Does your truck have Load Range "D" tires ??
#16
Originally Posted by rjohnson
Nothing wrong with good quality "D" tires in 285's and up... as mentioned above.... as long as your not towing heavy. JMO
I got 65,000 miles out of Michelin 285/75/16's and they are still going on another truck that drives local only. Did lots of hauling at 9,000 lb +/-with no problems due to 65 psi pressure max.
My new 315's look great... but don't handle as well on the stock, 8" wheels.
RJ
I got 65,000 miles out of Michelin 285/75/16's and they are still going on another truck that drives local only. Did lots of hauling at 9,000 lb +/-with no problems due to 65 psi pressure max.
My new 315's look great... but don't handle as well on the stock, 8" wheels.
RJ
Hey RJ, looks like the truck is runnin' good! Have you had a chance to dyno since the tire change? I'd be real interested to see the change on paper. I was told that you will see less HP and more TORQUE with the taller rubber. Mine was a bit disproportionate at 435hp and 1006 lbs.
#17
Originally Posted by Katmandu
I believe D RANGE ends at 122 and E RANGE starts at 123. I'll post a Chart I found on here shortly.
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http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoLoadIndex.dos
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#18
Here's some interesting #s between a C, D and E Load Ratings for the SAME make/model tire.
The tire is a MasterCraft Courser A/T .
http://www.mastercrafttires.com/us/e...=LtTruck&id=85
The number of belts a tire has dictates what the load range will be.
D Load Range tires have (8) belts where E Load Range tires have (10) belts.
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The tire is a MasterCraft Courser A/T .
http://www.mastercrafttires.com/us/e...=LtTruck&id=85
- [*]
The number of belts a tire has dictates what the load range will be.
D Load Range tires have (8) belts where E Load Range tires have (10) belts.
.
#19
Originally Posted by Katmandu
The number of belts a tire has dictates what the load range will be.
D Load Range tires have (8) belts where E Load Range tires have (10) belts.
.
The actual # of belts has nothing to do with a tires strenth.
Today tires can have a 10 ply rating, or be called 10 ply, when they actually have far fewer plys, but they will have the same strenth.
Better construction methods, better materials.
I found this out when I was reading the # of plys on my E tire sidewall and it had like only 4 on the bottom (2 steel, 2 something else) and 2 on the sidewalls. I was hey you sold me a cheap tire! Its not a 10 ply!! I was eating crow soon though and even if crow is not my favorite dish I was glad to have gained the knowlege (and peace of mind).
Big Jimmy
#20
Originally Posted by Beast2B
Hey RJ, looks like the truck is runnin' good! Have you had a chance to dyno since the tire change?
I'm very interested also! Have not dynoed since 315's but " Tx Outlaw Diesel Racing Association" has a dyno day set for April 1st.; and it's on the same dyno as my last set of #'s.
Will let you know.
RJ
#21
Originally Posted by Silverjay
I run BFG 285/75/16's and don't have any problems from a handling or load standpoint. But I have cracking in the tires and BFG will not warranty them because the truck calls for E range and mine are D.
How much weight have you been towing on them ??
#22
Ok, so before I go out to buy a set of E rated tires, let me ask you this. The most I have ever hauled....with my explorer and 7000lb capacity trailer was 5000lbs of rock...(ok to laugh here). The usually hauling I do is feed, 1500lbs, hay, 3000-4000lbs and an occasional car, and then scrap metal....somewhere around 3000-4000lbs. So would that be considered heavy hauling? I know some of you guys are hauling 200-300 square bales, 20 rounds, that's 20,000lbs....would that be the heavy hauling?? I'm just wondering if it's ok and safe or if it's questionalble ok and safe. Cause if it's questionalble ok and safe...I'll buy the tires....don't want to kill anyone while hauling something.
Good chart buy the way, gonna go look at my tires again. I know I saw 3000lbs at max air pressure. I set mine at 50 cause I have yet to haul anything, this was before I knew they were not heavy enough and looking for a little cushion....not anymore though. Also tire wear in the front, checked the alignment at work yesterday and it's good but kinda going to the left. We set the steering wheel and changed air pressure a little and then on the way home it was pulling very slight to the right. Now I'm wondering if it's a combination of my tire pressure and tire rating.
Good chart buy the way, gonna go look at my tires again. I know I saw 3000lbs at max air pressure. I set mine at 50 cause I have yet to haul anything, this was before I knew they were not heavy enough and looking for a little cushion....not anymore though. Also tire wear in the front, checked the alignment at work yesterday and it's good but kinda going to the left. We set the steering wheel and changed air pressure a little and then on the way home it was pulling very slight to the right. Now I'm wondering if it's a combination of my tire pressure and tire rating.
#23
Originally Posted by rjohnson
Galen
I'm very interested also! Have not dynoed since 315's but " Tx Outlaw Diesel Racing Association" has a dyno day set for April 1st.; and it's on the same dyno as my last set of #'s.
Will let you know.
RJ
I'm very interested also! Have not dynoed since 315's but " Tx Outlaw Diesel Racing Association" has a dyno day set for April 1st.; and it's on the same dyno as my last set of #'s.
Will let you know.
RJ
Where will that be held?
#24
D-Rated Blowout
I survived a near catastrophic blowout with my D-rated 285-75-16 Bridgestone A/T's. The right front blew with about five seconds notice. Luckily I was in the right lane southbound on Interstate 15 here in SoCal and managed to make it to the shoulder but not before tire material did $3300.00 damage to my truck! I am lucky AAA fixed it as I was running inadequate rubber. Currently I am running BFG's in the same size and rating as there were no E-rated 285's at the time(two years ago). BFG and Toyo now offer them and I plan to upgrade soon. Until it happens to you you don't think it's that neccessary. These trucks come equipped with E-rated tires for a reason.
#25
Originally Posted by Katmandu
Very interesting!
How much weight have you been towing on them ??
How much weight have you been towing on them ??
Drum roll ...... 1,500 lbs. I know that is almost too much, but I like to live on the wild side. The tires are cracking all the way around the tires where the bead transitions to the sidewall.
#27
I run D-Rated 285/75/R-16 Mastercraft Courser C/T's. I am very happy with them. No problems so far. I had a total of 18k lbs or more not too long ago hsauling my buddies truck to the shop, and no problems. I haul quite a bit in the summer, and havent had any problems with the D's.
My 285's in D rating are only rated around 100lbs less than a 265 in E rating.
LT265/75R16 3415 lbs
LT285/75R16 3305 lbs
Eric
My 285's in D rating are only rated around 100lbs less than a 265 in E rating.
LT265/75R16 3415 lbs
LT285/75R16 3305 lbs
Eric
#30
two ways to look at what yo need for a tire...
1) determient he max load yo figure you will ever tow, plus teh weight of teh vehicle and bu a tire in that range.. thats ussually the wrong and cheap way.
2) look at what the manufactor recommends and stay in that range.
Now, a disclaimer before I tell this story, I KNOW THIS IS NOT THE NORM!....
1990 I was investigating officer on a fatality accident. A One-ton dually hauling a 1200 lb round bale flipped, landing on a little Toyo.....driver of the Toyo was killed.. I determined primary cause of accident was a blow-out on the duallys LF tire, causeing it to go into teh grass median , where it flipped into oncoming lane..
almost a year later I get supenaed to give a deposition about the wreck, made me look like an idiot...the driver is suing his insurance company, they refused to cover the accident.
Q: Officer, did you check the tread wear on the tires?
A: yes sir, they were in an acceptable and safe condition, almost new .
Q: Did you check the size and load rating of the tires?
A: Size yes.............. uh..... whats a load rating?
Turns out the guy had bought "C" tires less than a week before. Ford recommended "D" tires, and that was what actually caused the accident per the insurance company.....the insurance company refused to cover him because he was not operating the vehicle "legaly and safely" , whiich was the wording of his policy....
Just food for thought ...
1) determient he max load yo figure you will ever tow, plus teh weight of teh vehicle and bu a tire in that range.. thats ussually the wrong and cheap way.
2) look at what the manufactor recommends and stay in that range.
Now, a disclaimer before I tell this story, I KNOW THIS IS NOT THE NORM!....
1990 I was investigating officer on a fatality accident. A One-ton dually hauling a 1200 lb round bale flipped, landing on a little Toyo.....driver of the Toyo was killed.. I determined primary cause of accident was a blow-out on the duallys LF tire, causeing it to go into teh grass median , where it flipped into oncoming lane..
almost a year later I get supenaed to give a deposition about the wreck, made me look like an idiot...the driver is suing his insurance company, they refused to cover the accident.
Q: Officer, did you check the tread wear on the tires?
A: yes sir, they were in an acceptable and safe condition, almost new .
Q: Did you check the size and load rating of the tires?
A: Size yes.............. uh..... whats a load rating?
Turns out the guy had bought "C" tires less than a week before. Ford recommended "D" tires, and that was what actually caused the accident per the insurance company.....the insurance company refused to cover him because he was not operating the vehicle "legaly and safely" , whiich was the wording of his policy....
Just food for thought ...