the parts to go into them. I am reserved about doing this for the simple reason I have not tested it yet and don't want to spread parts that don't work around the country. Additionally, each part should be made one off for each of your housings. Squeezing an 1 1/2 hole in a place that is just about 1 1/2" big is tricky business. Then you have to be sure you allow swing room for the flapper by the housing wall. This was a major stumbling block for me until I went ahead and run it on a mill and removed some of the inside wall.

What I will do though is outline what I did along the way and let you all run with it if you like and try it for yourself. One word of caution before we even get started.....with the added diameter of the valve, if you try and run the stock back plate, the valve will only open about an 1/8" or so, so I highly recommend either fabbing up your own merge collector to give the valve room to move, or buy a megamouth...which is the same principle. So here goes.....

The first modification requires a mill....you must plunge cut the entire bed of the 'gate area flat. The casting is very irregular and only a small seat area is machined for the stock gate, which is way too small. A good seal is crucial with a valve this large, or spool up will be affected. So don't cut corners and cut the entire bed nice and flat in relation to the gasket surface for reference. While plunge cutting the bed, using the same cutting tool, you should be able to remove some material from the inside walss of the housing. Using the the lines left by the old gasket, on the round side of the housing I machined the walls out to where the embossed ring of the copper gasket left its mark. Don't worry, the walls are still near 1/4 inch thick after this removal. This will leave a nice round pocket plenty large enough to allow the new , larger valve to swing open. On the wall where the wastegate lever comes through the housing, you'll notice it is alot thicker in the shaft bushing area.... machine this thick area down the same way...right to where the copper gasket left it's embossed ring mark. If you look closely at my pictures, you can see the ring marks. Okay now you are going to discard the original arm, so you'll have to grind off the outside link that has the pin on it for the actuator pivot. Be careful to just remove enough metal to pop the link off the arm...you're going to re-use this link on the new valve arm. Now you're ready to start removing material for a larger hole. I used a die grinder with a double cut bur, but an 1 1/2" plunge bit in a mill would be clean as well. Once this hole is 1 1/2" you'll will have removed enough metal so that the inner scroll walls are actaully part of the hole. You will take quite a bit of material from the inside scroll wall....but the casting is nearly an inch thick here, so don't fret about going to deep and into the outlet bore....you won't. Now it's time to remove the scroll devider to give the gate a nice plenum and the exhaust gasses a good flow access to the gate. My valve hole was used as a guide, and the devider was removed right down to the end of the gate hole. This is about as far as you can go anyway safely.....too much more and you may break through to the minor radius of the scroll....bad news. But you are safe to the gate hole no problem. That pretty much concludes the housing work. To make the valve flapper and lever I just used some 3/16" plate and cut out an 1 3/4" disc. This allows 1/8" seal area arounf the diameter of the hole. Is this enough? Don't know yet, but there's no room for anything bigger. As for the grade of steel used....just mild plate. Maybe that's an error maybe it's not. From playing with the original valve, it doesn't appear to be hardened or anything exotic. We'll find out in time. Besides a new valve is an easy fix if this one fails. On this disc I welded a steel pin, then chucked everything up in a lathe to make the pin square to the valve seat area, and to make the valve seat nice and flat. The lever I used a craftsman phillips screwdriver shaft. It fit the shaft hole perfectly and is a good grade alloy. I flattened one end of the shaft, then drilled a hole that was a little larger than than the pin on the valve. You want some slop here to make sure the valve is sealed to the housing. The stock valve is the same way. So leave a little extra length on the pin to allow some up and down slop as well as make your lever bore a few thousands oversize for some lateral slop. I then placed the shaft in the hole and with heat, bent it until the center of the flattened end bore was lined up in the center of the gate hole in the housing. To affix the valve to the shaft, drive a flat washer down over the pn on the valve and then weld it in place...remember to leave some vertical play for the valve. Now we turn to the exterior lever link. Becasue we want this valve to open a lot farther than the stock valve, but use the stock gate actuator, we have to change the link ratio. In English we are not going to re-use the hole in the link left from the original valve shaft. We want a hole closer to the center of the link, which will open the valve farther for the same actuator travel. I drilled the second hole so that the edges were "just" touching....or roughly 1/4" on center closer to the pivot point. Then weld the link on to the valve shaft and re-adjust your actautor rod length. Oh, and grind off the leftover link from the original pivot point. And be sure the spring in the actuator diaphram pre-loads the valve when closed with a little pressure to ensure it doesn't leak when you are adjusting your rod length. Presto you're done.....with exception to making or buying a new back plate to accomodate the larger valve and its near full open swing.

I haven't posted a picture since I attached the gate actuator...I will shoot an image or two when I go to work in the morning and post them tomorrow night to show how it looks when finished.

Fire away with the questions....

Chris