designing traction/ladder bars
06-08-2006, 02:23 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Europe - Finland
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Computer assisted designing is thesedays within grasp of a hobbyist's budget.
I am using engine analyzer program by the company below. Among other things, it has helped me to design a tuning camshaft for a small German 4-banger diesel engine. The cam is ground up and installed in my friend's car. It works as software predicted.
I'd love to tinker with 4-links, only if my car would have them.
--
4-Link Calculator v2.0 for Windows 95/98/Me/XP/2000/NT
Computer Program to Simulate and Analyze Rear Suspension 4-Link Setups for Instant Center, Pinion Angle and Driveshaft Angle Change, Anti-Squat %, and More for Drag Racing
Please have a look here: Performance Trends Inc - 4 link analyzer
I am using engine analyzer program by the company below. Among other things, it has helped me to design a tuning camshaft for a small German 4-banger diesel engine. The cam is ground up and installed in my friend's car. It works as software predicted.
I'd love to tinker with 4-links, only if my car would have them.
--
4-Link Calculator v2.0 for Windows 95/98/Me/XP/2000/NT
Computer Program to Simulate and Analyze Rear Suspension 4-Link Setups for Instant Center, Pinion Angle and Driveshaft Angle Change, Anti-Squat %, and More for Drag Racing
Please have a look here: Performance Trends Inc - 4 link analyzer
06-08-2006, 04:29 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just built a set this past week. The frame end is about identical to your design GetBlown. I welded a bracket to the axle and made the standard one frame with two axle links. I also added some triangulation within the bars. I'll try and get some pictures up. I made them so they run close to the driveshaft angle, but closer to being parallel to the ground. I get zero binding with mine. I used heims at all 6 joints. The tubing was 1.25" and was 3/16" thick. With the triangulation I can't imagine how they would bend. If anything goes it will be a heim. I backed onto a rock and the rear can still articulate as much as the springs allow. I don't get the bounce when I back up a hill now, either. I'll try and get some pictures posted up.
06-09-2006, 12:44 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good picks JD, did you do the same type of bracket on the frame? I'm a little paranoid about welding on the frame due to warrenty issues. I was hoping to find a bolt on design but I guess it would be difficult with our U-Bolt design.
06-09-2006, 02:58 PM
#21
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Been deported back to Utah
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bhuffstutter
Good picks JD, did you do the same type of bracket on the frame? I'm a little paranoid about welding on the frame due to warrenty issues. I was hoping to find a bolt on design but I guess it would be difficult with our U-Bolt design.
06-10-2006, 01:44 AM
#23
So what exactly is it these things are supposed to do? Compensate for increased susceptibility to axle torque wrap due to the lift blocks?
I'm an old street racer from way back, and we used something now called Caltracs (commercialized by a fellow named Calvert who sells them from somewhere out in CA, I believe). But the good fabricators made their own something like this:
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
Not sure why you're welding bars to the frame creating binding problems and warranty issues when you could use a bell crank to accomplish the same thing with no binding and a pretty much straight bolt-on. Might not be right for extreme lifts, but otherwise???
A leaf sring is a leaf spring whether it is on a car or a truck, right? Or maybe I completely missed the point here, dunno...
I'm an old street racer from way back, and we used something now called Caltracs (commercialized by a fellow named Calvert who sells them from somewhere out in CA, I believe). But the good fabricators made their own something like this:
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
Not sure why you're welding bars to the frame creating binding problems and warranty issues when you could use a bell crank to accomplish the same thing with no binding and a pretty much straight bolt-on. Might not be right for extreme lifts, but otherwise???
A leaf sring is a leaf spring whether it is on a car or a truck, right? Or maybe I completely missed the point here, dunno...
06-10-2006, 11:45 AM
#24
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ill be welding a mounting bracket to the frame, which will have heim joints to still allow the bars to move, flex, and rotate without binding, but will eliminate the rotation of the axle tube and pinion angle, i have about 2 weeks to get them built while my clutch is being rebuilt and installed. i want the rear end to feel solid when i take off and not feel that vibration and slapping back there. im going to a much harsher clutch soon, and will start sled pulling this summer, i need to have these to prevent any broken driveshafts
06-12-2006, 02:19 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, finally got some pictures of mine. I was out of town for a bit of the weekend and then found out that Dad took the camera up north with him.... but they are in my gallery pending approval.
06-12-2006, 06:57 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BCB, no binding problems for me. The rear end can articulate as much as it wants to (not too much with the stock springs though!). I have no binding problems whatsoever.
Driverno, I know a couple people who just use one traction bar on their offroad jeeps, but I don't think it would be strong enough on our trucks.
I should add though, on my frame mouting bracket I broke my last 1/2" drill bit so there is one bolt missing per side. There is now 3 bolts on the side of the frame rail and 2 on the bottom of the frame. 5 - 1/2" grade 5 bolts per side should hold quite a bit.
Driverno, I know a couple people who just use one traction bar on their offroad jeeps, but I don't think it would be strong enough on our trucks.
I should add though, on my frame mouting bracket I broke my last 1/2" drill bit so there is one bolt missing per side. There is now 3 bolts on the side of the frame rail and 2 on the bottom of the frame. 5 - 1/2" grade 5 bolts per side should hold quite a bit.
06-12-2006, 10:29 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 1,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Crimedog
Ok, finally got some pictures of mine. I was out of town for a bit of the weekend and then found out that Dad took the camera up north with him.... but they are in my gallery pending approval.
