I was reading this thread, and a couple people mention drilling the exhaust manifold while the engine is running, for the EGT probe. Are they serious ???? I thought the exhaust goes through an impeller on the back side of the turbo like the blades on the intake side.
When my EGT gauge gets here, I was planning on taking the turbo off the manifold and greasing the drill bit as I've read here before.
What's the preferred method ?



https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=boost+gauge

 

Well, the *best* method is to take the manfold and turbo off the engine, and drill it on the bench!

What everyone else does is some level of "compromise", and they do what they can to help make sure nothing falls into the turbo.

With the engine running, there is backpressure in the manifold. Some have mentioned covering 1/2 the tailpipe with thick cardboard to create more backpressure, or engaging the exhaust brake, if they have one.

Some remove the turbo completely, some loosen it enough to slide something between the turbo and the manifold to act as a shield.

Many just go nice and slow, with a heavily greased drill bit.

I'm leaning towards the engine running/cardboard over the tailpipe method, but I do have a full face shield, as things WILL shoot back at you when the drill bit breaks through. Either that, or the cardboard between the turbo & manifold method.

 

Moose10,


I used tst recommendations. I used grease (and I also used a shop vacuum to get some of the chips) to drill the hole, stopping often to clean the drill and regreasing. Afterward, I tapped it the same way. When done tapping, I used a pencil magnet and fished out everything that I could. Removing the turbo was not needed. So check out tstproducts.com, do a search for more info and then do what you feel confortable with. just my .002

 

I pulled the turbo to install the first set of guages. After that I used the grease (same as SHARPMACHINE) and a flexible magnet to fish out the small chips. I have used this process on 4 other trucks with no ill effects.

 

The ONLY way to be sure nothing gets into the turbo is to remove it!! Doesn't take that long, four nuts, 2 bolts and an oil line. Better to be safe than sorry. Some of those other "cob job" methods HAVE cost people a turbo!!

So the question is: Do you feel luck today?

 

This is what I do then start it to blow debris out before bolting it back up. I reuse the gasket.

After coming across two damaged turbos due to a shaving stopping them dead then overheating I would never consider doing it with grease and magnets. This is how both the failed turbos were done.

Removing the four turbo bolts is really no big deal.

 

Yup,

What Infidel said.

 

Sounds like a plan to me infidel. Thanks !
No harm in starting it for a couple seconds without the turbo bolted on right?

 

Except for the oil squirting all over the place now from the turbo supply line.

 

I'm pondering what method I will end up using myself. All my other gauges are hooked up and working great...but the pyro is becoming a pain due to the fact that I am leaning towards using the cardboard between the manifold and turbo, but I can not get to the rear bottom nut on the turbo. Does anyone out there have any helpful hints on how to get to that nut and actually break it loose? I really don't want to have to pull the exhaust, oil feed and return as the chrysler service instructions say to do.

Mike

 

You don't have to disconnect the oil lines to slip a piece of cardboard in. On most rigs you don't even have to disconnect the exhaust down pipe, there will be enough slack to move it. What I've done is pull the turbo towards the side, slip in the cardboard, drill and tap, pull the turbo back again then with the cardboard against the turbo slip a screwdriver handle in to keep it open. Start the engine. Best to have the air cleaner attached as chips will fly.

 

you'd have to be REALLY careless to kill a turbo from a pyrometer install... a couple flakes of iron aren't going to kill a turbo... they'll blow right past the turbine and out the tailpipe.

just be carefull and follow the directions above, and you don't have to take the turbo off.

Forrest

 

The two trashed turbos I saw both were killed by the large chip that comes off when the bit busts though, later wedging between the impellor and housing.
On the same note some people have insurance their whole life and never use it.
Removing four bolts takes less time than fooling around with a magnet and grease and not really being sure what you're missing.
But hey it's your truck, I just know how I do it when I'm the one liable.

 

I removed the turbo from the manifold and used a shop vac to such the chips out while drilling and taping. I taped it to the manifold. I inspected with a mirror after and didn't even see any metal dust in the manifold. Than just reinstalled. Just 2 more cents.

 

I used the same method as infidel, slipped a piece of aluminum between the turbo, used the shop vac while drilling, and grease while tapping. Left a small gap between turbo and manifold, and ran for about 15 seconds to blow out anything I may have gotten in the manifold.
IMHO that is the best method to tap the manifold. Heck that was the easiest part of the gauges install.

wayne