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DIY Propane?

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Old 09-22-2005, 09:36 PM
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DIY Propane?

Anybody tried this home brew propane set up?

At the bottom of this page:

http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/toppage6.htm

What kind of power numbers would this set up make?

The "professional" kits are around $600. I have a regulator and tank. Any reason I shouldn't try this set up?
Old 09-23-2005, 12:28 AM
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The easiest way to do a home brew propane system is to use a model "J" propane regulator off a fork lift, triggered by a Hobbs pressure switch on the boost side of the turbo, and induced by vacuum from venturi effect of the pre-turbo air stream. It provides the right amount of fuel and can be run with either liquid or vapor. No other regulators are needed and the system is simple, safe, inexpensive, and works very well when done properly. A model "M" regulator will also work, but really is too large for a diesel application.

Although you can get more power, don't plan on using any more than 100 hp, at the most, off propane.
Old 09-23-2005, 07:31 AM
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In the above site for the DIY propane, has anyone else noticed the lack of an orifice??
The way it is set-up the propane will feed 4-7 psi thru a 1/4 inch hose.

Can you say WHAT a RIDE!!!!
Then the Head gasket and rod/pistons are left on the pavement!!!
Old 09-23-2005, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bart Timothy
The easiest way to do a home brew propane system is to use a model "J" propane regulator off a fork lift, triggered by a Hobbs pressure switch on the boost side of the turbo, and induced by vacuum from venturi effect of the pre-turbo air stream. It provides the right amount of fuel and can be run with either liquid or vapor. No other regulators are needed and the system is simple, safe, inexpensive, and works very well when done properly. A model "M" regulator will also work, but really is too large for a diesel application.
I assume a J regulator and Hobbs pressure switch can be picked up at a forklift parts/service shop? So it would be plumbed: tank/reg/hose/p-switch/hose/(orifice)to the intake? Is that right? I'd like to tap the air horn to feed the fuel instead of into the bhaf.

To j-fox's point, what about an orifice? Where do I get one and how big? As far as grenading the motor dieselminded says he's had good luck with this set up.

Can you feed pane at all times? Will affect idle speed? How much more boost will I see? With no wire tap I'm getting 27-28psi max. If this pushes boost to 37-38, maybe I won't need to tap the wire (yeah right )

I like the idea of propane because it says it'll help burn ALL the diesel. Maybe at low idle it won't spew smoke. I like smoke but I'd rather it be turned into power instead of going out the pipe.

Originally Posted by j-fox
In the above site for the DIY propane, has anyone else noticed the lack of an orifice??
The way it is set-up the propane will feed 4-7 psi thru a 1/4 inch hose.

Can you say WHAT a RIDE!!!!
Then the Head gasket and rod/pistons are left on the pavement!!!
Old 09-23-2005, 04:11 PM
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If you wanted to make it feed all the time you would want to reference boost and possibly throttle position. Because you wouldn't want to put in as much propane at WOT as you would at idle. This would be a very expensive setup and require a lot of testing to get it right. So most setups just inject once a certain boost pressure is reached to give you that extra hp and whatever else you get from it.
Old 09-23-2005, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by yarddog
I assume a J regulator and Hobbs pressure switch can be picked up at a forklift parts/service shop? So it would be plumbed: tank/reg/hose/p-switch/hose/(orifice)to the intake? Is that right? I'd like to tap the air horn to feed the fuel instead of into the bhaf.

To j-fox's point, what about an orifice? Where do I get one and how big? As far as grenading the motor dieselminded says he's had good luck with this set up.

Can you feed pane at all times? Will affect idle speed? How much more boost will I see? With no wire tap I'm getting 27-28psi max. If this pushes boost to 37-38, maybe I won't need to tap the wire (yeah right )

I like the idea of propane because it says it'll help burn ALL the diesel. Maybe at low idle it won't spew smoke. I like smoke but I'd rather it be turned into power instead of going out the pipe.
This system works exactly the same as the ATS system, which has been on the market for years. The theory of operation is entirely different from what's been discussed here - works the same as propane on a fork lift. The regulator is an Impco brand. You'll also need a 12 volt propane solinoid valve. You'll probably find the 2 to 3 pound Hobbs pressure switch at a specialty electrical supply.
Old 09-23-2005, 10:20 PM
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i like the propane idea. but it is a fuel that helps the diesel burn a little but but not alot. if ya all want power and have orings in the block or some other thing to help the head gasket out go with nitros. its very safe if used properly. the key to it is to make sure you have enough fuel to burn the nos so you dont hit lean conditions and burn down pistons. this is bad. i was running 150 shot on my truck it worked great. just keep your smoke black when you hit the button and you will be fine. i bought a dry nos kit on ebay for about 200$ and hit the selonoids in the fender so ya cant see them and put an activator switch in the glove box and wired the selonoids to the horn button and dissed the horn so it is very discreat. spray it right in the air filter and hang on tight! its great! just ask me for further info.
Old 09-24-2005, 01:14 AM
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I run both propane and water(only) injection to help cool things. Propane is set to come on at 8-10 lbs. boost and to tackle any grades the water injection comes on at 20 lbs. boost and full on at 26 lbs. boost. I swear my EGT's don't go over 1000. I have an 8 gallon tank of pane in the bed and while I use propane as my all around cruising supplement, I fill that tank up at every 8th fuel fill-up. Mileage is OK...nothing to write home about. Only gained about 1-1.25 mpg's. I average around 18.75 mpg. I tend to do the WOT thing a lot. Propane advice: listen close for signs of detonation and learn to sniff out the possible leaks that may arise from leaking hoses, fittings, and especially the IC plumbing, if you go with the intake hose injection route. ATS TP 2000 is a great set up. I find most all diesel hi-performance shops here in Sacramento tend to install this set up for propane injection. Personally, I would be patient and look for a used kit in the for sale ads...That's what I did...practically stole it.Why do a Flintstone job on your most precious investment?( next to your home) Carmyne
Old 09-24-2005, 06:38 AM
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To j-fox's point, what about an orifice? Where do I get one and how big? As far as grenading the motor dieselminded says he's had good luck with this set up.

Can you feed pane at all times? Will affect idle speed? How much more boost will I see? With no wire tap I'm getting 27-28psi max. If this pushes boost to 37-38, maybe I won't need to tap the wire (yeah right )

I like the idea of propane because it says it'll help burn ALL the diesel. Maybe at low idle it won't spew smoke. I like smoke but I'd rather it be turned into power instead of going out the pipe.[/QUOTE]

I'd say add an orifice to the inside of the hose in the air cleaner. Start with a 3/32 hole. you can drill itout if you need more later.
If you feed it at idle you will have problems. First, it won't idle but it will run fast. Remember, the idea is to supliment the diesel fuel tha isn't burned. Do you have a problem with spewing fuel at idle???
Old 09-24-2005, 11:08 AM
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My home built and the ATS systems don't have "orifices". The regulator handles how much propane is used according to the air flow coming into the turbo. They work on the same principle as a carburetor - the more air, ie increased boost and/or increased rpm, the more propane.

Have the propane start in at 1 to 2 lbs boost, keep the maximum allowed at the 50 hp level, and you can really enjoy some extra power and significantly improved diesel fuel milage without blowing up the engine.
Old 09-25-2005, 08:41 AM
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Ok, I may be wrong, but I don't see what the regulator references to if it is an open pipe. It looks like it would open up and run at full capacity.
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