do I have the right output for my mods
#1
do I have the right output for my mods
Hello Guys
I have a 98 12V with 3kgsk's, dd2's, a #10 plate, and a PDRhx35 (14wg), ats stage 5 tranny
I ran the truck at the local dyno day and was not happy with the numbers I got
first off I pull ~10K with the truck, to pull this with out high egt I have pulled my plate all the way back. I have not done the GOV arm adjustment but it hits close to the lower edge of the #10 I can pull the 10K donw I76 outside denver at 80 and the egt never gets over 1200*
when I did the dyno run it came back with 262 hp, ~500 some odd TQ
on a related note I also have a 02 ho that dynoed stock at ~247hp, well the 98 pulls much harder than the 02. which makes me feel like the 98 has a higher out put than 262?
so my questions are
1. what should the 98 be puting out (best guess)
2. If I swap to a 16 housing how much farther could I push the plate forward (best guess)
Thanks for any advice
Jason
I have a 98 12V with 3kgsk's, dd2's, a #10 plate, and a PDRhx35 (14wg), ats stage 5 tranny
I ran the truck at the local dyno day and was not happy with the numbers I got
first off I pull ~10K with the truck, to pull this with out high egt I have pulled my plate all the way back. I have not done the GOV arm adjustment but it hits close to the lower edge of the #10 I can pull the 10K donw I76 outside denver at 80 and the egt never gets over 1200*
when I did the dyno run it came back with 262 hp, ~500 some odd TQ
on a related note I also have a 02 ho that dynoed stock at ~247hp, well the 98 pulls much harder than the 02. which makes me feel like the 98 has a higher out put than 262?
so my questions are
1. what should the 98 be puting out (best guess)
2. If I swap to a 16 housing how much farther could I push the plate forward (best guess)
Thanks for any advice
Jason
#3
"on a related note I also have a 02 ho that dynoed stock at ~247hp, well the 98 pulls much harder than the 02. which makes me feel like the 98 has a higher out put than 262?"
The dyno (even though they call it the "Lie Detector", were you at Greeley?) doesn't tell the whole story. It mostly measures accelleration, the ability to increase RPM. A loaded truck can pull like crazy at steady-state speed with lots of boost but the dyno won't measure this. A slower rear-end ratio also will feel like more power than a faster ratio when accellerating.
I don't know what my HP and TQ is, but it's more than I need.
The dyno (even though they call it the "Lie Detector", were you at Greeley?) doesn't tell the whole story. It mostly measures accelleration, the ability to increase RPM. A loaded truck can pull like crazy at steady-state speed with lots of boost but the dyno won't measure this. A slower rear-end ratio also will feel like more power than a faster ratio when accellerating.
I don't know what my HP and TQ is, but it's more than I need.
#4
could have been a lame dyno...did u do the dyno run witht he tc locked?? sounds like u didnt....also since u pulled the plate back are u sure the gov arm is adjusted and ur getting proper rack travel?....and pulling it back all the way may really cut ur fuel delivery (i dunno never tried..but it may really make a difference)..
#5
I cant get the full story from any one as to how the gov arm/plate work with each other
it seems that the arm starts low and as rpm rise the arm rises along the plate proflie (as long as the go pedal is telling it to keep going)
I think when the gov arm/ rack travel get to the rpm that matches the go pedal the arm pulls back a ways
if the load starts to bring the rpm lower than the go pedal says it should be the arm moves fwd against the plate and if the rpm keeps going down the arm will start to move down the plate (giving more rack travel)
Am I understanding how this works?
I just changed to a 16 housing and Im gonna go test drive it now.........
it seems that the arm starts low and as rpm rise the arm rises along the plate proflie (as long as the go pedal is telling it to keep going)
I think when the gov arm/ rack travel get to the rpm that matches the go pedal the arm pulls back a ways
if the load starts to bring the rpm lower than the go pedal says it should be the arm moves fwd against the plate and if the rpm keeps going down the arm will start to move down the plate (giving more rack travel)
Am I understanding how this works?
I just changed to a 16 housing and Im gonna go test drive it now.........
#6
well I ran the truck, and there was not much of a difference
I can tow a 12540 lb trailer at 75mph 2100 rpm 1100 deg and 20 psi boost
I did the arm adjustment and it was the same
ran it up to 80 and egt was 1200 25psi boost
what do you think???
I can tow a 12540 lb trailer at 75mph 2100 rpm 1100 deg and 20 psi boost
I did the arm adjustment and it was the same
ran it up to 80 and egt was 1200 25psi boost
what do you think???
#7
the boost pretty much tells u how much ur fueling since the boost reacting to fueling more than anything and ur boost numbers are fairly low...stock is like 18 psi if i remember.....dont quotye me on that i dont really remember the numbers
the way i understand the rack travel is...when u have the shut down solenoid in the Open/up position...the lever should be just touching the lip.tip of ur plate at least thats what it should be adjusted to....as u rev the lever rides up the plate along the groove of the plate (whatever the profile is)....oh yeah remember that ur defueling in the upper 3rd of that 10 plate.....make it a 100 plate and u'll be kickin it
the way i understand the rack travel is...when u have the shut down solenoid in the Open/up position...the lever should be just touching the lip.tip of ur plate at least thats what it should be adjusted to....as u rev the lever rides up the plate along the groove of the plate (whatever the profile is)....oh yeah remember that ur defueling in the upper 3rd of that 10 plate.....make it a 100 plate and u'll be kickin it
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#8
Im sure I could do mods for more fuel
but it seems I cant keep the egt down, so more fuel will not help
I have tried every thing with the combo I am runing
but while towing the egt gets crazy hot which makes the engine hot which makes me slow down
Im thinking real hard about puting the stock injectors back in and pushing the plate fwd
it seems as if the DD2's are making TO much heat to much for the pdr hx35 to cool off
also peak boost is 30 with the 16 housing and 32 with the 14
I changed to the 16 thinking that the drive pressure was to high?
but it seems I cant keep the egt down, so more fuel will not help
I have tried every thing with the combo I am runing
but while towing the egt gets crazy hot which makes the engine hot which makes me slow down
Im thinking real hard about puting the stock injectors back in and pushing the plate fwd
it seems as if the DD2's are making TO much heat to much for the pdr hx35 to cool off
also peak boost is 30 with the 16 housing and 32 with the 14
I changed to the 16 thinking that the drive pressure was to high?
#9
fill in ur sig by the way so i dont have to scroll up all the time to see what u have
whats ur timing set to?? lower timing will make ur egts rise...
16 housing is better than 14
ur gonna need a bigger turbo to keep egt's downhow big's ur downpipe(and exhaust)? running stock 3 inch pipe will choke it=high egts...keeping the cat on there doesnt help...
running a stock air box? change that for a scotty
im sure the guys can think of more stuff
whats ur timing set to?? lower timing will make ur egts rise...
16 housing is better than 14
ur gonna need a bigger turbo to keep egt's downhow big's ur downpipe(and exhaust)? running stock 3 inch pipe will choke it=high egts...keeping the cat on there doesnt help...
running a stock air box? change that for a scotty
im sure the guys can think of more stuff
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